# Connecting; MoCA



## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

I could really use some guidance.
Setup:
Roamio Pro; x2 Mini; ethernet cable from switch to Roamio Pro)
Use MoCA (ethernet cable from switch runs to Roamio Pro)
The Roamio and both Minis were working fine before the Xfinity tech roll.
This was to resolve a WiFi issue (ironically, it's fixed now)
I'm blind (literally) and unplugged the ethernet cable from the modem to the router, which of course rendered the Minis without connection. I didn't realize my mistake at this time, and switched the Pro from MoCA/Ethernet to WiFi. Which, of course, still left the Minis without a connection, but I changed the connection settings on the Roamio. Once I realized my mistake (unplugging the ethernet cable from the modem to the router), I changed the Roamio settings back to MoCA/Ethernet. But still, the Minis do not have a connection.

I tried (Mini) > RESET DEFAULTS > GUIDED SETUP > NETWORK CONNECTION > MOCA
It attempts to connect, but no luck.

I don't want to continue further, thinking I don't want to f*#k something else up and came here.
Am I missing something? I did NOT rrun guided setup on the Roamio, I only changed the network settings back to MoCA/Ethernet, and switched security key to no security.

No physical connections changed on either Mini.
It's been a day.
Any guidance or direction would be extremely appreciated.
Jeff


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## ThAbtO (Apr 6, 2000)

You need to connect back to the modem and router. They all need internet access. Switching to and from Moca will not help anything since they all require internet to be able to access your devices even though its on the same network.


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

ThAbtO said:


> You need to connect back to the modem and router. They all need internet access. Switching to and from Moca will not help anything since they all require internet to be able to access your devices even though its on the same network.


Ensured the Roamio is connected via coax and ethernet.
After digging up a TiVo help article, Guides|How To|Get Connected| How to connect to your home network I think I need to run the Roamio through Guided Setup once again. It looks like when going through Guided Setup on the Roamio, I need to choose ethernet as connection type. Then after Guided Setup is finished, go back in to Settings and then create the MoCA network.


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## ThAbtO (Apr 6, 2000)

You don't need to run guided setup again unless you're changing tv service providers. 

You can change under settings, network for the proper network connection.


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## kpeters59 (Jun 19, 2007)

I'd _strongly_ recommend against attempting Guided Setup.

There's been multiple examples of TiVo's boot-looping when attempting Guided Setup with the recent Software.

There's a Network Settings section in the TiVo's Menu that you should use to get your TiVo's going again.

Start by simplifying things and build on it.

Just get the Main TiVo reconnected. Once it's properly connected, you should be able to Ping it from another device on your Local Network, or access it's Built-In Webpage at it's listed IP Address.

Then, do 1 of the Mini's. Once it's properly connected, it should also be able to respond to a Ping. Then the next.

-KP


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

kpeters59 said:


> I'd _strongly_ recommend against attempting Guided Setup.
> 
> There's been multiple examples of TiVo's boot-looping when attempting Guided Setup with the recent Software.
> 
> ...


First, I would like to sincerely thank you both for your time and help. It is GREATLY appreciated.
My head is swimming, when I connected the Pro and Minis back in 2013, my memory was better. One point I failed to mention yesterday: both Mini's use a Netgear MoCA adapter. Physical connections to the Mini's have not been changed.

Things I know for certain:
Roamio Pro is displaying broadcast content normally.
Roamio Pro has connection to the internet (I connected to the TiVo service about 15 minutes ago.

The network type current set on the Roamio Pro is MoCA+Ethernet. I'm not 100% positive that is the correct setting I need. I will try to read the Network information you mentioned in your post (I'm literally blind) and see if that can guide me. I will not run Guided Setup on the Pro. Thanks so much for sharing the valuable info.

Jeff
*CORRECTION: NO NETGEAR MOCA ADAPTERS AT EITHER MINI LOCATION, BOTH MINIS ARE CONNECTED VIA COAX ON THE MINI'S TO THE COAX WALL OUTLET*


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

Now I have to open TCP ports for MoCA to work. That's strange, as I'm positive I've never had to do that.
Time for a break, chorizo dip and a margarita or two.


