# Sending HR10-250 Signal to 2nd TV



## gilberto (Feb 22, 2005)

I have an HR10-250 in the family room. I also have an OTA on the roof and it runs to the family room TV.

I have two questions:

1. Is it possible to split the HR10-250 signal to a 2nd HDTV in another room?

2. Can I also split the OTA signal?


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## stevel (Aug 23, 2000)

You want to split the output signal? That would be either component or HDMI. I don't think HDMI "splitters" exist. Component video splitters do exist.

The OTA signal comes in to the HR10, but it is just a standard UHF signal that can be split like any other and run to the other TV if you want.


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## gilberto (Feb 22, 2005)

Gotcha on the OTA issue. Sorry if I wasn't clear on the first issue.

I basically want to have two HDTV's (family room and bedroom) running off of the one HR10-250 in the family room. If the 2nd TV is in another room, it seems like running component >200 ft. is not feasible. Any other way to do this?


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## stevel (Aug 23, 2000)

Sure it's feasible. Not cheap, but feasible. See http://www.smarthome.com/77707k.html

Consider a second HR10 for the other room and run a second set of satellite and OTA feeds.


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## gilberto (Feb 22, 2005)

what about this: http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...03&p_id=2522&style=&seq=1&format=1#largeimage. what if i plug this in to the back of the hr10-250 and then i would have two hdmi ouputs?

this seems too easy, right? i would need a long hdmi cable to run to the 2nd tv, but doable i think. any thoughts?


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## rifleman69 (Jan 6, 2005)

The HD-TiVo only shows one tuner at a time, so unless you want to watch something on tv A or tv B only, why are you considering this?


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## gilberto (Feb 22, 2005)

rifleman69 said:


> The HD-TiVo only shows one tuner at a time, so unless you want to watch something on tv A or tv B only, why are you considering this?


right, i will only be watching the living room tv or bedroom tv -- never both at the same time. i am just trying to get HD on the 2nd tv without having to get another HR10-250.


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## stevel (Aug 23, 2000)

I'll be darned. I didn't think an HDMI splitter was possible. I have a hard time understanding how this would work with HDCP.


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## Arcady (Oct 14, 2004)

Read the customer reviews on that item. Both people said it didn't work.



> if ur thinking about splititng one box to 2 HD Tv''s.. its not going to happen with this splitter!


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## newsposter (Aug 18, 2002)

i know you didn't necessarily want to do it (and have no clue how much 200ft of any cable costs to be honest), but the suggestion for another hdtivo does almost sound cheaper than any other option for an HD picture in that room. they are 398 at newegg now and you own it.

of course you need at least 2 RG6 lines ( can diplex the ota) and again, not sure how much that is compared to component that long (if it even exists).

sorry i can't be more specific, just trying to toss out ideas. I've used old 'cable' to feed SD to 2 other tvs but with your HD set, that sure does present a problem.

There gotta be something wireless out there in this day and age. Have you checked into that?

maybe these people can help

http://www.highdefforum.com/


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## stevel (Aug 23, 2000)

The Smarthome product I linked to sends component video over Cat5E cable up to 500 feet. 200+ feet of component video cable won't work. Theoretically, HDMI could, but that would be very expensive.


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## newsposter (Aug 18, 2002)

curiousity was killing me

http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&style=

looks like about 1 buck a foot for 100ft cable. I have no idea if hdmi need a 'booster' but even if you can just lay it with just cable, sounds like 200 bucks is the cheapest price on cables.


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## Billy66 (Dec 15, 2003)

Is there a modulator to convert Component input to simple Coax cable to send upstairs? I want to output to another room in SD, but I don't want to change my default output res.


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## tomthumb (Jan 23, 2002)

I'm thinking of doing the same thing - having my HR10-250 output to 2 different HDTVs in different rooms.
What is the max distance component video can be carried? My run is no more than 50 feet, probably less...


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## stevel (Aug 23, 2000)

I don't know of anything to convert HD component to SD coax.

tomthumb, you may want to look at Impact Acoustics RapidRun cable system. I have a 25-foot version of this and it works well for component video. A lot easier than running five separate cable runs.


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## Jamber (Apr 13, 2006)

Your best bet is to convert the component to cat 5 with baluns and then back to component. That way you just have to run a Cat5 wire. You'll need to run Audio Too. Here's whereyou get the Balun: muxlab Google it. I'd post a link but I'm a n00b and the site software prevents it.


