# 2 TVs one HR10-250



## trausch (Jan 8, 2004)

The wife and I want to put a TV out by the hot tub. Our current HR10-250 is tied to our big TV. Does anyone have experience using something like a sling box to control a TIVO and stream the video to another TV?


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## JimSpence (Sep 19, 2001)

Just use the composite outputs to feed the second TV. Set the HR10 output to 480i and use an IR extender for control.


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## mitkraft (Feb 21, 2003)

Jim beat me to it. I was going to say just that. That's what we do.


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## bpratt (Nov 20, 2004)

Or, if the TV by the hot tub is HD use a component video/audio HDTV distribution Amp. I use the CE labs AV400COMP to connect my HR10-250 to 2 HDTVs. I use an IR repeater I purchased at Radio Shack to control the HR10-250 from the remote locations.


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## MikeMar (Jan 7, 2005)

To simplify above

Just run cords from the box to the tv and get a remote extender


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## trausch (Jan 8, 2004)

Thanks


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## gilberto (Feb 22, 2005)

bpratt said:


> Or, if the TV by the hot tub is HD use a component video/audio HDTV distribution Amp. I use the CE labs AV400COMP to connect my HR10-250 to 2 HDTVs. I use an IR repeater I purchased at Radio Shack to control the HR10-250 from the remote locations.


I posted the following question in the S3 forum by mistake. So here goes. I plugged in component AND HDMI to my living room set. I was toggling back and forth and both connections were live. Does this mean that I can use both component (on TV #1) and HDMI (TV #2) simultaneously?


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## newsposter (Aug 18, 2002)

how close to the tv will your tub be and how big is the tv? I used to think i wanted a tv by the tub but now have gained an appreciation for the stars and the amount of air traffic XX,000 ft above my house. Scary.

And are you going to use the tv in winter? I always wondering how it would fare in a PA january. 

Also, will you be keeping the tub on low and are you far enough away from neighbors that they wont hear (or you dont care what they know). I know on high no way could you hear a tv unless it's really loud. 

I'm interested to hear out this all works out.


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## bpratt (Nov 20, 2004)

gilberto said:


> I posted the following question in the S3 forum by mistake. So here goes. I plugged in component AND HDMI to my living room set. I was toggling back and forth and both connections were live. Does this mean that I can use both component (on TV #1) and HDMI (TV #2) simultaneously?


No. When the HDMI connection is active, the component connection is disabled. There is a hack you could do that will cause both connections to be active at the same time.
http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb/showthread.php?t=298233


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## Pilot20 (Mar 5, 2005)

You might want to consider a wireless solution such as this...

http://www.rflinkusa.com/products_AVS5811.html

You can get them for around $120 on ebay.

Here is a review on the product...



> To start off with, I had this unit set-up and transmitting a very clear picture across three rooms (~40 feet, same floor) in less than 5 minutes. Over this relatively short range, the digital tv picture is nearly as good as on the main tv. No interference problems whatsoever, and in my situation it doesn't matter much what direction the antennae are facing.
> Of course, YMMV -- some homes have interior wall construction that can drastically reduce the range of wireless devices.
> 
> Additionally:
> ...


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## mitkraft (Feb 21, 2003)

Pilot20 said:


> You might want to consider a wireless solution such as this...
> 
> http://www.rflinkusa.com/products_AVS5811.html
> 
> ...


My philosophy is "Always run wire if you can". Most houses air-waves are crowded enough with any combination of cell phone, cordless phone, WLAN, wireless alarm products (my lazy a#@ installer used wireless door/glass sensors rather than check the walls for the pre-wired ones. I was out of town so wasn't there to supervise) and god knows what else. Most RF based audio or video senders are very quirky and YMMV. My old ones used to interfere with my WLAN. If My wife was on the laptop and watching TV in the bedroom over the RF sender (this was in an Apt. Couldn't run wire) everytime she went to a new webpage you could see the noise in the TV like when someone runs a hair dryer or microwave near one. I'd always go wireless as a last resort. Even my computers are all wired except for the laptops.

You will have a much more trouble free setup when you are done if you take the time to run cable.


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## bwaldron (Mar 16, 2003)

mitkraft said:


> My philosophy is "Always run wire if you can". Most houses air-waves are crowded enough with any combination of cell phone, cordless phone, WLAN, wireless alarm products (my lazy a#@ installer used wireless door/glass sensors rather than check the walls for the pre-wired ones. I was out of town so wasn't there to supervise) and god knows what else. Most RF based audio or video senders are very quirky and YMMV. My old ones used to interfere with my WLAN. If My wife was on the laptop and watching TV in the bedroom over the RF sender (this was in an Apt. Couldn't run wire) everytime she went to a new webpage you could see the noise in the TV like when someone runs a hair dryer or microwave near one. I'd always go wireless as a last resort. Even my computers are all wired except for the laptops.
> 
> You will have a much more trouble free setup when you are done if you take the time to run cable.