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## kpeters59 (Jun 19, 2007)

The Network 'diagnostics' always say to 'check ports' when things aren't working. It's a Red Herring. It just means somethings not connected properly.

Can you sketch out a diagram of your setup?

-KP


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## ThAbtO (Apr 6, 2000)

If you want the modem or router to be the MoCa host, you can just set the Roamio to either Ethernet or MoCa and not both.

Can you say your location? If you are close enough, I might help out. or use video chat to help.


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## Phil T (Oct 29, 2003)

I don't know if this is relevent or not. Since the recent software updates my minis drop connections to my Bolt every time my router reboots. To get them working again I have to reboot my Bolt. One mini VOX is on Moca cable. The other Mini V1 is on Ethernet.

I noticed this because I was changing routers and testing different configurations. Every time I would reboot a router, minis could not find the Bolt until I rebooted it, even if it had been several hours since the reboot.


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

kpeters59 said:


> The Network 'diagnostics' always say to 'check ports' when things aren't working. It's a Red Herring. It just means somethings not connected properly.
> 
> Can you sketch out a diagram of your setup?
> 
> -KP


My apologies, a sketch from me would be hilariously ...well, horrible. Perhaps I can describe it my blind way.

ARRIS SB8200 (modem)
Wall (coax) outlet > 2-way splitter (Xfinity tech changed the spitter yesterday) > (a) splitter > coax input on modem/ (b) splitter > coax input on Roamio Pro

GOOGLE NEST WIFI (router)
Ethernet (top jack of SB8200) > Google Nest WiFi router ***this connection on the router end is into the port that looks like an earth/world---I'm not certain this is correct

Ethernet port (this jack has a pic/hyroglyphic of a greater, or less than sign with a slash) this is so difficult because I cannot see.
Anyway, this ethernet port runs to a switch.

We have WiFi now (tech roll from yesterday), so I assume the 2 ethernet jack ports on the Google Nest WiFi router are connected properly.

NETGEAR GB SWITCH
1 ethernet cable runs to a Phillips Hue hub (lights work normally via G Assistant)
1 ethernet cable runs to the Roamio Pro TiVo Service Connection has worked at least 5 times today.

Roamio Pro network settings: ethernet: on; WiFi: off; MoCA: on Roamio Pro is set up as a bridge, without encryption

Coax outlet (Mini 1): Coax outlet to coax input on Mini
everything worked fine before Xfinity tech fixed WiFi yesterday. Play live TV, recordings, etc.

Coax outlet (Mini 2): Coax outlet to coax input on Mini. Everything worked infe before the tech roll yesterday.

**After the tech left yesterday, I totally f'd up and changed the network setting on the Roamio Pro to WiFi and turned off MoCA. This setting has been changed, with multiple reboots, TiVo Service Connections.

The Roamio Pro is downstairs, with the modem & router approximatley 18 feet away, across the room. Both Mini's are upstairs. 1 living room; 1 bedroom

I am absolutely humbled and at the mercy of the network/TiVo/MoCA gods.
Sincere thanks,
Jeff


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

ThAbtO said:


> If you want the modem or router to be the MoCa host, you can just set the Roamio to either Ethernet or MoCa and not both.
> 
> Can you say your location? If you are close enough, I might help out. or use video chat to help.


In this crazy year/time in history I don't care about my location. I'm sure all the businesses we spend our money with already know, why not someone trying to help? 
We're in the Blue Springs area in Kansas City. I'd say about a mile and a half north of Lake Lotawana. (64064)

Jeff


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

Phil T said:


> I don't know if this is relevent or not. Since the recent software updates my minis drop connections to my Bolt every time my router reboots. To get them working again I have to reboot my Bolt. One mini VOX is on Moca cable. The other Mini V1 is on Ethernet.
> 
> I noticed this because I was changing routers and testing different configurations. Every time I would reboot a router, minis could not find the Bolt until I rebooted it, even if it had been several hours since the reboot.


