# The component video switching thread.



## btwyx

I'm sure this is going to be a common situation, with the arrival (currently imminent) of the HD DTiVo I will have a shortage of component video switching capability in the system.

My receiver has 2 component inputs, that seemed plenty at the time I bought it I had only one component video source, the DVD. Since then I've got a D-VHS and now the HD DTiVo. My display does component, not digital input.

Looking around I've found these likely candidates:

Audio Authority 1154 <http://www.audioauthority.com/aacconsumers/1154c.html>
Zektor HDS4 <http://www.zektor.com/hds4/index.htm>
Zektor HDS4.2 <http://www.zektor.com/hds42/index.htm>
Inday RGB4X-R <http://www.inday.com/rgb4x/rgb4x.htm>
Cables To Go 4 To 2 Matrix selector <http://www.cablestogo.com/product.asp?cat_id=2013&sku=40020>
Key Digital Swicthers KD-SW2X1, KD-SW4x1, KD-MSW8x3<http://www.keydigital.com/items.asp?Cc=300>
AV ToolBox AVT-5842(MX) <http://www.avtoolbox.com/routingpage.shtml>
Pelican component seletor switch. <http://www.pelicanperformance.com/index2.html>
Mad Catz Selector <http://www.madcatz.com/MadCatz/product_details.jsp?product_id=6132>
AVLinx AVS4.1 <http://www.avlinx.com/>
Video Storm CSM42 <http://www.video-storm.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CSM42>

And the JVC JXS line (no link to JVC, their web site is down, this link may not work) <http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/con...&b=193&Submit.x=8&Submit.y=7&shs=&ci=5727&ac=>

JVC JXS-111
JVC JXS-555
JVC JXS-777

All of these do more that just switch component video, which is what I want, they'll route audio as well. The JVC are full blown A/V switchers with S-Video and other inputs and outputs as well.

The AudioAuthority is completely automatic, it tries to devine which source you actually want to watch if more than one is present. There is a button on the front to override this, but there is no remote control. I think I really need a remote control, and I don't trust a peice of hardware to get this right.

The Zektor models look interesting, quite sleek (high WAF quitient). They are remotely controllable, they seem very flexible about what remote codes they respond to. You can have your remote learn their codes, or you can have the unit learn your remote's codes.

The JVC's vary from not remote controllable and quite inexpensive (JXS-111) to really over the top (JXS-777) the JSX-555 looks like a good compromise at a reasonable price (from B&H as above) but is really more than I'm looking for.

The "Pelican component selector switch" looks interesting, 8 inputs, inexpenise, but no IR control. Designed for gamers. Also does Ethernet (weird).

The mad Catz is also a gaming accessory, only 2 inputs, but only $30.

The Video Storm looks good, does switching and distribution to 2 displays, also learns any remote code. Wolfman1138 is raving about it, lists at $224.99

I'd like to hear comments from people living with these units, and hear about any options that I've missed.

Ideally I'd like something which is small inconspicuous, just switches component video, it doesn't have to have many inputs, and be not too expensive.

Edit: I just added the Inday to the list, thanks Doug. That looks about the sort of thing I'm looking for. Anyone using one of these?

Edit: 4/4 Add the cables to go 4 to 2 Matrix Selector. <http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb/showthread.php?postid=1853280#post1853280>

Edit 4/5 Add the link to key digital as mentioned by Barry Gordon. <http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb/showthread.php?postid=1854744#post1854744>. Prices I've found are 2x1 $129, 4x1 $299 and 8x3 $999.

Edit 4/9 Add AV Toolbox switcher as mentioned by tgibbs <http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb/showthread.php?postid=1866131#post1866131>

Edit 5/15 Add Pelican component selector switch as mentioned by gjp33usa <http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb/showthread.php?postid=1958838#post1958838>

Edit 5/30 Added URL for Pelican and Mad Catz.

Edit 6/27 add Video storm, as reviewed by Wolfman1138 <http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb/showthread.php?postid=2056209#post2056209>

Edit 8/23 Add link to AVLink, kngelv is looking for opinions. <http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb/showthread.php?postid=2176546#post2176546>

Edit 10/19 Add link to product page on Video Storm. CSM42 Reviewed by Wolfman1138 <http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb/showthread.php?postid=2303986#post2303986>


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## DTV TiVo Dealer

I love the Zektor switches. We have sold a very good volume of both models with very excellent customer feedback. 

The 4.2 switch is remote control controlled and has push buttons, as well as 2 outputs. Both switches can be used in reverse hook up, e.g. 2 in, 4 out or 4 in 2 out.

Zektor is an extremely fine company to work with from a dealer and end user perspective.

In summary, the only thing better than the quality products they build is the company themselves.


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## midas

Well I love my Zektor. It's been absolutely flawless. I can't speak about their customer service because I've never had a problem with the unit. 

I don't like the type to unit that does automatic switching. They rely on either only one unit being turned on at a time or, if more than one thing is active, whichever has the higher priority. That wouldn't work for me. Obviously, the Tivo is always on. So if I hooked up my Xbox with a higher priority, when I turned that one it would switch to the Xbox. Now, if I want to go back to Tivo for a short time, the only way to do it would be to get up and physically turn off the Xbox. As it is now I can just hit the remote, watch something on Tivo and go back to the Xbox when I feel like it without having to turn it off or on. 

Think about how you plan to use it and what the future may have instore before you spend the money on one that does the auto-switching. On the surface it sounds like a better (easier) way of doing things. But it's a lot less flexible.


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## ptrubey

Don't forget the LatencyZero - www.latencyzero.com - it switches 8 component video plus digital audio (coax and optical) with two outs. I use one in my system and it works fine.


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## midas

> _Originally posted by ptrubey _
> *Don't forget the LatencyZero - www.latencyzero.com - it switches 8 component video plus digital audio (coax and optical) with two outs. I use one in my system and it works fine. *


Wow, for $899 it should also do your dishes for you. And I thougth $299 was high for the Zektor.


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## dswallow

Inday also has some component 4:1 switchers and audio 4:1 switchers, IR controlled. They have splitters too if you just need to distribute the signal.

http://www.inday.com/

















$149 for the video switcher, $119 for the audio switcher.


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## markw

I have a Audio Authority on order but the Zektor is looking better all the time. I don't like the auto switching of the AA and have heard several complaints about it on here.


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## markw

One thing that made me go with AA is it appears to have no signal loss but now I'm wondering if that may be the case with the Zektor. It also appears to have no signal loss. Is that true?


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## genearch

Another vote for the Zektor.. I set up one in my sisters house and it has worked great


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## DTV TiVo Dealer

> _Originally posted by markw _
> *One thing that made me go with AA is it appears to have no signal loss but now I'm wondering if that may be the case with the Zektor. It also appears to have no signal loss. Is that true? *


No loss, 100 mHz bandwidth.


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## btwyx

I like the look of the Inday (thanks Doug), nice and small and discrete. I just Edited that into the post at the top. Does anyone use one of these?

The Latency zero looks like overkill at $900 and has BNC connectors.

I'd noticed that Value Electronics has the Zektor, I was considering using my 10% discount for it. The HDS4.2 is interesting for its extra buffered component output, If I ever wanted to send component somewhere else that would be useful. But its a bit more expensive than the HDS4.


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## turt

I got the AA to save $$ and I liked the idea of the autoswitching. It works well with one large exception. The autoswitching works by a "most recent signal" priority. Apparently cable and satellite boxes send packets of info continuously even when not on. This makes for a messy situation. I don't have my D* receiver going through the switcher. 

In addition to a couple component signals, I use it useful to convert from optical to coax and even send my vcr audio through it because my older receiver doesn't have many inputs.

If I had to do it over again, I'd probably go with the Zektor. It's a better build and gets rave reviews (as you've seen). I'll put up with my AA until I get a denon 3805 which has 3 component ins.


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## markw

I like the look of the Inday as well. I definitely want LR audio along with component though and it seems to rule that out. If I was just ordering without a doubt I'd go with Zektor but like I said I have a AA on the way to me now that should arrive Monday so I don't know if I should give that a try or maybe just return it and go with Zektor. It is a price jump but I think it would be worth it.


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## dswallow

I don't see myself needing one of these yet, but consider most A/V receivers... I have the almost-bottom-of-the-line Harman Kardon AVR-525. It's got piles of audio and video inputs, but only two video inputs that can have component connections. So by having a separate device able to switch the component video, I can still feed all the audio through the receiver directly. Then I just program my universal remote (MX-700 in my case) so that it controls not only the A/V receiver but also the component switcher and TV for each command meant to change what's displayed/heard.

Right now I don't need the extra inputs, since I sort of do this now using extra inputs available on the display itself. The remote is controlling both the A/V receiver and the display's input selector as necessary.

So I can understand why Inday would make a device that did not do anything but switch video. And they do have one that switches only audio. It'd make some sense if they had a third device that switched both, though, for people who need both; better I think to have one device being controlled if you can, rather than two.


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## Mr Pieces

I just got the Denon 3805 receiver about 2 weeks ago. The 2 main reasons for choosing this receiver were 3 sets of component in/1 out and video upsizing for the rare occasion I have to upconvert composite or S-Video to a component output. If you need a new receiver I would recommend this. Picked it up for $1000 ($1199 MSRP) Also has all the latest features like PLIIx, auto, EQ, etc.