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## LlamaLarry (Apr 30, 2003)

Or just use Leviton 110 Quickport connectors instead of the baluns. Downside is that you need a cable to come from the wall plate to the device. I run component video from a DVD player (plus audio) to my flat panel, plus a SD DirecTiVo (plus audio) using these.


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## rifleman69 (Jan 6, 2005)

gilberto said:


> right, i will only be watching the living room tv or bedroom tv -- never both at the same time. i am just trying to get HD on the 2nd tv without having to get another HR10-250.


I bet the one time you want to watch something in bed while someone else is watching tv on the other (or vice-versa) will you understand how hard you're making this simple solution, which is get another HR10-250.


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## gilberto (Feb 22, 2005)

rifleman69 said:


> I bet the one time you want to watch something in bed while someone else is watching tv on the other (or vice-versa) will you understand how hard you're making this simple solution, which is get another HR10-250.


you're right, that would be ideal. just trying to save some money. i figured the cable would cost me $95 and the splitter was $14. but if the splitter is worthless, then this option won't work anyway.


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## MurrayW (Aug 28, 2005)

Jamber said:


> Your best bet is to convert the component to cat 5 with baluns and then back to component. That way you just have to run a Cat5 wire. You'll need to run Audio Too. Here's whereyou get the Balun: muxlab Google it. I'd post a link but I'm a n00b and the site software prevents it.


I have the muxlab component/digitial audio switcher and it works great. I got it mainly to test it out and because I was tired of my sons hooking their XBox's up to my main TV (Sharp 45" LCD) and leaving their XBox's, controllers, cables, etc. all over the room.

These are the two scenarios that I have tested:

1. XBox 360 component out in my youngest son's bedroom (directlly above our TV room) into one balun --> Cat5e --> to the other balun near the TV. Component out to my TV and digitial audio in to my AV receiver. Video, audio and wireless controllers worked great.

2. HR10-250 DirecTiVo component out into one balun --> Cat5e --> to the other balun upstairs to my office (~80 ft run) component out to my HP LC2600N LCD TV. I don't have a digital input device in my office so if I was going to do this as a permanent solution, I would either get a sound card for my computer that accepted digitial audio or buy a cheap receiver. I also contemplated buying a second balun for analog audio that I could run over a 2nd Cat5 line to the analog input of my HP LCD TV...but then I found someone selling an HR10-250 on craigslist for $100  so I am now using that for my TV viewing in my office.

Good luck.
Murray


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## pendragn (Jan 21, 2001)

MurrayW said:


> I have the muxlab component/digitial audio switcher and it works great. I got it mainly to test it out and because I was tired of my sons hooking their XBox's up to my main TV (Sharp 45" LCD) and leaving their XBox's, controllers, cables, etc. all over the room.


Do you just use two 500050s, one on each end?

How much do they cost?

tk


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## MurrayW (Aug 28, 2005)

pendragn said:


> Do you just use two 500050s, one on each end?
> 
> How much do they cost?
> 
> tk


Yes, you use one on each end. I'll check when I get home -- I think mine cost me ~$150 for the two of them.


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## rifleman69 (Jan 6, 2005)

gilberto said:


> you're right, that would be ideal. just trying to save some money. i figured the cable would cost me $95 and the splitter was $14. but if the splitter is worthless, then this option won't work anyway.


I do find this conversation very interesting and enlightening...didn't realize what everyone had hooked up to their tv/TiVo/dish/etc...many different prespectives here.


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## gilberto (Feb 22, 2005)

rifleman69 said:


> I do find this conversation very interesting and enlightening...didn't realize what everyone had hooked up to their tv/TiVo/dish/etc...many different prespectives here.


I second that -- thanks to everyone for replying and sharing your insight. Maybe I can grab a $100 HR10-250 off ebay too!


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## MurrayW (Aug 28, 2005)

gilberto said:


> I second that -- thanks to everyone for replying and sharing your insight. Maybe I can grab a $100 HR10-250 off ebay too!


Good luck on getting that $100 HR10-250! 

I just happened to check craigslist at the right time...about 30 minutes after the seller posted it and I arranged to pick it up 30 minutes after that.

The funny thing was that she listed 4 DirecTV boxes, each for $100. The HR10-250, a series 2 DirecTiVo and 2 regular SD receivers. Needless to say, I passed on the other 3. I felt a little guilty getting the HR10-250 for that price, but after I went to her house ($1M+ house on a golf course in one of the best locations in Austin) my guilt quickly went away.