Interesting, I'm not certain this is my case. I spoke about the Xfinity tech fixing WiFi issues yesterday... wihtout another lengthy post, our download speed would go from around 300mbps to 0/1/2 every few days. This resulted in a ton of router reboots (Google Nest WiFI) through the Home app, and other reboots via power cable disconnect. Never had an issue with either Mini coming back online.

Sure do appreciate your participation (not sarcasm)
Kind regards,
Jeff


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> In this crazy year/time in history I don't care about my location. I'm sure all the businesses we spend our money with already know, why not someone trying to help?
> We're in the Blue Springs area in Kansas City. I'd say about a mile and a half north of Lake Lotawana. (64064)


I'm just under 4 hours East.


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## ThAbtO (Apr 6, 2000)

skid71 said:


> We're in the Blue Springs area in Kansas City. I'd say about a mile and a half north of Lake Lotawana. (64064)


That rules out a personal visit, if you really need a hand. The only option would be a video chat on a smart phone, if you have one. For example, we can be your eyes and advise you how and where to move objects. But it may seem you are fixed up now, so never mind.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> My apologies, a sketch from me would be hilariously ...well, horrible. Perhaps I can describe it my blind way.


The exception to "a pic is worth a thousand words" maxim, perhaps?



> ARRIS SB8200 (modem)
> Wall (coax) outlet > 2-way splitter (Xfinity tech changed the spitter yesterday) > (a) splitter > coax input on modem/ (b) splitter > coax input on Roamio Pro


Sounds correct, though keep this splitter swapped-out by Comcast in mind should issues persist. A photo of this splitter's label would be helpful in verifying its MoCA compatibility (or hostility).



> GOOGLE NEST WIFI (router)
> Ethernet (top jack of SB8200) > Google Nest WiFi router ***this connection on the router end is into the port that looks like an earth/world---I'm not certain this is correct


It's entirely correct. The "globe" port indicates the Internet connection; that is, the Ethernet connection from the cable modem, in your case.










> Ethernet port (this jack has a pic/hyroglyphic of a greater, or less than sign with a slash) this is so difficult because I cannot see.
> Anyway, this ethernet port runs to a switch.


You've described the symbol accurately --- "<...>" ... as this is the Ethernet port for your Google Nest's LAN; and connecting it to a network switch is the correct move, since you'd like to have more than one device networked.



> We have WiFi now (tech roll from yesterday), so I assume the 2 ethernet jack ports on the Google Nest WiFi router are connected properly.


Well, at least the "globe"/Internet port is, since that's all you'd need for your wireless devices to have a successful Internet connection. (Unless your Nest devices are connected to each other via your Ethernet LAN, that is. TBD for me.)



> NETGEAR GB SWITCH
> 1 ethernet cable runs to a Phillips Hue hub (lights work normally via G Assistant)
> 1 ethernet cable runs to the Roamio Pro TiVo Service Connection has worked at least 5 times today.
> 
> Roamio Pro network settings: ethernet: on; WiFi: off; MoCA: on Roamio Pro is set up as a bridge, without encryption


This all seems correct and good. (Normally, I'd ask if you can check and report the specific model number of your Netgear Gigabit Switch, in order to check whether it's a model prone to TiVo connectivity issues related to the IGMP Snooping setting, but since your TiVo boxes should only be communicating with each other via coax/MoCA, the IGMP Snooping issue should be moot.)

edit: The Philips Hue connectivity doubly confirms that your main Ethernet switch is connected correctly.



> Coax outlet (Mini 1): Coax outlet to coax input on Mini
> everything worked fine before Xfinity tech fixed WiFi yesterday. Play live TV, recordings, etc.
> 
> Coax outlet (Mini 2): Coax outlet to coax input on Mini. Everything worked infe before the tech roll yesterday.