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## hoby

> _Originally posted by Mr Pieces _
> *I just got the Denon 3805 receiver about 2 weeks ago. The 2 main reasons for choosing this receiver were 3 sets of component in/1 out and video upsizing for the rare occasion I have to upconvert composite or S-Video to a component output. If you need a new receiver I would recommend this. Picked it up for $1000 ($1199 MSRP) Also has all the latest features like PLIIx, auto, EQ, etc. *


Yeah, my Denon 4802 has the same setup and support for 480/720/1080. The funny part is I bought it for this purpose last year, and sorta forgot that I could use it for HD...  So I have only been using it for 480p on my DVD.


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## markw

I have a Yamaha 5280 and like so many receivers it only has the 2 component ins so that's why I'm out of inputs. I'd just need 3 and would be happy. I'd almost look into a new receiver now and the Denons actually have impressed me a lot but I also am hoping that receivers with HDMI are just around the corner (of course once again 3 inputs hopefully) and when that comes then I'll look into upgrading. I think some receivers already may offer this.


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## turt

HDMI may be "just around the corner" in the next year, but 3 inputs? You'll have to wait your turn. Look how long it took to get 3 component inputs. I can't see 3 HDMI inputs for at least a few years.


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## markw

I have seen some Denon receivers now and they seem to have a couple HDMI and they use 3 component but I know this will be expensive at first and as well it will take awhile for 3 HDMI's. I was going to get one with DVI but then I heard about HDMI and I think most are skipping DVI and going straight to HDMI. I'm interested in seeing how most work. What I mean is if I run a HDMI cable to a TV can I then buy a cable that goes from HDMI to an output of DVI and then a optical audo or LR audio cables. I hope that made sense. As well, I know the if you only have Component into a receiver for example you can only output Component from that DVD player or whatever unit and not S-Video but if I'm right that is changing and some will convert video. Once again expensive and it's amazing how many inputs some of these receivers have but you can never have too many.


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## uofmtiger

I have the AA, but if I was in the market for one now I would get the Zektor. I rarely have the auto switching conflicts that others have, but why worry about it when you don't have to. Besides, who knows if I will buy something in the future that does create more conflicts?


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## CountXavier

I also have the AA. Not a fan of the unit. I DO have the auto switching problems! The build quality is not that great either. I've had this unit for about a year and a half. It does the trick, but sometimes will switch just for the sake of switching. This, of course, interrupts whatever you're watching at the time. I'll deal with it for now unit I can get my hands on a Harman Kardon AVR7300!


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## SmackDaddy

I have an Inday, works flawlessly.


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## chuckkay

I just got this from cables to go for $119
I love it.
4 in 2 out component & audio L/R with remote
Video Inputs: 4 Component Video Female 
Video Outputs: 2 Component Video Female 
Audio Inputs: 4 Dual Channel RCA Female 
Audio Outputs: 2 Dual Channel RCA Female 
Multiple configurations- any input can be routed to any output independently

4 to 2 COMPONENT VIDEO MATRIX SELECTOR


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## sangs

I've had almost all of them. Seriously. I also had a Key Digital one that is no longer made. My favorite (by far) was the Zektor, for all the reasons already noted. I recently sold it only because I let my A/V receiver do component switching for two sources (DVD/Gamecube) and my current DirecTV HD box, soon to be replaced by the HD Tivo, runs directly to the TV. I had no need for another input since ditching Comcast. But Zektor is the way to go. The AA worked great, but lost big style points to the Zektor. Oh and as customer service, I dealt with Zektor's several times and they were fantastic. I got in on an Inday model when they were first offered a couple years ago and the model I purchased introduced ringing into the source material. Not sure if that's still the case. A lot of people swear by those also.


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## mtnbkr1

I can vouch for the AA1154 - I haven't heard of, nor experienced, any of the complainets listed here. I do like the automatic switching, and I don't need a remote. Rates very high on the WAF, as she no longer needs to remember to set the amp to different signals.

For those having trouble with the unit switching - hae you tried moving your cables around? In otherwords, if you are contiuously watching something (like HDTiVo) then that input should be * last *.


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## JTAnderson

I have to add another vote against the AA-1154. I happily used one with an X-Box, DVD Player and DTC-100 for several months, but when I added my HTPC to the mix there was no longer any configuration that would auto-switch correctly. Bought the HDS4 and love it.

One thing you must consider is audio switching. The Inday was not an option for me because I also wanted digital audio switching. Both the Zector and AA switches have that (along with optical/coax conversion).


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## barrygordon

I use the KDS (Key Digital Systems) 4x1 Component switcher (MSW4X1 Ithink). It is unique in that it is a 4 to 1 High bandwidth unit that has 6 high bandwidth channels for each input that are switched in sync which can be used for whatever you want, RGBVH+S/PDIF; Component +analog Audio +S/PDIF etc. It does no transcoding and has no Toslink inputs. It is small (1U), has an IR remote and a simple RS232 protocol for tight integration. Units can be cascaded


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## btwyx

> _Originally posted by barrygordon _
> *I use the KDS (Key Digital Systems) 4x1 Component switcher (MSW4X1 Ithink). *


 I just added a link to these to the head post.

I notice they do several version, the cheapest is 2 inputs only and does auto switching, with a manual override, no IR remote.

The 4x1 switcher does have IR remote.

The 8x3 is looks a bit over the top for most people and uses BNC connectors.


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## alk3997

I also have the AA 1154. Like CountXavier, my 1154 also automatically switches even when input sources haven't changed. I explained the situation to AA back in January 2003. They said they understood the problem and were working on a fix.

I just got an email stating that they will have the new parts that fix the problem towards the end of this month (April 2004). The problem is EMI - through air (not through the wiring) causing the switching circuit to activate. My 1154 changes when a refrigerator motor in the next room starts/stops, which supports AA's analysis.

Anyway, the bad news is that it has taken 15+ months to get a fix. The good news is that they are still going to make the fix under warranty. Of course this assumes that the parts actually come in.

My suggestion for anyone who is experiencing auto-switching problems with the 1154 is to wait until the end of April and then call AA for a resolution to the problem.


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## aaronwt

I've had the INDAY video switcher for a couple of years. It was $200 when I got it and they didn't have a remote version. They upgraded mine to be remote capable for a small fee. It has worked very well. I use it with the AA audio swicher. The auto switing has worked great. I've used this for several years and never had any problems. When using, you just have to decide which component has priority. When I had my DST 3000 it put out a signal even when the receiver was off, so I had to make it the lowest priority(All the other devices connected to the AA has to be off to hear sound from the lowest priority component) When I got the SAmsung 360, it's optical out isn't active when the box is off, so I was able to move the AA priority up. Hopefully the HD-Tivo won't have an active optical out when it is in standby mode. Anyway it has worked very well for me. i also have a hiPix card connected to it and a Denon 2200.


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## dtle

For those who want to go really cheap, you can get a regular A/V Selector from Radio Shack. It has 4 inputs, and each input has three RCA connectors that can be used as components. There are 4 manual buttons in the front. I've been using this for my HD sources for over a year.


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## lars158

I have just ordered this one :





With this matrix switch I can distribute all my component video and PCM audio sources (incl the HDTIVO) to my 3 different HDTV locations. A bit on the expensive side but still a great way to have flexible AV distribution.


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## lars158

> _Originally posted by lars158 _
> *I have just ordered this one :
> 
> With this matrix switch I can distribute all my component video and PCM audio sources (incl the HDTIVO) to my 3 different HDTV locations. A bit on the expensive side but still a great way to have flexible AV distribution. *


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## lars158

> _Originally posted by lars158 _


Sorry... here's the link : http://www.digitalconnection.com/Products/Video/kdmsw8x3.asp


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## btwyx

> _Originally posted by lars158 _
> *I have just ordered this one : *


 You should tell us how well it works.


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## lars158

> _Originally posted by btwyx _
> *You should tell us how well it works. *


I will have it installed on Thursday/Friday, so I'll send an update by end of the week... I have high expectations!


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## PerfKnee

Another idea that I haven't verified but have heard:

Buy a PC KVM switch. This is a switch designed to allow multiple computers to be used from a single keyboard, mouse, and monitor. You might have to plug the keyboard and mouse from your PC into it to power it, but you should be able to run component video sources into the HD15 input jacks with the appropriate adapters, putting the 3 component signals through the R, G, B lines. Then the HD15 output can be sent to your component display. 

An advantage of this approach is that if your display has the ability to switch a single input connector between component and RGBHV, you can plug both component sources (e.g. DVD, HDTV tuner) as well as RGBHV (computer etc) into the same switch. Of course you'll have to switch the input on the projector remote between component and RGBHV but it can work.

Personally I already have one of those radio shack composite/audio switchers and I'm going to give it a try because if it happens to work that would be great.


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## subcook

> _Originally posted by PerfKnee _
> *
> Personally I already have one of those radio shack composite/audio switchers and I'm going to give it a try because if it happens to work that would be great. *


This is what I do also. I hook my HD box straight to my TV then have my Progressive scan DVD player and PS2 hooked up through an old composite switch (not powered if that matters). Works great because I barely play the PS2 and the switch was _free_ because I was no longer using it for its original purpose!

Andrew


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## CountXavier

Funny...I contacted AA about 6 months ago and they spoke to me like I didn't know how to use the unit. I'll be playing XBOX on #3 and it will switch to TIVO on #4. I guess because the TiVo is a constant? Well, thanks alk3997 for the info. The unit does have plenty of inputs and without the malfunction of switching when not warranted, it would be pretty decent. I'll have to give them a call in a few weeks.


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## johanlavon

I currently have a Denon AVR-4802R A/V Receiver which has 3 component inputs. I am using one for my DVD right now and have VOOM running directly into my 1080i Input on my Mitsubishi WS-65819 TV. I have my HD-Tivo on order and plans to run VOOM and my HDTivo through the remaining 2 component inputs on my Denon AVR-4802R.