Besides, $400 total was probably a fair price for all 4 boxes!


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## MurrayW (Aug 28, 2005)

pendragn said:


> Do you just use two 500050s, one on each end?
> 
> How much do they cost?
> 
> tk


It cost me $166.75 with shipping from svideo.com. I had an online coupon which still seems to be active that saved me 10% -- cinemaronline.

http://www.svideo.com/1080i.html


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## xtc (Jan 22, 2005)

I have a similar question that the original poster had, but its alot more simple. I need a signal sent to another room, but it doesn't need to to be HD, i just want the same thing thats on in the main room TV to be on in the second room TV which is a non-HDTV. I was able to do this when I had the R10 (non HD TiVo) but not the HR10-250 because the back of the HR10-250 does not have an RF OUT. Can someone help, i have a basic TV splitter but dont know how to connect HR10-250 to my other standard TV so that this can work. Thanks in advance!


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## gilberto (Feb 22, 2005)

xtc said:


> I have a similar question that the original poster had, but its alot more simple. I need a signal sent to another room, but it doesn't need to to be HD, i just want the same thing thats on in the main room TV to be on in the second room TV which is a non-HDTV. I was able to do this when I had the R10 (non HD TiVo) but not the HR10-250 because the back of the HR10-250 does not have an RF OUT. Can someone help, i have a basic TV splitter but dont know how to connect HR10-250 to my other standard TV so that this can work. Thanks in advance!


xtc, there is composite out which you could modulate (along with sound), but this will only work when you have the HR10-250 set to ouput 480i. you will have to set up the "up arrow" on the peanut to toggle between your favorite HD format and 480i.


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## xtc (Jan 22, 2005)

gilberto said:


> xtc, there is composite out which you could modulate (along with sound), but this will only work when you have the HR10-250 set to ouput 480i. you will have to set up the "up arrow" on the peanut to toggle between your favorite HD format and 480i.


gilberto, thanks for replying. I use 480i anyway so thats not a problem, but i dont understand what you mean about the composite out and modulating. Is that the red/white/yellow RCA jacks in the back of the unit? Can you please explain in detail what I need to do to make this work, thanks alot!


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## gilberto (Feb 22, 2005)

you can use a modulator (readily available for <$25). here is a link for a cheap unit: http://froogle.google.com/froogle_c...974729439487331&btnG=Search+Froogle&scoring=p

connect the composite out from the HR10-250 (red, white, and yellow RCA plugs) to the modulator. then connect the modulator to the 2nd tv with coax cable.


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## xtc (Jan 22, 2005)

gilberto, So this is the easiest way to do it? I'll look into it, thank you!!!


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## newsposter (Aug 18, 2002)

walmart and homedepot have them...i forget which was cheaper but they are all the same so dont overspent. I distribute all tivos thru my house this way via the old rg59 'cable' already present.


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## stevel (Aug 23, 2000)

RadioShack also has modulators. Nowadays they advertise them as devices for connecting DVD players to older TVs.


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## xtc (Jan 22, 2005)

yeah * here* is the link to radio shack's modulator. $30 seems like alot for something like this. But I'll buy it first to make sure it works for me, then return it and buy it somewhere cheaper online.


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## MurrayW (Aug 28, 2005)

xtc said:


> yeah * here* is the link to radio shack's modulator. $30 seems like alot for something like this. But I'll buy it first to make sure it works for me, then return it and buy it somewhere cheaper online.


Ever think that one of the reasons that B&M store prices are higher than online is that they have to charge more to make up for consumers who think they are in business to "lend" out items.  Come on -- it's $30. If you are morally opposed to paying that much, then take your chance and order it online, wait the few days for it to arrive, then pay the restocking fee if you have to return it.


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## gilberto (Feb 22, 2005)

MurrayW said:


> Ever think that one of the reasons that B&M store prices are higher than online is that they have to charge more to make up for consumers who think they are in business to "lend" out items.  Come on -- it's $30. If you are morally opposed to paying that much, then take your chance and order it online, wait the few days for it to arrive, then pay the restocking fee if you have to return it.


i don't see a problem with what xtc wants to do. radioshack, in this case, has a posted return policy. he is acting within the guidelines of that policy. radioshack could change their return policy or impose a restocking fee if they wish. i do agree though that if the item has been used to the point where radio shack cannot resell the item, then we have a different story.