I agree with that.

I have used both the 2.4 and 5.8ghz wireless senders. The video quality is quite good. However, as you note, 2.4 is used for wireless LANs, telephones, and microwave ovens...all of which can cause issues (though you might be able to find a "channel" on the video sender that will work). The 5.8ghz versions are better, unless you use 5.8ghz telephones, but seem to be trickier to orient for best reception.

Worth a try if you can't easily run wire and/or you're in a "quiet" wireless environment w/o the devices mentioned above (including what close-by neighbors might be using). Wired is better if possible to do it.


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## gilberto (Feb 22, 2005)

bpratt said:


> No. When the HDMI connection is active, the component connection is disabled. There is a hack you could do that will cause both connections to be active at the same time.
> http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb/showthread.php?t=298233


I don't need both TV's to be on simultaneously. Just one or the other. So with that in mind, would my test mean that my TV is "shutting off" the HDMI when I switch to component and I get a signal?


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## A J Ricaud (Jun 25, 2002)

gilberto said:


> I don't need both TV's to be on simultaneously. Just one or the other. So with that in mind, would my test mean that my TV is "shutting off" the HDMI when I switch to component and I get a signal?


Yes. Some TVs do that.


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## bpratt (Nov 20, 2004)

gilberto said:


> I don't need both TV's to be on simultaneously. Just one or the other. So with that in mind, would my test mean that my TV is "shutting off" the HDMI when I switch to component and I get a signal?


Yes, I have two Sony HDTVs and both work that way.


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## gilberto (Feb 22, 2005)

bpratt said:


> Yes, I have two Sony HDTVs and both work that way.


Great! Now I just need to figure out the best method to get the component signal to the other room with a 50-60 foot run. I'm thinking of trying out a 50 or 75 foot component cable and see what happens before I pick up a powered distribution amp. I was going to go the monoprice route for the cable, but am a bit hesitant with such a long run. Any other suggestions?


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## bpratt (Nov 20, 2004)

gilberto said:


> Great! Now I just need to figure out the best method to get the component signal to the other room with a 50-60 foot run. I'm thinking of trying out a 50 or 75 foot component cable and see what happens before I pick up a powered distribution amp. I was going to go the monoprice route for the cable, but am a bit hesitant with such a long run. Any other suggestions?


I purchased my 50 foot video/audio cable here:

http://www.pacificcable.com/VideoAndAudio.htm#Python_Component_Cables


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## gilberto (Feb 22, 2005)

bpratt said:


> Or, if the TV by the hot tub is HD use a component video/audio HDTV distribution Amp. I use the CE labs AV400COMP to connect my HR10-250 to 2 HDTVs. I use an IR repeater I purchased at Radio Shack to control the HR10-250 from the remote locations.


I got an AV400COMP on ebay and it was DOA. Luckily, the seller is going to refund my money. But it makes me wonder if I should just buy a new one instead of eBay. I notice there are auctions for lots of three, which leads me to believe they are refurbs or DOA as well. Thoughts?


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## bpratt (Nov 20, 2004)

gilberto said:


> I got an AV400COMP on ebay and it was DOA. Luckily, the seller is going to refund my money. But it makes me wonder if I should just buy a new one instead of eBay. I notice there are auctions for lots of three, which leads me to believe they are refurbs or DOA as well. Thoughts?


I purchased a new one from this guy on eBay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/CE-LABS-4-OUTPU...ryZ32833QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem


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## amoneys2k (Nov 2, 2006)

I can vouch for this. We initially bought the Terk Leapfrog 2.4 setup (tried two different versions), but no matter what we did we couldn't get clean audio from more than 10-feet away. I figure it was probably a problem with RF interference since a friend of mine uses the same system with no problems from about 30 feet away and through a wall.

I went with the RF Link 5.8 system and it's easily able to transmit the signal from about 30-40 feet away through 2 walls from my TiVo to the TV by our treadmill. My only complaint mirrors what was said in the review above. Getting the IR repeater to work from that distance is a bit of a challenge. Also, it seems that the range of the video/audio is much better than the IR repeater.

Overall though, PQ is good and the video/audio range is surprising. If you can't reasonably run wires, go with the RF Link.



bwaldron said:


> I have used both the 2.4 and 5.8ghz wireless senders. The video quality is quite good. However, as you note, 2.4 is used for wireless LANs, telephones, and microwave ovens...all of which can cause issues (though you might be able to find a "channel" on the video sender that will work). The 5.8ghz versions are better, unless you use 5.8ghz telephones, but seem to be trickier to orient for best reception.
> 
> Worth a try if you can't easily run wire and/or you're in a "quiet" wireless environment w/o the devices mentioned above (including what close-by neighbors might be using). Wired is better if possible to do it.


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