According to Denon's website, the AVR-4802R is capable of the following:

- 3 sets component video inputs, compatible with wideband (480p, 720p, 1080i) response for progressive DVD, DTV (50 MHz bandwidth).

Should this work for HDTV? Is 50MHZ enough? It seems as if the Zektor has 100MHZ bandwidth. Will 50MHZ bandwidth affect my picture quality??

Thanks for your help.
Johan


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## PerfKnee

50Mhz is marginal... it's probably enough but it's possible that you'll lose just a small amount of sharpness at 720p or perhaps 1080i. Certainly you should try your receiver... hook the STB up through the receiver and direct and compare, switching back and forth a few times by changing the plugs. If you can't tell the difference then enjoy the receiver.


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## dswallow

Here's a good collection of information, including some mention of all the conflicting things said about it and how there's a little more to it than just making sure the equipment the signal passes through supports the necessary video bandwidth: http://members.aol.com/ajaynejr/bandwid.htm



> NTSC Broadcast and VHS: 4.2 MHz
> 
> Laser Disk: 5.3 MHz
> 
> Regular NTSC DVD: 7 (6.8) MHz
> 
> Progressive Scan NTSC DVD and 480p DTV: 13.5 MHz
> 
> 1080i HDTV: 37 MHz; in practice with 22 MHz the picture is still very superb.
> 
> 720p HDTV; 37 MHz.


If you read through the above link, you'll understand why there's not a simple answer. But all things considered, 50MHz bandwidth on your component video switching circuit is probably going to be just fine. More is always better, but more isn't a guarantee you'll notice anything different in the displayed image. One thing's probably for certain: having less bandwidth than what is needed most definitely can impact the image. Not necessarily "will," as in the case of 1080i or 720p signals where the signal could have more detail than your display can reproduce, but "can."


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## btwyx

> _Originally posted by dswallow _
> *Here's a good collection of information, including some mention of all the conflicting things said about it and how there's a little more to it than just making sure the equipment the signal passes through supports the necessary video bandwidth: http://members.aol.com/ajaynejr/bandwid.htm*


 An interesting link. I particularly like the idea of feeding the luma signal through all three component switches to test the overall loss. I've been looking at the resolution (broom) patterns, I even have 720p DVE to generate a good one. But I've been thinking i was only testing the luma rather than the chroma channels. (As the pattern is black and white.)

Now I know how to torture test the Inday when it arrives. The Inday has some supposed test results on their site which make it look like it should be good.


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## Paul_D

> _Originally posted by alk3997 _
> I just got an email stating that they will have the new parts that fix the problem towards the end of this month (April 2004). The problem is EMI - through air (not through the wiring) causing the switching circuit to activate. My 1154 changes when a refrigerator motor in the next room starts/stops, which supports AA's analysis.


Duoh! I just ordered an AA 1154 earlier this week and it'll be sitting about 5-6 feet from my washer and dryer. I can imagine the EMI kick from either of those will cause some issues.

Oh well. I didn't want to fork over the money for the Zektor, and my wife already has enough trouble understanding the 7:1 JVC s-video switch I use. I looked at trying to get something that combined the two, but the price was waaay too much. Plus I needed a toslink to coax conversion as my A/V receiver is out of digital inputs already...


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## mchaney

Just to add another data point... I've been using the AA 1154 for 3+ months and it has never once suffered a switching glitch. It works perfectly for me as I normally only keep one thing on at a time and even if I don't (because I'm recording something on D-VHS), I can turn the component that I want to watch off and back on to switch over to it.

I like having one box that takes care of all the video and audio. Because my plasma is over the fireplace and isn't in the same line of site as the components, and because I often have a toddler or two jumping between me and the components, I'd have to stand up and swing the remote around like the Star Wars Kid with it spitting out as many codes as would be needed to control that stuff (both video and audio) manually... and it'd *still* probably get out of sync from time to time.

Mike


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## alk3997

Let me clarify a bit on the EMI pulse response for the AA1154...

First, all of the inputs on the 1154 are used. The fourth position input is for a box that always sends a video signal even when it is "off". The other three (slots 1 through 3) disable their video outputs when off.

When a big motor (refrigerator, sometimes the AC) kicks in or out, the 1154, if in automatic switching mode, will move up or down one input. If the input has video, you'll see that video, if not my monitor indicates it has lost sync. After about a second (maybe a little more), the input goes right back to the correct location and then the monitor resyncs on the video. So you don't have to do anything to get back to the "correct" input, just wait.

The overall effect is loss of video (and digital audio) for about a second to two seconds. Of course being EMI it isn't consistent. 9 times out of 10 everything is fine. Of course it is usually when you are in the middle of a good movie that the switch occurs. 

Hopefully I only have to live with this minor annoyance for another month. (I can hope)


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## Jim Christian

I got my Zektor on-sale at www.ebaystores.com/hdtvsupply


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## btwyx

My Inday arrived today, and is now integrated into the system. Its a lot smaller than I thought it was going to be, its nestling on its side next to my Yamaha receiver. Its shorter than the receiver is tall.

It also seems to perform well, I tried the resolution torture test, feeding the luma signal through all three paths at once. I could see no difference in the resolution pattern (720p) over feeding it straight to the display. Its an ED display, so that's not too difficult.


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## Chris Gerhard

The specifications for my receiver, a Yamaha HTR-5490, indicate 60Mhz bandwidth for the two component inputs. My monitor has 2 also so I will have 3 total component inputs which is plenty for me for the foreseeable future since I also have 1 DVI for a total of 4 HDTV inputs. Should I be concerned about anything? A Samsung HDTV STB, HDTV TiVo, D-VHS VCR and DVD player are my sources to use the inputs, the only planned change is to replace one with an HDTV DVD player in a few years when those are a reality. So far nothing HDTV is going right for me.

Chris


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## Will-san

Someone made a comment over on AVS that the Inday had wacky remote codes and they had a hard time getting it to work with their universal remote. BTWYX you are a pronto guy right? any issues? any one else have any issues with the Inday and a universal remote?


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## btwyx

> _Originally posted by Will-san _
> *Someone made a comment over on AVS that the Inday had wacky remote codes and they had a hard time getting it to work with their universal remote. BTWYX you are a pronto guy right? any issues?*


 The Pronto sucessfully learnt the codes last night. It took a very long time to learn, but it did manage it. This is with the very latest firmware, which takes a long time to learn codes.

I just finished editing things into my .pcf file, Inday supply a .ccf which I imported. I'll know how well that works when I get home this evening. If that doesn't work I should always be able to learn the buttons instead.


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## btwyx

I notice the manual for the Zektor says it can learn a code to use to switch inputs. I thought an elegant way of doing it would be to get it to learn your receiver's codes for its different inputs. That way you'd just send the command to the receiver to change input and the Zektor would listen and switch as well. You wouldn't have to change your remote setup at all.

Does that work? Has anyone tried that?

Just curious, as I just got an Inday.


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## Will-san

I just ordered the Inday. The Zektor is a better looking box (better looking and more features) but I couldn't justify the cost given that it is just a stop gap until I find a receiver I like.


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## btwyx

> _Originally posted by Will-san _
> *Someone made a comment over on AVS that the Inday had wacky remote codes and they had a hard time getting it to work with their universal remote. BTWYX you are a pronto guy right? any issues? any one else have any issues with the Inday and a universal remote? *


The .ccf file Inday supply for their remote works with no problems as well. If there are problems, I'm not seeing them with a Pronto 3000 and the latest firmware (firmware as of 2 weeks ago).


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## aaronwt

It works fine with my TSU6000. I've been using it for 1.5 years without any problems.


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## oosik77

> _Originally posted by mchaney _
> *Just to add another data point... I've been using the AA 1154 for 3+ months and it has never once suffered a switching glitch. *


Ditto for me!


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## Bodie

*If* AA does in fact take care of the EMI problem (I'll confirm that they've said they would) then I would certainly recommend it.

I have an XBOX, PS2, DVD and HD DTV box connected (which leaves a free input on the back of the TV  ). The auto switching works fine because none of these have an output when they are off. It is actually the auto-switching that brings back the good signal when the EMI spuriously switches to another input. (Mine is too close to the refrigerator)

I ran a test to see how it would work if they didn't by leaving one turned on while trying others out and that worked well too, it would select the most-recently activated device and then revert back the always-on signal when it was shut off. (I didn't play with priority to see if there were two signals on and a third switched on and off which it would go to, but I imagine that's where the priority comes into play.)


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## btwyx

> _Originally posted by Bodie _
> * The auto switching works fine because none of these have an output when they are off.*


 I can't see how this would work for me, its not uncommon for me to switch sources without turning them off. But it doesn't matter, I got the Inday.


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## tgibbs

The AVTools AVT5842 ($150) switches 4 component inputs to dual outputs. Only problem is that it only switches stereo audio, not digital. It comes with a remote. Radio shack sells a digital switcher for about $100 that switches digital audio (6 inputs) but only s-video. It has no remote but will learn any remote signal. I use these two together.


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## btwyx

> _Originally posted by tgibbs _
> *The AVTools AVT5842 ($150) switches 4 component inputs to dual outputs.*


 Thanks, I just added them to the list. They look a bit ugly in bright green, do you have a wife to object to that?

[RANT] On a personal note, I'm none too happy with AV ToolBox, I got a PAL/NTSC format converter from them which did a really terrible job of frame rate conversion* I emailed their tech support about this, and never got a response. Some of this is my own fault for not following up, but being ignored never makes be feel wanted.[/RANT]

They do however explain something that's been bothering me. What's the difference between YPrPb and YCrCb, component inputs are marked with both and I never knew why there are 2 different names. The abve link explains Px is for prgressive inputs (480p, 720p) and Cx is for interlaced (480i, 1080i).