Simple enough, and sounds correct ... but the devil is in the details between the rooms, including how the rooms interconnect and through what component(s); whether the Comcast tech disconnected the coax runs to your rooms with Minis (it's happened to others in the past); and/or whether the Comcast tech either removed or relocated your "PoE" (Point-of-Entry) MoCA filter, potentially blocking your MoCA connectivity or impacting MoCA connectivity.

This last bit of missing info is critical, but I'll come back to this, below, after making one troubleshooting suggestion.



> **After the tech left yesterday, I totally f'd up and changed the network setting on the Roamio Pro to WiFi and turned off MoCA. This setting has been changed, with multiple reboots, TiVo Service Connections.


It sounds like you've managed to restore the Roamio Pro to its correct settings (Ethernet w/ MoCA bridging), so that shouldn't be an issue at this point. Your detailed description above sounds correct, for the locations described, so assuming everything is correctly interconnected but still not connecting, I'd recommend *trying a full power reset of your gear* (all network and TiVo boxes).

To do a full power reset, you'll want to power down all your devices and leave them ALL off for a few minutes, and then bring them back online, one-at-a-time, in the order shown:

modem
router
network switches
Roamio Pro
standalone MoCA adapters
TiVo Minis
This may not resolve your issues, but it has resolved MoCA stubbornness in the past for some.

-----
However, *IF* the full power reset doesn't get you going, I'd start to lean towards something having changed (with the assist of a Comcast technician) in your coax plant. Assuming so, I'd recommend trying to determine whether your Mini rooms are still connected to your coax plant, whether and where you have a "PoE" MoCA filter installed, and through what component(s) your coax runs interconnect. How to do all this can be discussed if the full power reset fails to revive your MoCA setup.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

ThAbtO said:


> But it may seem you are fixed up now, so never mind.


???

Did I miss where the OP said that their issue has been resolved?


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

ThAbtO said:


> If you want the modem or router to be the MoCa host, you can just set the Roamio to either Ethernet or MoCa and not both.


With just the SB8200 modem (only) and Google Nest router to work with, the Roamio Pro is the only option for the MoCA/Ethernet bridge ... short of an unmentioned device in the OP's inventory, or acquisition of a standalone MoCA adapter.


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## ThAbtO (Apr 6, 2000)

krkaufman said:


> ???
> 
> Did I miss where the OP said that their issue has been resolved?


I might have misread his post and thought he had a tech come fix it.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

ThAbtO said:


> I might have misread his post and thought he had a tech come fix it.


This comment...


skid71 said:


> I spoke about the Xfinity tech fixing WiFi issues yesterday...


... alluded to the Comcast tech fixing their wildly inconsistent wireless performance, yesterday, after which the OP's TiVo/MoCA connectivity was lost. My money is on some change to the coax plant to fix the Internet/wireless performance, either a hostile component added or the Mini locations having been disconnected.


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## ThAbtO (Apr 6, 2000)

I am not even sure if I can help out via video chat. I don't even know if he has a smart phone to do it. Otherwise I was thinking of using Google meet.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

krkaufman said:


> Assuming so, I'd recommend trying to determine whether your Mini rooms are still connected to your coax plant


If you can't find or get to your central coax junction ... Assuming you can spare a short bit of Internet downtime, you can do a basic test of connectivity for your Mini locations by temporarily moving your SB8200 cable modem to each Mini location and test whether the modem is able to reach sync with the ISP (when directly connected to the coax wall outlet at each location). If the modem never finds the Internet signal, it points toward the likelihood that the Comcast tech disconnected those coax runs.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

ThAbtO said:


> I am not even sure if I can help out via video chat. I don't even know if he has a smart phone to do it. Otherwise I was thinking of using Google meet.


Let's hope it doesn't come to that. xx xx


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> Roamio Pro network settings: ethernet: on; WiFi: off; MoCA: on Roamio Pro is set up as a bridge, without encryption
> 
> Coax outlet (Mini 1): Coax outlet to coax input on Mini
> everything worked fine before Xfinity tech fixed WiFi yesterday. Play live TV, recordings, etc.
> ...