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## MurrayW (Aug 28, 2005)

gilberto said:


> i don't see a problem with what xtc wants to do. radioshack, in this case, has a posted return policy. he is acting within the guidelines of that policy. radioshack could change their return policy or impose a restocking fee if they wish. i do agree though that if the item has been used to the point where radio shack cannot resell the item, then we have a different story.


It's the intention that I don't like. If he buys it, gets it home and finds out it doesn't work or he just doesn't like it, I have no problem with him returning it. But if he buys it knowing that he will return it if it works AND he likes it just because he can get it a little cheaper somewhere else, then to me, that doesn't seem quite right.


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## newsposter (Aug 18, 2002)

i assume no home depot or walmart near you? they are guaranteed to work as i've tried them


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## xtc (Jan 22, 2005)

MurrayW said:


> It's the intention that I don't like. If he buys it, gets it home and finds out it doesn't work or he just doesn't like it, I have no problem with him returning it. But if he buys it knowing that he will return it if it works AND he likes it just because he can get it a little cheaper somewhere else, then to me, that doesn't seem quite right.










Waaaaaaaaahhhhhhhh!!!!! I don't like his intention. It doesn't seem quite right Waaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhh!







Get a life, dude. Its the smart thing to do.


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## pendragn (Jan 21, 2001)

xtc said:


> Waaaaaaaaahhhhhhhh!!!!! I don't like his intention. It doesn't seem quite right Waaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhh! Get a life, dude. Its the smart thing to do.


Remember, the difference between Manslaughter and Murder is intent. Intent is everything.

I think if you asked Radio Shack who the target of their return policy was, they would tell you it's for customers that get faulty product, or a product that just doesn't work for them. It's not to allow people to test drive their products with the intention of buying it from someone else. This is the whole "letter of the law" vs. the "spirit of the law" debate. Unfortunately people that look for loopholes in the letter of the law make it tough on everyone else. If enough people do this, RS is going to add a restocking fee, which hurts those of us that don't take test drives. This is why Best Buy has such a high restocking fee on laptops, people would "borrow" them and bring them back within the return time essentially renting them from Best Buy for free.

I would argue whether it's the smart thing to do or not. Just because it works, doesn't mean it's right.

tk


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## tall1 (Oct 12, 2004)

I don't have a problem with returning a product if you find it cheaper online or any place else. If a store won't price match, I return it. What xtc didn't say and most people assume is retailers will not price match online etailers. xtc is an informed and savvy consumer who isn't going to overpay for something he can find cheaper online. And whether he finds the cheaper price before or after he buys it at a brick and mortar retailer is irrelavant. I don't care what his intent is because it isn't manslaughter or murder or criminal at all. 

I have asked stores to price match online retailers many times and it works about 80% of the time. I find the product online at the right price, I go to the big box store and buy it for the usual 30-40% more. Take it home and try it. If it works I return to the big box store and show them the online price and ask for a price match. 

Most of the time they match it. If they refuse to price match, I return home, connect the product again and order the cheaper one online. Once it arrives, I return the overpriced product.

It may take an extra trip to the store if they refuse to price match but it also saves me the added hassle of ordering online if they do price match.

xtc is assuming they won't price match or the retailer he deals with routinely refuses to price match online etailers. Too bad, they should be more price competitive or extend their price match policy to include online etailers. Their business model has flaws in it and pricing is a major flaw. They need to solve this problem because consumers will not stand for paying 40% more for electronics at the big box stores versus ordering it cheaper online.


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## pendragn (Jan 21, 2001)

Ask yourself why you aren't just ordering it online in the first place to see if it works. If it didn't, you could still return it, and it's less work for you, either way.

You don't because B&M is more convenient, and you get instant gratification. Plus you can look at the item, touch it, feel it, ask questions about it and get a lot more information about the product before you purchase. All these benefits aren't free to offer, and they have value to the customer. That's why B&M prices are usually higher, they offer more service. Now, what that extra service is worth is for the market to decide. If the markup is too much, people will order online. If it's not, they'll buy B&M. If the B&M store is willing to match an online price that's great, and there's certainly no harm in asking, but feeling a B&M is flawed because their price is not the same as an online price is not reasonable.

tk


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## tall1 (Oct 12, 2004)

I probably overstated what happens when I ask for a price match. Often times it is a reduced price but not an exact price match. If it is a reasonable price, I will agree to the higher price because you are right, there is some value by not having to wait for delivery.