*If you want to convert PAL (25i) to NTSC (30i) you need to convert 5 fields into 6 fields. Their converter did this by dropping every 5th PAL field then doubling every other of the resultant fields. So if you start with fields 1,2,3,4,5 you end up with 1,2,2,3,4,4. This flickers like crazy and gives me a headache, its the lamest idea anyone could ever think of.


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## Paperboy2003

Simplistically, I want to take the output from my HD 200 and use it to power a few TVs. At least one will be HD. I don't need to spend a ton of money on this b/c it's the kids tv's and the TV's in my basement. Which route would you think I should go. A splitter or one of these 'fancy' boxes?

thanks

Doug


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## btwyx

> _Originally posted by Paperboy2003 _
> *Simplistically, I want to take the output from my HD 200 and use it to power a few TVs. At least one will be HD. I don't need to spend a ton of money on this b/c it's the kids tv's and the TV's in my basement. Which route would you think I should go. A splitter or one of these 'fancy' boxes? *


 What sort of connection do you want to use for all these TV sets?

This is really a different question than this thread is discussing. What you want to do is take one TV signal and send it to several TVs. This thread is about taking several component video sources and connecting them all to one TV, so the TV will display one of them at a time.

If you were wanting to send component video to all your TVs one of the matrix swicthers mentioned in the first post would probably do this for you, you'd need to find one with as many outputs as you have TVs. (Ie if you have 3 TVs, the 8x3 switcher would do it.)

Howerever this does not sound like what you want to do. What you don't want to do is use a passive "splitter". You can not just split a video signal and expect it to be the same after you've split it. You need a "distribution amplifier" for this, this takes one video signal, and turns it into several indipendent video ssignals, so the question becomes what sort of video signal do you want to send to these extra TVs? You have the choice of composite, S-Video, Component (the subject of this thread) and DVI/HDMI (and Component and DVI are not active at the same time). You should be aware that if you're watching HD, you don't get S-Video or composite.

For long range distribution, RF (coax) is quite often used, but this unit does not have an RF output. You can get an RF modulator to turn the composite output into RF, but again that would not be active whenever you're watching HD on one the TVs. You can use a simple "splitter" for directing RF output.


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## Paperboy2003

Thanks...I wasn't sure if I was in the right place but your info is great. I think what I'm going to be looking at is to take the output from my HD200 and power one HDtv and at the beginning at least one SD tv. I'd want to use componet video for the HD set and perhaps just regular coax or perhaps something else for the SD set. It's a work in progress right now (in my head) and I'd just like to figure it all out before I go buying add'l sets

Thanks

Doug


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## btwyx

I also noticed you're saying "HD200", what's one of those?

I've been thinking about HD DTiVos, which is what this forum is about.


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## mdryja

One issue that some people may be concerned about and that hasn't been addressed here yet is having rs232 control of the component video switching. I'm only aware of two that do this, the Zektor hds4.2 unit (an extra $100 add on), and the Key Digital units. However, the manual that you can download from KD doesn't give the protocol for switching via rs232, and I never received a response to an email to them regarding this. That effectively leaves the Zektor. I have my HD Tivo on order, and will be using a Zektor to switch between DVD and HD Tivo -- and will also be adding a DVD jukebox too. I have a HTPC that controls inputs and outputs of everything, and much prefer rs232 instead of IR when having the PC controlling stuff.


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## tgibbs

It can sometimes be useful to have multiple outputs from your switchbox even if you have only one TV. For example, my TV has separate component inputs for 480i and 480p (and up) signals. This can be a problem with devices that switch on the fly between interlaced and progressive/HD, such as my XBox. Also, all my TV's line-doubling/interpolation features only work for the 480i input. I'm not sure at this point which will do a better job of upconverting 480i signals, HDTivo or my TV. Having dual outputs from my switchbox should let me go either way without switching connections.


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## Paperboy2003

Sorry....I'm getting an HD TIVO from VE, but I might decide to use my old Sony HD200 (my current box) to drive the other TV's.


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## pinballfan

Chalk up one more in support of the Inday... 

I bought mine back in January in anticipation of the HD Tivo. Currently it has my Sony HD-100 and a progressive scan DVD player hooked up. I didn't have any problem learning the remote codes on my Proto (TSU2000). So far I am quite pleased with the purchase. I don't see any degredation in picture quality (although I know in theory there must be some...)

I run audio through a Radio Shack A/V switcher (model 15-1987 or 150-1987, the former is on my box, the latter I found in a doc search on their website). It has six inputs and 2 outputs, each includes an optical connection (and the usual R/L/V/S-vid which I don't use). It learns codes to control which input it switches to. It was only $100 and seems to have been the best deal out there. Unfortunately it has been discontinued. I saw one at a local store recently so folks might get lucky if they check their local store.

-- Doug


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## nabsltd

> _Originally posted by mdryja _
> *One issue that some people may be concerned about and that hasn't been addressed here yet is having rs232 control of the component video switching.*


You are better off buying a UIRT-USB and using something like Girder as the control. This would allow one inexpensive peripheral to control a wide variety of devices, including things that would never have RS-232 inputs.

It also keeps you from having to add a lot of serial ports and run a bunch of wires to multiple devices.


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## alk3997

An update on the Audio Authority 1154 - I'm still awaiting the replacement unit (described as the 1154A) to fix the EMI problem that causes the 1154 to randomly jump inputs when nearby motors (refrigerators, compressors, etc) start. It appears my replacement is now scheduled for the end of May (this is 16 months after originally reporting the problem).

The disturbing part is that it turns out there are 1154A's becoming available but the first batch is not going out to those of us who have reported 1154 issues. I assume they are going out to new customers instead. It is the second batch that will be used for replacement units.

So, if someone still wants this headache of a unit despite this problem, I suggest they order an 1154A and not an 1154, just to be sure. To be somewhat fair, the 1154 is still the only component switcher that you don't need a remote for it to switch properly most of the time (without getting up - yawn!).


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## alk3997

I received a new AA 1154A switcher last week. So far the results are very positive with no random switching. I'll post more after I put a few more miles on the 1154A's odometer.


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## ChrisW6ATV

> _Originally posted by PerfKnee _
> *Another idea that I haven't verified but have heard:
> 
> Buy a PC KVM switch. This is a switch designed to allow multiple computers to be used from a single keyboard, mouse, and monitor. You might have to plug the keyboard and mouse from your PC into it to power it, but you should be able to run component video sources into the HD15 input jacks with the appropriate adapters, putting the 3 component signals through the R, G, B lines. Then the HD15 output can be sent to your component display.
> 
> An advantage of this approach is that if your display has the ability to switch a single input connector between component and RGBHV, you can plug both component sources (e.g. DVD, HDTV tuner) as well as RGBHV (computer etc) into the same switch. Of course you'll have to switch the input on the projector remote between component and RGBHV but it can work. *


I am doing exactly this, with infrared control as well. For the keyboard, I installed the receiver part of an Airboard, then I taught my Pronto the 'hotkey' combinations for the four inputs. My Infocus X1 projector does its own auto-switching between RGB and component modes, so even that part is 'automatic'.

But, here is the catch... KVM switches are made to pass video and not sync through their R, G, and B pins, and thus they may have a problem passing the 'Y plus sync' signal. The KVM switch I used, a Linksys 4-input one, seemed to work quite well-I carefully looked at black levels and contrast, etc. with and without the switch and there was no difference. Then, I watched a Discovery HD show (Santa Monica Mountains?), and when it had a 'fade-to-white' scene change, the projector lost sync! Since it was the HD Tivo, I could replay the scene over and over, and it happened every time. Without the KVM switch, the projector was fine. There may be some that will not have this problem-and if anyone knows of one, I would like to hear about it.


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## Mark Rubin

> _Originally posted by mdryja _
> *One issue that some people may be concerned about and that hasn't been addressed here yet is having rs232 control of the component video switching. I'm only aware of two that do this, the Zektor hds4.2 unit (an extra $100 add on), and the Key Digital units. However, the manual that you can download from KD doesn't give the protocol for switching via rs232, and I never received a response to an email to them regarding this. *


I use the Key Digital 8x3 Flash Matrix Switcher controlled by RS232: it involves a simple string command:

e.g. to switch input 1 to output 3, and input 2 to output 4, the command string is cc13cc24 (my RS232 system is one way so it is easy) There is a short section in the manual on RS232

The Key switcher is very fast, glitchfree, broadcast quality


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## gjp33usa

I have a Pelican component seletor switch. It has 8 component hookups and I love it. You can also hook your computer up to it also. You can get it at Gamestop for $79.00 dollars now.


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## kdonnel

> _Originally posted by ChrisW6ATV _
> *when it had a 'fade-to-white' scene change, the projector lost sync! *


Over on AVS there is a thread discussing the X1 sync issue.

Basically some combinations of equipment cause the X1 to lose sync with bright write scenes. Infocus has issued a firmware fix that includes an option that has helped some.

As for me I lose sync about 50% of the time during the opening to the Soprano's. Some times I can reproduce it and other times not.


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## btwyx

> _Originally posted by gjp33usa _
> *I have a Pelican component seletor switch. It has 8 component hookups and I love it. You can also hook your computer up to it also. You can get it at Gamestop for $79.00 dollars now. *


 Is that IR controllable? and do you have a pointer to any information or suppliers?