One other configuration issue possibility to investigate (as opposed to a physical coax plant issue) is reconfiguring the Minis to match the MoCA settings of the Roamio Pro (e.g. setting channel to "Auto" and making sure privacy/encryption is disabled), rather than assuming that the Mini configuration is the same as the DVR.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

krkaufman said:


> Simple enough, and sounds correct ... but the devil is in the details between the rooms, including how the rooms interconnect and through what component(s); whether the Comcast tech disconnected the coax runs to your rooms with Minis (it's happened to others in the past); and/or whether the Comcast tech either removed or relocated your "PoE" (Point-of-Entry) MoCA filter, potentially blocking your MoCA connectivity or impacting MoCA connectivity.


One other change the Comcast tech may have made would be replacing a passive splitter at your drop with a powered amplifier, in order to boost the signal at your cable modem - noting that some amplifiers are hostile to MoCA signals and can block/impede their transmission.

So, if the "soft" troubleshooting steps fail (full power reset, redoing Mini MoCA setup), you'll definitely want to investigate the make-up of your central coax junction. (If/when you get to that point, taking/posting a pic of what you find may facilitate troubleshooting.)


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

krkaufman said:


> The exception to "a pic is worth a thousand words" maxim, perhaps?
> 
> Sounds correct, though keep this splitter swapped-out by Comcast in mind should issues persist. A photo of this splitter's label would be helpful in verifying its MoCA compatibility (or hostility).


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## mdavej (Aug 13, 2015)

That's not a Moca capable splitter.


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

krkaufman said:


> This comment...
> ​... alluded to the Comcast tech fixing their wildly inconsistent wireless performance, yesterday, after which the OP's TiVo/MoCA connectivity was lost. My money is on some change to the coax plant to fix the Internet/wireless performance, either a hostile component added or the Mini locations having been disconnected.


My apologies for my lack of multi-quoting.
- posted a pic of the splitter
- powering my network down & up will follow reading the remainder of posts.
- I feel like an idiot, I should have explained my TV network to the tech (a very young man).

I'm really feeling like the tech and his actions at the box where the cable drop goes (not sure what the technical term for it is) is the cause of our issues.
Power cycling up next.


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

ThAbtO said:


> I am not even sure if I can help out via video chat. I don't even know if he has a smart phone to do it. Otherwise I was thinking of using Google meet.


My apologies for not responding earlier.
Yes, I am an Android user (Pixel2XL)
I feel comfortable with tech, I'm my Mom's & in-laws tech person, I'd rate my tech-savvyness at a 4/10 maybe.

My blindness is not total. I can see light/dark, and under very specific lighting conditions (extreme contrast) can see things. It can be challenging to describe.


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

krkaufman said:


> If you can't find or get to your central coax junction ... Assuming you can spare a short bit of Internet downtime, you can do a basic test of connectivity for your Mini locations by temporarily moving your SB8200 cable modem to each Mini location and test whether the modem is able to reach sync with the ISP (when directly connected to the coax wall outlet at each location). If the modem never finds the Internet signal, it points toward the likelihood that the Comcast tech disconnected those coax runs.


Should be easy enough to check. I would assume the lights on the front of the modem would confirm that theory by changing those light colors, or no lights on the modem. I can ask the Mrs help me determine the modem light config


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> - I feel like an idiot, I should have explained my TV network to the tech (a very young man).
> ...
> I'm really feeling like the tech and his actions at the box where the cable drop goes (not sure what the technical term for it is) is the cause of our issues.


Yeah, if he wasn't aware of the MoCA network, there's a good chance that he improved your signal to your cable modem by eliminating what he considered wasteful coax connections in the cable/junction box. If you're in a home, you may be able to locate this box and, if it's not locked, snap/post a photo of its contents.



skid71 said:


> Should be easy enough to check. I would assume the lights on the front of the modem would confirm that theory by changing those light colors, or no lights on the modem.


Exactly correct.

At least the top 3 status LEDs on the modem should reach a state where they're lit-up solid (not flashing) if the modem can communicate with the ISP (i.e. its wall outlet has a connection to the ISP). I'm uncertain as to whether the "globe" status LED on the modem requires a connection to a router, which would be unnecessary for what you're testing.