I order alot of product online without ever stepping into a big box store. But when I need a cable because it is the weekend, my HT is down and I have the time to get it working if I buy it at a B&M, I will not order online. If it is just a few bucks cheaper, I don't even bother ordering it online. But if the price difference is significant, I will ask for a price match.

This seems reasonable to me and it must seem reasonable to the B&M because they often price match.

Oh and the B&M's business model is flawed. Their pricing is way out of whack and consumers are slowly starting to get it. They are reacting to this by offering their own brand of electronics (e.g. Best Buy's Insignia plasmas) to compete with online retailers.


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## kratos (Jan 23, 2006)

I for one have been dealing with the one HDtivo to 2 tv's problem. First of all I did not want two HDTivo's because that would mean not everything I wanted to watch would be on one box. For example if I was watching one thing in the living room and wanted to watch it in the bedroom I'd have to hope it was recorded on that tivo. 

For me here was my lucky solution. My 60xbr is connected in the living room with an HDMI cable and the tv in my bedroom is connected with rg6 terminated in composite ends. Meaning 5 rg6 lines total from the HDTivo through the wall into the bedroom. Since the sony "shuts down" the hdmi when the tv is not on that input the componets become active from the HDTivo and I can use that to watch tv.

Also from other peoples questions regarding and SD television in another room, you could also try this. Use a rf modulator from the rca outputs of the HDTivo, take that coax line and run that into the ant in on your multi switch if you are not using that for an antenna (Some people use a direct feed from the ant to the HDTivo). Once you do that you can use a diplexor at the sd tv and watch your HDTivo in anyroom that you have a satallite feed running without having to add more wiring in the walls. Just set HDTivo to 480i.


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## A J Ricaud (Jun 25, 2002)

gilberto said:


> you can use a modulator (readily available for <$25). here is a link for a cheap unit: http://froogle.google.com/froogle_c...974729439487331&btnG=Search+Froogle&scoring=p
> 
> connect the composite out from the HR10-250 (red, white, and yellow RCA plugs) to the modulator. then connect the modulator to the 2nd tv with coax cable.


One other option: if you have a VCR sitting around, use it as the modulator. You usually have a choce between outputting channel 3 or 4. Cost = 0.


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## Jim Christian (Sep 24, 2000)

I use the Video Storm at http://www.hdtvsupply.com/codiamp.html


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## pendragn (Jan 21, 2001)

kratos said:


> Since the sony "shuts down" the hdmi when the tv is not on that input the componets become active from the HDTivo and I can use that to watch tv.


Thank you, thank you, thank you.

Are all TVs this way? I'm using my HD TiVo with a Samsung DLP via HDMI. I think I'm going to go the "component over Cat5" method to get the signal to a second TV. I was worried I'd have to get a component splitter and start connecting my HD TiVo to my Samsung via component. Looks like I might be able to keep the HDMI, as long as I don't use the Samsung at the same time I use the second one.

tk


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## gilberto (Feb 22, 2005)

pendragn said:


> Remember, the difference between Manslaughter and Murder is intent. Intent is everything.


Not quite accurate. Not only is intent not everything, it's not even necessary in many cases. For example, you bring up the criminal context. Consider strict liability crimes -- where intent (or mens rea) is not required to establish guilt.

If you still aren't convinced, consider this example of strict liability offense: speeding on the highway. Telling the officer you didn't intend to speed will get you nowhere.

P.S. And yes, traffic violations are still considered 'crimes' in several U.S. states.


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## tomthumb (Jan 23, 2002)

It sounds like I can output from the 10-250 to one TV using HDMI and the other via component and that would work fine assuming only 1 tv is in operation at a time.

Is that correct?


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## pendragn (Jan 21, 2001)

tomthumb said:


> It sounds like I can output from the 10-250 to one TV using HDMI and the other via component and that would work fine assuming only 1 tv is in operation at a time.
> 
> Is that correct?


If anything is plugged into the HDMI socket, the other outputs are shut off. It sounds like if the TV attached with HDMI is shut off the other outputs light back up.