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## gjp33usa

> _Originally posted by btwyx _
> *Is that IR controllable? and do you have a pointer to any information or suppliers? *


www.gamestop.com has them for $99.00 dollars on their website but you can get them in their store for $79.00 dollars. Go to their site and type in the search window selector and it should show it to you and you can read all about it. No IR Control though that`s the only problem I have with it.


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## barrygordon

I use the KDS 4x1 which is a 4 port component switch. What is nice about that unit is that it really is a 6 channel high bandwith 4x1 switch. You can decide to use the 6 channels any way you want. I generally use Component RGB + Digital Audio + Analog left and Analog Right. You just need to be consistent. It switches through IR (Remote provided) and RS232 via a very simple sequence. Also they can be cascaded so with two units you get 7x1. I also have a little driver demo program for the RS232 port written in VB that anyone who wants can have. I will release source so you can look at how simple it is. Drop me a PM.


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## alk3997

One last update on the AA 1154A. I've had it for a couple of weeks of use and it has performed as advertised. The switching system stays on the selected input even when the large motors in the house start or stop. 

The switching priority is very similar to the 1154, but you have the option to exclude inputs from automatic switching. So, if you don't want the switching to be based on input #3's analog audio input, then you can exclude just the analog audio (or the digital audio or the video input). For those who have never used an 1154A (or 1154), the primary method for switching to a different input device is to power-on the device, the 1154A then auto-switches to that device.

Bottom line is I'm now a pleased customer. I would purchase another 1154A if I needed an addition switcher. BTW, the outside box packaging and the black electronics case say "1154A" on the updated model. If you do not see 1154A, you have an 1154.


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## btwyx

I thought I'd update things. I've been living with the Inday swicther for a couple of months and the HD TiVo for about 5 weeks. Its working great with no problems.

I have the Inday power plugged into one of the switched power sockets on the back of my receiver, so it only comes on when the recevier is also on. (Which is anytime I watch anything, the recever does all the sound.) It power up defaults to the input the TiVo is attached to (this is configurable), so if it did manage to miss a code it'd probably be on the right input, but I've never noticed it miss a code.

The Inday is sucessfully programmed into my Pronto (TSU-3000), I now have a logical switch device which does my A/V switching for me, it sends codes for both the receiver and the Inday when ever its asked for a specific source. It works so well, I've basically forgotten the box exists.

The only problem I have with my setup is ocassionally the display misses the code to switch to component input on power up. (From the Pronto's power on macro.) That of course has nothing to do with the Inday its self, only the display. I need to change the power on default on the display, it almost never gets fed anything which is not component.


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## elspankdog

Have you tried increasing the delay between codes on the macro or further separation of the codes for display power on and display component input in order to give the display time to power on before switching the input? That's the simple solution that I'm sure you've already tried, but I thought I would throw it out there.

Brian


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## balboa dave

> _Originally posted by btwyx _
> *I'm sure this is going to be a common situation, with the arrival (currently imminent) of the HD DTiVo I will have a shortage of component video switching capability in the system.
> 
> My receiver has 2 component inputs, that seemed plenty at the time I bought it I had only one component video source, the DVD. Since then I've got a D-VHS and now the HD DTiVo. My display does component, not digital input.
> 
> *


I just caught this thread, and it's already gone far past where I can help, especially since you have a solution you're pleased with. So I hope that you can respond to my question.

I was going to suggest the you just put your D-VHS in between the HD DTiVo and your receiver, but that seemed so obvious that I did a search, and came up with this model: HM-DH40000 D-VHS HDTV Recorder. Is this what you have? From the data sheets, there is no component video or digital audio inputs! Is that true with your model? Wouldn't that hamstring it's capabilities?


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## btwyx

I probably have. It happens only very rarely, and is probably due to the IR being obscured, rather than the display not accepting a code. The display takes about 2 sec after power on, before it accepts the code, I have to make sure the pronto is still pointing at the display, and I haven't put it down in the meantime.


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## btwyx

> _Originally posted by balboa dave _
> *I was going to suggest the you just put your D-VHS in between the HD DTiVo and your receiver, but that seemed so obvious that I did a search, and came up with this model: HM-DH40000 D-VHS HDTV Recorder. Is this what you have? From the data sheets, there is no component video or digital audio inputs! Is that true with your model? Wouldn't that hamstring it's capabilities? *


 I've got the 30k model, and it doesn't have component or digtial audio inputs either. I wouldn't want to do that anyway, because of problems with signal degradation and I don't want to have to have the D-VHS on all the time.

This model will really only record HD from the FireWire port. It'll only record already encoded HD. It does quite a good job encoding SD itself.


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## balboa dave

I have yet to make the leap into HD, so this is invaluable info. Thanks for feedback!


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## alk3997

Balboa Dave, you fell for a common misconception on current HD recorders...none of them have component video inputs (nor digital audio inputs). The reason is that you couldn't do anything with the inputs other than pass them through to the outputs. Let me try to explain...

When an HD OTA picture arrives at your receiver the data rate is 19.2 mbps. This is a compressed MPEG2 digital stream. The receiver then takes this stream and sends it to the video monitor. To do this, the stream is either brought into the analog world (component video) or into the uncompressed digital world (HDMI). It can also stay compressed to the TV by sending out a IEEE-1394 stream to the TV. The TV would then uncompress and display the data. Mitsubishi TVs can use this method.

What does this have to do with anything recorder-wise? Well, once uncompressed the amount of data is greater than 1 gbps (I've heard HMDI is around 500 mbps or so). This is far greater data rate than any consumer recorder can handle (if the DVD recorder could keep up, it would fill a 4.8GB DVD in slightly over 25 seconds). 

One answer is to compress the data. Unfortunately there is no consumer real-time MPEG2 high definition encoder than can handle this data rate either. There are some very expensive professional units that can do this function.

So the way HD is currently recorded in the home is by recording the original 19.2 mbps compressed stream. This is done by using a IEEE-1394 bus to transfer data from the receiver to the recorder and then storing the same bits that come into the receiver prior to any uncompression. 

Back to your question...What that means is that there is no need for a component video input for high definition recording. You can't do anything with the input. Perhaps in a few years/decades as processors and storage devices get faster, but not now.

The digital audio input is another story that has to do with making exact digital audio copies and a little bit of sync issues. It is a whole other story...

Slightly off topic, but I hope the explanation helps...


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## elspankdog

> _Originally posted by btwyx _
> *...The display takes about 2 sec after power on, before it accepts the code, I have to make sure the pronto is still pointing at the display, and I haven't put it down in the meantime. *


My plasma is the same way, and when you have a long macro to power on everything for the WAF, your arm can go numb. I'm thankful that the TiVos stayed powered on - that's two-less devices to power up.


----------



## barrygordon

Slightly off topic, 

On the control side, a really cheap PC (an old laptop would be perfect) coupled with a good IR receiver around $40, and a decent IR generator (used slinke or other device) solves the Pronto pointing problem) . The pronto emits one and only one IR code for every "Button". The PC then emits the effective macro string which could be IR, RS232, or a combo of the two) to set each component in the chain properly; moves the WAF way up, especially if coupled with a little audio help out of the PC. I have been thinking of developing a table driven program which would be a scaled down version of what I use. Wonder how much interest would be out there?


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## elspankdog

Still off topic,

I have a Niles IR transmitter to relay signals to components in another room. My problem is that the display is not hooked up to the transmitter since it's right there in front of you.


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## RightHere

More info on the Pelican switchbox can be found here.

PL-957 is the black version. PL-960 is the silver. Silver version is $70 + S/H at walmart.com (it doesn't show up in froogle if you type the part number, but it does appear if you use the name of the item).

I was at Best Buy today and saw another item that you folks might be interested in. This one DOES have a remote. It's a Datel Enhanced System Selector. Part number is UCV04. It supports component, composite and S-video, and analog audio. Up to 4 systems can be attached to it. It's only $30. So far I can't find ANY info online about it.

Another item is the Madcatz HDTV system selector: link. It's got mixed reviews on the ebgames website, but for $20 it might be worth checking out if you only need to combine 2 sources and don't want to hassle with a remote.


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## Wolfman1138

I want to let people know about a new video switch that has just been released by Video-Storm. (www.video-storm.com)

The Specs:
CSW02
4x2 Component Video Switching + Digial Coax
IR Learning switching + Manual front control
+70 Mhz bandwidth
I was selected as a beta tester for this switch, so I really ran it through its paces, and I was very impressed. The switch has been rated for 70 MHz bandwidth. I ran 720p signals out of my Xbox to the switch and sent the signal through 50' RG6 cables to an HDTV in the other room with no signal loss or ringing. I have also run 1080i signals through the switch with no quality loss.

The coolest feature (besides the dual outputs) is the IR control. Hold down the button for three seconds and then send an IR command. The switch learns the command and uses it to directly select that input. I used it to seamlessly switch both the Video through the switch and my optical audio sources through the receiver with a single button push on the remote of my choice.

I also used the switch to switch between 4 S-Video sources by building simple breakout cables. The switch worked very well.

I hooked up an oscilloscope to the output of the switch and saw very clean outputs.

The only drawback of the switch is the lack of optical inputs. This means that I still have to use my receiver to switch the optical audio from the XBOX, but it was not a big deal with the IR learning feature.

The construction of the box leaves a little to be desired, but it is fine. I was concerned at first about the connectors themselves because they flexed slightly when attaching my cables (VERY snug AudioQuest connectors). During the beta-test I must have swapped cables about 50 times, and I never had an issue, so I think I can dismiss my concerns.

This review is of my own accord, and the opinions expressed are mine alone.

My Setup:
Sony HS-20 HD LCD Projector
Dell 17" HDTV LCD monitor
Panasonic 27" SDTV
2 Sony 300 DVD Changers
XBOX with HD Pack
2 DirecTiVos


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## Jim Christian

Yeah, I just saw them at www.ebaystores.com/hdtvsupply along with the Zektor, of which I think is still better and has optical inputs


----------



## tgibbs

> _Originally posted by Jim Christian _
> *Yeah, I just saw them at www.ebaystores.com/hdtvsupply along with the Zektor, of which I think is still better and has optical inputs *


Big price difference, though. Some Radio Shacks still have their $100 digital switch box, which switches optical audio, but only component video. I'm using that for audio switching.


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## Jim Christian

That box is composite, not component , and it fails my frequency response tests to 37-MHz as it is down 3 db at 10-Mhz.


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## mrpayroll

> _Originally posted by btwyx _
> *
> The "Pelican component selector switch" looks interesting, 8 inputs, inexpenise, but no IR control. Designed for gamers. Also does Ethernet (weird).
> 
> *


Actually this is #1, for gaming machines, so the Ethernet is not too weird. It has 3 inputs for Ethernet (PS2, XBox & Gamecube), which is great if you have all 3 systems. You could also connect your computer up to this in the living room and having the Ethernet included helps, so you don't have to run too many lines for all of your different connections.

The only one big complaint I have about the Pelican is that it only has digital optical (Toslink) for the first 3 components. I can understand only 3 Ethernet's, but all 8 inputs should have had Toslink included.

But other than that I got a great deal on Ebay, it was a brand new unit and I was lucky enough to get it in black, for $50.

Chris


----------



## aaronwt

> _Originally posted by Wolfman1138 _
> *I want to let people know about a new video switch that has just been released by Video-Storm. (www.video-storm.com)
> 
> The Specs:
> CSW02
> 4x2 Component Video Switching + Digial Coax
> IR Learning switching + Manual front control
> +70 Mhz bandwidth
> I was selected as a beta tester for this switch, so I really ran it through its paces, and I was very impressed. The switch has been rated for 70 MHz bandwidth. I ran 720p signals out of my Xbox to the switch and sent the signal through 50' RG6 cables to an HDTV in the other room with no signal loss or ringing. I have also run 1080i signals through the switch with no quality loss.
> 
> The coolest feature (besides the dual outputs) is the IR control. Hold down the button for three seconds and then send an IR command. The switch learns the command and uses it to directly select that input. I used it to seamlessly switch both the Video through the switch and my optical audio sources through the receiver with a single button push on the remote of my choice.
> 
> I also used the switch to switch between 4 S-Video sources by building simple breakout cables. The switch worked very well.
> 
> I hooked up an oscilloscope to the output of the switch and saw very clean outputs.
> 
> The only drawback of the switch is the lack of optical inputs. This means that I still have to use my receiver to switch the optical audio from the XBOX, but it was not a big deal with the IR learning feature.
> 
> The construction of the box leaves a little to be desired, but it is fine. I was concerned at first about the connectors themselves because they flexed slightly when attaching my cables (VERY snug AudioQuest connectors). During the beta-test I must have swapped cables about 50 times, and I never had an issue, so I think I can dismiss my concerns.
> 
> *


that looks similar to the size of the INDAY box but the INDAY looks better constructed and the INDAY has a bandwidth of 230Mhz. ALthough you have to get a second INDAY box for digital coax and optical. It converts both ways for each input. Both boxes are around $270($150 for component switcher and $120 for digital audio swicther)


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## DennisMileHi

My Inday component switcher works perfectly with absolutely no perceptable change in PQ. I need it for the Tivo and a DVD. My receiver will switch two optical audio inputs so I only needed the one box. The big deal for me was IR control so I could put the switch in a macro when going between Tivo and DVD.


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## btwyx

> _Originally posted by mrpayroll _
> *"The "Pelican component selector switch" looks interesting, 8 inputs, inexpenise, but no IR control. Designed for gamers. Also does Ethernet (weird)."
> 
> Actually this is #1, for gaming machines, so the Ethernet is not too weird. *


 I got the impression that the Ethernet imputs were switched with the input, that would be weird. Re-reading it, I'm not sure that's the case, it may be a more conventional ethernet switch.


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## Wolfman1138

One really important point feature missing from the Inday switch is the dual outputs. I have a LCD projector, but I want to also get a direct view HDTV set. With the Inday you would have drop another $140 on the Video Distribution amp to get another output and you have to add yet another box in your signal path. 

I think that +70Mhz is adequate headroom for HD signals running 37MHz bandwidth.

If you wanted optical you could get the Inday Digital Audio switch($120) and the Video-Storm CSW02 ($160). You could program the CSW02 to the same Inday codes and with the single Inday remote, control both switches. You get the best of both worlds with a second component output for only $10 more.

I do agree with you that the Inday looks a little better put together, but if you look at the back panels of both you'll see that they are using similar connector blocks. Inday just used a drilled back panel and used screws to support the connectors while Video-storm used a full cut out (you can see the screw holes in the Video-Storm connection blocks.)

These are just my opinions. I do like the Inday number readout, but for me all my equipment sits behind the screen, so a fancy readout really isn't very useful for me. I don't have any experience with the Inday switch. I just needed two component outputs and I have enough optical inputs on my receiver for now.

l8r.


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## Wolfman1138

FYI, it looks like Video-Storm is having a July sale, giving $30 bucks off making the switch on $130 (for a short while at least.)

l8r


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## Jim Christian

It's also at www.ebaystores.com/hdtvsupply with free shipping


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## Mark Lopez

I picked up a Zektor HDS4B today and it works great. :up:


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## andystj

I finally have all of my HD hardware enroute, and I think switching is the last issue I have to face. On its way is an HDTivo (of course), Panny 50PHD6UY and Harmony 688 Remote (this actually arrived, the other two will be arriving by next week).

I'm pre-wired for component, and I think I'll stick with that while HDTivo's HDMI bugs persist and while hoping that Panasonic makes an HDMI Blade for the monitor. (The Panny monitor has interchangeable blades to add connections flexibly, but currently there is no HDMI blade and I don't want to fish one of those big honkin DVI cables through the wall.)

My debate is whether to upgrade my receiver to a high-bandwidth A/V receiver with 3-4 component inputs or to buy a standalone switch like the Zektor and sticking with my current receiver (nothing great but it has enough power and 5.1).

I have been reading the thread and appreciate all the insight. I would again invite any current recommendations.

I am particularly interested in making sure that everything integrates nicely and easily with the Harmony 688 remote control. Any thoughts?


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## tgibbs

I've tried a couple of switching units. I started out using the AVToolbox unit, but had a problem with interference on my DVD player. I don't know if this is a generic problem with the AVToolbox, or I just have a bad one. I'm now using the video-storm. The AVTool unit switches 5 channels (designated for component + stereo), while the Video-Storm switches 4 channels (indended for component + coaxial digital). Both devices switch among 4 inputs, with two simultaneous outputs. At the moment, I'm pretty happy with the performance of the Video-Storm, although it's a very bare-bones design--the inputs and outputs aren't even labeled, and you get a cheesy little sheet of paper telling you which is which. And the front panel input indicator is a garish bright yellow light that shines through a slot; it was so distracting that I had to cover it up with a piece of masking tape.

Both devices are learning switchboxes, so you can teach them pretty much any IR signal you want. The harmony remote understands switchboxes, and works well with them.

I'm not really using to the VideoStorm to switch audio, because I have an old RadioShack digital switcher that is designed to switch composite video + audio (I haven't tried running component through it). Its main virtue is that it switches optical audio among among 6 inputs, so I'm now using it almost exclusively as an audio switcher. It also learns signals, so I've got it using the same signals for inputs 1-4 as the VideoStorm. It also is switched very nicely by the Harmony remote.


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## andystj

Thanks for your help tgibbs. I am glad to know the Harmony understands switchboxes. I really need to start playing with my online set-up, but I didn't want to start until I knew what my components were going to be.

I take it from your post that the video-storm doesn't have digital audio ins and outs. I know that the Inday is Video Only in one box with a separate box for Audio. 

I think my current receiver is 1 digital input short (I'll check tonight).

I guess if I need to switch A and V, I would need to get two boxes (like Inday or Video Storm+ a Digital Audio switch) or get a Zektor.

Alternatively, I can go with a new A/V integrated receiver. Does anyone have negative experience using receivers to switch video? It looks as though there are reasonably priced choices out there that purport to have sufficient bandwidth and three component inputs.


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## tgibbs

> _Originally posted by andystj _
> *I take it from your post that the video-storm doesn't have digital audio ins and outs. I know that the Inday is Video Only in one box with a separate box for Audio. *


The Video-Storm will switch coaxial digital audio, but doesn't have optical. I've only got one component using coaxial digital (everything else was already set up with optical, and I didn't see any need to switch), but it seems to work fine.


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## GotATiVoToo

I use the Latency: Zero 8-input switcher and like it a lot.

Somebody here didn't like the BNC, but I didn't find them to be a big deal -- BNC to RCA adapters are easy, or I just had the cables that I ordered made with BNC on one end.

Incredibly, I'm using all 8 inputs and both outputs. In fact, I sort of wish it had three outputs...


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## sokolj

I'm considering getting the Video Storm 4x2 Matrix Switcher. I'm struggling how I could integrate two (2) HD DirecTivo boxes and control them via a pronto. The question is, how could i get the remote to recognize the difference between HDTivo 1 and HDTivo2? Has anyone usurped this problem already?