So you can use both as long you understand that it's controlled by whether the HDMI TV is on or not.

tk


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## A J Ricaud (Jun 25, 2002)

tomthumb said:


> It sounds like I can output from the 10-250 to one TV using HDMI and the other via component and that would work fine assuming only 1 tv is in operation at a time.
> 
> Is that correct?


It depends on the brands of TVs. On some, you have to physically disconnect the HDMI from the TV. My Mitsubishi DLP does that. I think that most Sonys work by just shutting them off or changing inputs.

My workaround is to use an HDMI switch. You may want to post back with your TV make/model for more info on this issue.


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## phox_mulder (Feb 23, 2006)

I have mine hooked up to my TV (Samsung slimfit in sig) with both HDMI and Component (for when the HDMI card dies, I won't have to pull the HR10-250/TV out and disconnect/reconnect), and I can switch between the two inputs, and they are both there.

So, either my TV is turning off the HDMI when I switch to component,
or they are both active at the same time on my box.


phox


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## rifleman69 (Jan 6, 2005)

Your tv is shutting off the HDMI when the component is enabled.


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## tomthumb (Jan 23, 2002)

I've got a samsung dlp and not sure what my 2nd tv is going to be - either a samsung or sony lcd.
so i'll be connecting one tv with the hdmi output (most likely the samsung - given the distance to the other tv) and the other with component.


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## A J Ricaud (Jun 25, 2002)

tomthumb said:


> I've got a samsung dlp and not sure what my 2nd tv is going to be - either a samsung or sony lcd.
> so i'll be connecting one tv with the hdmi output (most likely the samsung - given the distance to the other tv) and the other with component.


Post from above:

"I have mine hooked up to my TV (Samsung slimfit in sig) with both HDMI and Component (for when the HDMI card dies, I won't have to pull the HR10-250/TV out and disconnect/reconnect), and I can switch between the two inputs, and they are both there."

Good chance your Samsung will work as desired.

You can check it out by connecting both the HDMI and components to your Sammy and try switching between the 2 inputs.


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## STL (Feb 10, 2005)

LlamaLarry said:


> Or just use Leviton 110 Quickport connectors instead of the baluns. Downside is that you need a cable to come from the wall plate to the device. I run component video from a DVD player (plus audio) to my flat panel, plus a SD DirecTiVo (plus audio) using these.


Just curious, are you using these Leviton 110 Quickport things with an HD signal?


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## STL (Feb 10, 2005)

A J Ricaud said:


> One other option: if you have a VCR sitting around, use it as the modulator. You usually have a choce between outputting channel 3 or 4. Cost = 0.


That's exactly what I do. The VCR passes both the modulated video (on 3 or 4) and continues to pass the rest of the analog channels (as long as TV/VCR is set correctly) -- whereas most modulators jam/interfer with the other channels when sending out the modulated video. I have my HR10-250 able to display on four different TVs:
. one HD from component out
. one SD from the composite out via the VCR's composite out (since that TV's turner is dead)
. two SD from the composite out via the VCR's coax out 
BTW, I also built an IR distribution system so I can control the HR10-250 from any of those rooms with the TVs.


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## newsshooterderek (Nov 13, 2001)

Has anyone ever tried one of these units to distribute the HD signal to multiple HDTVs? http://www.futurehomesystems.com/v600.shtml
Says you can run 150 feet of component video cables without loss of video quality. Do you think it would work?


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## gilberto (Feb 22, 2005)

newsshooterderek said:


> Has anyone ever tried one of these units to distribute the HD signal to multiple HDTVs? http://www.futurehomesystems.com/v600.shtml
> Says you can run 150 feet of component video cables without loss of video quality. Do you think it would work?


Interesting product. I would love to see something like this for HDMI. I know there are DHCP issues, so probably not. Maybe someone will post a link to an HDMI equivalent or someone can share their experience with the unit above.


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## GX624 (Jan 28, 2004)

Jim Christian said:


> I use the Video Storm at http://www.hdtvsupply.com/codiamp.html


I do, too, and have had no problems. Two HDTV's within 35 feet of each other (living room, family room) with open archways.

http://www.hdtvsupply.com/4coviaudiam.html

But, I think, for the bedroom, you might want to bone up and get another 250. In our house, the recorded shows on the living room unit are usually different than those recorded on the bedroom unit.

$0.02


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## aus (Jul 30, 2005)

Check out this link. Lets you have HDMI and Component active at the same time.

http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb/showthread.php?t=298233

I haven't tried it yet, but I'm hoping this works.


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