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## tgibbs

> _Originally posted by sokolj _
> *I'm considering getting the Video Storm 4x2 Matrix Switcher. I'm struggling how I could integrate two (2) HD DirecTivo boxes and control them via a pronto. The question is, how could i get the remote to recognize the difference between HDTivo 1 and HDTivo2? Has anyone usurped this problem already? *


It shouldn't be a problem. TiVo's can have different addresses. The manual explains how to assign an address to your TiVo. I had no difficulty programming my Harmony remote to control two TiVo's in the same room.


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## barrygordon

I am not sure what your questions is. If you have multiple Tivo's in the same room there is no issue. Tivo's have the ability to deal with multiple devices from the remotes. A tivo may be set to respond to a specifc remote as device 1 through N, and like wise the remote may be set to act as the remote for only device 1-N. I have the pronto key data for devices 1-3 as I have three Tivo's in my home theater. I can give it to you as Textfiles or an old style ccf. I can also generate the codes for devices 4-9 which I believe work but are undocumented. I guess Tivo never thought that there would be more than three in a room. By the way, device code of 0 in a remote acting as the universal remote for Tivo's, ie all tivos will respond to remote 0 no matter how they are set. Likewise a Tivo set to respond to act as devcie 0 will respond to all Tivo remotes no matter what their coding.

If you are familiar with IR, the remote uses a standard 16 bit device code, an 8 bit function or key code, a 4 bit unit code (That is the field that says which Tivo) and a 4 bit check field related to the key code.


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## mikemav

Can anyone vouch for the video quality on the 4x2 matrix switcher model Cables to Go is selling? I was going to order the Video Storm 4x2, but this one is a true matrix, so it can send different inputs to each output. However, the price is so low it worries me. I have one short run and one longer run, and both will be to high HD displays with high quality HD sources, and I want to know if this is up to the task. Any feedback is appreciated.


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## skulleyb

I have the Video storm CSW02.
Been using it for about 4 days.
And All i can say is do not get this switcher.
I hope maybe its just mine, but when im watching any programing 
HD or SD It seems to lose sync. My tv goes blank and flickers for a sec and then comes back on. I know for a fact before the switcher was in my setup that the flickering did not happen. Becouse i can actually rewind and in the same spot with the swithcer it will lose sync in the same place.
Usually with a lot of white in the picture.
Any one had similar issues?
c


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## tgibbs

> _Originally posted by skulleyb _
> *I have the Video storm CSW02.
> Been using it for about 4 days.
> And All i can say is do not get this switcher.
> I hope maybe its just mine, but when im watching any programing
> HD or SD It seems to lose sync. My tv goes blank and flickers for a sec and then comes back on. I know for a fact before the switcher was in my setup that the flickering did not happen. Becouse i can actually rewind and in the same spot with the swithcer it will lose sync in the same place.
> Usually with a lot of white in the picture.
> Any one had similar issues?
> c *


No, I have one that seems to work perfectly.

I've known some TVs that had problems maintaining horizontal sync when there is a lot of white in the picture. Could this be the problem?

Have you tried bypassing the switcher with the same program, to verify that the sync loss does not occur at the same place?


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## skulleyb

Yeah i never had the problem before i used the switcher.
I have a pioneer 502mx plasma. It never lost sync at all when hooked up direct. I email the manufacture and am waiting for a reply. Hopefully it was just my box and they will send me a new one, If not i guess i'll spend the money on a zector.
c


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## tgibbs

> _Originally posted by skulleyb _
> *Yeah i never had the problem before i used the switcher.
> I have a pioneer 502mx plasma. It never lost sync at all when hooked up direct. I email the manufacture and am waiting for a reply. Hopefully it was just my box and they will send me a new one, If not i guess i'll spend the money on a zector.
> c *


I'm not sure if this quite answered my question. Did you bypass the box and play the exact same sequence that caused loss of sync with the box in place?


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## skulleyb

Yes i hooked the tivo directly to my tivo and played the same area of a program that lost sync with the switcher. Video storm emailed me back a few hours after emailing them... They said they had another that had a similar problem and they have solved it and are sending me a new one as we speak.. 
I am most impressed with there support team.
Now I just have to wait and see if the new one they are sending me takes care of the problem.
C


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## F4Boy

btwyx,

Just wanted to thank you for putting all the info together in this post. It was very helpful to me. I just ordered the Inday. Though I wanted 2 outputs, everyone seems to be very happy with this unit, and PQ is the most important factor, especially after watching a few Star Wars movies this week that were phenomenal! DVD PQ must remain as is!

Thanks again!

Todd


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## Wolfman1138

Video Storm has released their newest Component Video switcher.
Video Storm CSM42 4x2 Matrix Component Video Switch

Quick Facts:
4 inputs/2 independantly selectable outputs
Connections *per* In/Out:
- Component (3xRCA)
- Digital Coax (1xRCA)
- Digital Toslink (1 optical)
- Analog Audio (2xRCA)

Video Bandwidth: 250 Mhz
Video Noise Spectrum < 60dB
Video Crosstalk < 55 dB
Audio Crosstalk < 95 dB
Independent, isolated video drivers capable of driving long cables.
Passive switching of analog audio
Active switching of digital audio & component video
Transcoding of Digital Audio (Coax to Toslink and visa-versa)

I was a beta tester for the CSM42 for the past two months, and I absolutely love the unit. It addressed all the wishlist items I had for the CSW02, such as optical inputs and higher bandwidth, as well as adding the matrixing feature. All I can say is wow. I never knew how much I needed the matrixing until I started using it.

This matrix switch has unbelievable performance. I built a 100&#146; component cable to run to the kitchen to test the CSM42 out, and there is absolutely no loss. None! A perfect picture through a 100&#146; cable. Next summer I am going to take the projector outside for Starlight Movie night because with the CSM42 I don&#146;t have to move any of the other equipment! 
I spent about 5 days trying every conceivable combination of inputs and outputs at the switch and it passed with flying colors.

Video:
Component video performance was stellar. Throwing a mix of SD and HD material at the switch, I saw no crosstalk between sources. I was able to switch between 480i and 720p/1080i with no ill affects other than the projectors re-sync time. The unit was also very responsive to the remote. 
I have also built RCA to S-Video adapters and used the three component channels to switch both SVideo and Composite Video too with no issues and no crosstalk.

Audio:
The transcoding of the optical to coax digital audio worked flawlessly. I tried several different combinations (such as all optical, all coax, optical in/coax out, etc.) and never had issues. Since the optical and coax are treated as different inputs, even mixing two different audio streams on a single video input caused no issues. I could just flip back and forth between the two audio streams without the picture changing, nor crosstalk.

Analog audio performance was also outstanding. I was able to drive the analog audio through 50&#146; cables to the kitchen with no audible loss and no crosstalk between channels. The switching between inputs was also good with no noise or pops.

I guess I mention crosstalk a lot in this review because a previous S-Video switch I have (different manufacturer) has terrible crosstalk on the analog audio and I have seen crosstalk across S-Video paths in the past as well. The CSM42 really does a good job eliminating these issues.

Remote learning was very straight forward, allowing me to assign separate codes for both the coax and optical inputs. For my final usage model, I programmed IR codes for only the inputs I needed. Very simple to set up and to integrate into a system.

Video Storm as improved several things over their previous designs. From the back of the unit, the addition of support screws and better labeling is a welcome change. From the front, the inclusion of a digital display to indicate the last changed input is also very nice.

The only two things I would change with this unit would be to get the optical jacks onto the back of the unit and it would also be nice to be in a standard width case. But for now it resides on my odd-sized-component shelf.

The CSM42 is a welcome addition to my home theater. With the ability to independently control two video outputs, to transocode digital audio and to learn IR codes, and bandwidth headroom to spare, this is probably the best valued switch on the market. I am set until I get another DVD changer (in which case I will probably just stack two CSM42s.)


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## Bodie

See what happenes when you get tied up for the better part of a year??? So between motorcycling whenever the weather approached nice and travelling for work, I never thought twice about the 1154 switch replacement since last April... When I called AA back today, they told me that the computer on which everyone's name (that had reported the problem) was stored had crashed and they were waiting for people to call back in. The good news is an 1154A is on the way and they said they've had near 100% success with them.


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## Augie

Radio Shack has a new 4-in 2-out component video switcher for $70. It includes coaxial digital audio switching and can be switched via any remote control. The part number is 15-1927. I cannot find it in their online catalog.

Has anyone measured/used one of these for high-definition? The packaging says it's HD-compatible and there is a prelabeled "HDTV" input.


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## Lehigh

Update? How are these working for everyone?

I'm in the market for one now, any new and improved (and cheaper) ones out?


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## Jim Christian

We've got a lot of new component switchers at www.hdtvsupply.com

The Zektors still test the best at 1080p's 70-Mhz but the Video Storms are fantastic buys.


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## tgibbs

I'm still pretty happy with the Videostorm, although I'd love to have a unit with optical instead of coax (I'm using a separate RadioShack switcher just to switch optical audio). And considering that there's a new generation of videogame systems coming out, a unit with 6 or more inputs would be really nice.


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## Jim Christian

Our hot new 6 x 2 (and 8 X 4) matrix switcher is the Avalon seen at http://www.hdtvsupply.com/av6x2and8x4c.html

It switches to 2-separate outputs along with toslink


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## Lehigh

Jim Christian said:


> Our hot new 6 x 2 (and 8 X 4) matrix switcher is the Avalon seen at http://www.hdtvsupply.com/av6x2and8x4c.html
> 
> It switches to 2-separate outputs along with toslink


Wow thats nuts!  I'm just looking for a (at least) 3 to 1 autoswitcher with componant & audio in the $100 to $150 range that won't screw up the picture to my HDTV. Need some more cables too I guess.


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## Jim Christian

The bigger the HDTV you have and the longer the component cables you have are a major factor also.

If you have a 27" HDTV with 3-foot cables you MAY get by with a ~$100 component switcher...but my eyes could see the problems...your eyes probably couldn't.


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## sokolj

I've got a VideoStorm 4x2 and two runs of over 50 feet to plasma tv's. Picture is very good. IR control is flaky at best.


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## btwyx

The Inday switcher works fine for me.


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## Vin

Lehigh said:


> Wow thats nuts!  I'm just looking for a (at least) 3 to 1 autoswitcher with componant & audio in the $100 to $150 range that won't screw up the picture to my HDTV. Need some more cables too I guess.


http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...=&kw=component+video+switch&parentPage=search

http://www.accessorywarehouse.com/shop/customer/product.php?productid=26129


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## btwyx

Vin said:


> http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...=&kw=component+video+switch&parentPage=search


That looks interesting, but from that page its somewhat unclear what its capabilities are. How many or what type of terminals? etc.


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## btwyx

Vin said:


> http://www.accessorywarehouse.com/shop/customer/product.php?productid=26129


That's a dead link for me. (Or rather no such server.)


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## Augie

The Radio Shack switcher didn't work for me. Video with a lot of white exhibited extreme rainbow-like horizontal lines in the upper portion of the picture. See my post and pictures here:

avsforum... showthread.php?p=5826840&&#post5826840
(Site not letting me post URLs or images.)

I own the Video Storm CSW02. It's okay for the price, but cheaply made and has trouble with all-white video.

The back panel of component video jacks is only attached to the inside on one edge, so when you push connectors onto it, the panel pushes inward. Feels like you are going to break it right off.

I used some tight-fitting Monster Cable turbine connectors. When taking one of them off, the metal part of the jack came off with it. This is not a problem with just the Video Storm though. The same thing has happened to me on well-made components. The moral here is, Monster Cable turbine connectors are just too tight.

When a shot fades to all white or the show/movie has people taking flash pictures that take the screen all white, the picture rolls quickly. Really, it's more like a blip, like it's lost video signal. It happens very quickly and a non-videophile would probably not notice, but it does happen.

All of that said, for the money, it's really helped me out and I am willing to put up with the small problems for the added convenience.


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## dswallow

Augie said:


> I used some tight-fitting Monster Cable turbine connectors. When taking one of them off, the metal part of the jack came off with it. This is not a problem with just the Video Storm though. The same thing has happened to me on well-made components. The moral here is, Monster Cable turbine connectors are just too tight.


The moral here is Monster-brand Cables are overpriced garbage and should be avoided.


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## Bunny

Augie said:


> I own the Video Storm CSW02. It's okay for the price, but cheaply made and has trouble with all-white video.
> ....
> When a shot fades to all white or the show/movie has people taking flash pictures that take the screen all white, the picture rolls quickly. Really, it's more like a blip, like it's lost video signal. It happens very quickly and a non-videophile would probably not notice, but it does happen.
> 
> All of that said, for the money, it's really helped me out and I am willing to put up with the small problems for the added convenience.


I have the same switch and the same problem with all-white video. I am wondering if any of the other Video Storm models suffer the same problem.


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## SpankyInChicago

Jim Christian said:


> Our hot new 6 x 2 (and 8 X 4) matrix switcher is the Avalon seen at http://www.hdtvsupply.com/av6x2and8x4c.html
> 
> It switches to 2-separate outputs along with toslink


Nice price, but such a price leads me to question quality.

Similar Key Digital units are around $1500.

Is that bandwidth figure per signal output or for the unit as a whole?


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## Vin

btwyx said:


> That's a dead link for me. (Or rather no such server.)


Here's the same switch for even less with free shipping. (I don't own it so this isn't a recommendation, just something I came upon in a search).


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## fmowry

I've got the Rat shack switcher and it's worked fine for me. No problems like Augie posted. This is going from the HDTivo to the switcher and then to my Infocus 4805 FP. Running about 30 foot of OK component cables to the projector.

Try it. Ratshacks are everywhere and their return policy is good. For switching via remote, the switcher learns one button from the remote you are switching from. I use the enter button for the tivo and the enter button for my DVD player.

Frank


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## btwyx

fmowry said:


> I've got the Rat shack switcher


Can you tell us a little about it, as I said up there, its somewhat unclear what its capabilities are. How many or what type of terminals? etc.


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## tgibbs

I've had the Video Storm CSW02 switchbox for a while, which switches 4 channels (component + coax digital audio, no optical) into two outputs. I've been fairly satisfied with it, but I needed more channels, so I ordered the CSW62. This switches 6 component inputs, into two outputs (not a matrix switcher; each output gets the same signal).

Video Storm is known for producing low-priced bare-bones switchboxes with high performance, and the CSW62 fits this pattern. Like the CSW02, the RCA terminals are gold plated, but it has a general cheap, flimsy feel about it. I have my doubts as to whether the construction is robust enough to withstand heavy use with repeated plugging and unplugging, but with a little care it should be fine for home use where connections are changed only rarely. Like the CSW02, you can switch channels with a button in front, and it can also be infrared controlled, but no remote is provided. Instead, it learns whatever commands you want from another remote. The CSW02 had 4 amber LEDs in front to tell you which channel is active. The CSW62 has only 3 LEDs, and, believe it or not, displays the input number in _binary_. Not only that, the button on the front steps through all 8 binary combinations, which is a bit odd considering that there are only 6 inputs (I didn't check what, if anything, settings 7 and 8 do). As with the CSW02, the LEDs are glaringly bright; I ended up sticking a strip of black electrical tape over them--they are actually so bright that I can still see them through the tape. At least the inputs and outputs are actually labeled (they weren't on the CSW02).

According to the Video Storm web site, the CSW62 is improved in that it offers DC restoration, which "restores the DC levels on the output video to the proper specification levels regardless of what is present on the input." They claim that this helps prevent loss of sync during scene transitions if a display has slow DC restoration. I wondered whether this would help with a problem that I'd observed with my Philips TV with component input, in which there is a problem with images that contain a lot of white, generally manifesting as tearing of scattered individual scan lines at the left side of the screen. This is a bit hard to judge, as problematic images show up only occasionally, but after living with the unit for a week, I think that it does improve the problem, but not perfectly. I think that the Video Storm may not be quite fast enough--I still get a momentary glitch immediately upon transition to an all-white screen, but it then seems to immediately stabilize. If I single-step through a white screen, it looks fine and is perfectly stable. That was not the case previously. Aside from that, the box seems to work perfectly.

The lack of audio switching is not a problem for me, because I have an older Radio Shack box that switches 6 optical audio (as well as composite video and stereo audio) inputs into 2 outputs, which I am now using exclusively as an audio switcher. Like the Video Storm, it is infrared-programmable, so I programmed the two units to respond to the same commands, and together I have full 6x2 video and audio switching.


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## Montana Man

Ok maybe im retarded but what exactly do these things do?

Are they for when you dont have enough inputs on your TV for all your component video devices? Or are they to run one device to more than 1 TV?

May be a dumb question but im intrested in the answer.


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## tgibbs

Montana Man said:


> Ok maybe im retarded but what exactly do these things do?
> 
> Are they for when you dont have enough inputs on your TV for all your component video devices? Or are they to run one device to more than 1 TV?


Primarily for the former, but sometimes for the latter as well. A simple switcher takes one of several (usually 4 or 6) inputs and routes it to typically one or two outputs, so you could drive two TVs, but they'd be showing the same thing. I need two outputs because my TV has separate inputs for HD and SD. So if I want to watch the output of my HDTiVo in 480i (which allows me to use my TVs zoom capability), I have to use one input, but if I want to watch in 1080i, I have to use the other input. Using a switcher with two outputs, I don't have to swap wires.

There are also matrix switchers, which will route any one of multiple inputs to any one of multiple outputs (i.e. different inputs can simultaneously be connected to different outputs).

Switchers vary substantially in quality and price. The cheapest ones are passive, and simply connect the input you select to the output you want. This sometimes works, but can produce visible deterioration of the picture, particularly for HD, which is more demanding. Longer wires can also be a problem. The more expensive ones do some electrical conditioning of the signal to better match impedance and so forth. Some switchers also switch audio.


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## btwyx

They're for when you don't have enough Inputs on your TV, or on your receiver.

For me that was when I got the HD TiVo. I already had a DVD player and a D-VHS player, both of which do component out. There are only 2 component inputs on my receiver.

Running 1 device to multiple TVs is something else, that's a distribution amplifier.


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## TysonBrady7

Hi all,

The Cables To Go 4 To 2 Matrix selector is still avaialble for purchase, and in my opinion is a really good product. Considering it's price to performance ratio, it is tough to do better.

If you have extra money to spend, however, there are of course more expensive, feature rich options with absolutely killer visual quality!

I know this is an old thread, but if anyone is still looking for options for a component video switch I would recommend this review site:

Component Video Switch

It also has editor, and user, reviews for the best cables to use with your component video switch.

Hope it helps someone to make a more informaed choice.

Thanks


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## TyroneShoes

They have a lot of great and inexpensive component switchers at monoprice.com. I got a 4x1 with audio and RF for like $19 around xmas-time. It works great, IR is not flaky, and it handles white without any of the problems listed in this thread.

They also have 4x2s and larger, I believe, and some with digital audio as well. I think they are also a forum sponsor. Great company, great quality at low prices.


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