SB8200 LED Info: https://arris.secure.force.com/consumers/articles/General_FAQs/SB8200-LED-Light-Status/?l=en_US


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

krkaufman said:


> One other change the Comcast tech may have made would be replacing a passive splitter at your drop with a powered amplifier, in order to boost the signal at your cable modem - noting that some amplifiers are hostile to MoCA signals and can block/impede their transmission.



Anything is possible of course. 


krkaufman said:


> One other change the Comcast tech may have made would be replacing a passive splitter at your drop with a powered amplifier, in order to boost the signal at your cable modem - noting that some amplifiers are hostile to MoCA signals and can block/impede their transmission.
> 
> So, if the "soft" troubleshooting steps fail (full power reset, redoing Mini MoCA setup), you'll definitely want to investigate the make-up of your central coax junction. (If/when you get to that point, taking/posting a pic of what you find may facilitate troubleshooting.)


At this point I truly feel I dropped the ball in not explaining our home television network to the technician. I was too focused on resolving the WiFi issue and completely failed to keep the MoCA network in mind. I hope my misstep helps someone out in the future.


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

mdavej said:


> That's not a Moca capable splitter.


Could someone link me/suggest a 2-way MoCA friendly splitter? Or would I be better served asking Comcast for this, since it's feeling like another tech roll is inevitable.


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## snerd (Jun 6, 2008)

Looks like 5 or 6 of the cables going to other rooms have been disconnected in the junction box.


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## mdavej (Aug 13, 2015)

skid71 said:


> Could someone link me/suggest a 2-way MoCA friendly splitter? Or would I be better served asking Comcast for this, since it's feeling like another tech roll is inevitable.


As Snerd said, most of your wiring has been disconnected, thus have no signal at all going to any of your rooms except one. So you're going to have to get professional help on this to figure what wire goes to what room.

As for the splitter, there is a line on the label that says "5-1002 MHz". That top number is important for Moca. It needs to be 1625 or higher. Any 2 GHz (gigahertz) splitter you google should work fine.

Given the state of your wiring, I personally wouldn't even attempt to get Moca working on your own. Get a couple of power line ethernet adapters and call it a day, if you can't run or use any ethernet cables.


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

Mini #1; living room
Disconnected coax from Mini, plugged into modem, then powered modem up. Second light down continued to blink until I powered the modem off again. According to the SB8200 chart @krkauf linked me to, the modem stayed in a "scanning for a downstream (receive) channel Internet connection.

Mini #2; master bedroom
Same as Mini #1
Can 100% confirm the 2nd light blinked the entire time the modem was connected at each location, which was appox. 15 minutes.

Yeah, opening TCP ports isn't going to cure what ails me.


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

mdavej said:


> As Snerd said, most of your wiring has been disconnected, thus have no signal at all going to any of your rooms except one. So you're going to have to get professional help on this to figure what wire goes to what room.
> 
> As for the splitter, there is a line on the label that says "5-1002 MHz". That top number is important for Moca. It needs to be 1625 or higher. Any 2 GHz (gigahertz) splitter you google should work fine.
> 
> Given the state of your wiring, I personally wouldn't even attempt to get Moca working on your own. Get a couple of power line ethernet adapters and call it a day, if you can't run or use any ethernet cables.


The WiFi situation I referred to earlier in the thread is an issue I've been putting off dealing with for a long time, because of my hesitancy to involve Comcast. Ideally, I would prefer not dealing with them. But I'm ready to suck it up if necessary.
It may be a bit out of the scope of this site, but would you be so kind as to describe how a powerline adapter works, if it would be "easy" for me (the blind thing) to install, and if you think it would be a solid/stable solution?

I sincerely appreiate everyone's time and assistance with this.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> View attachment 52680


Ouch. Yeah, looks like the tech disconnected all your other coax runs and just linked directly to your cable modem & DVR location.

In your setup, I'd recommend giving the Amphenol hybrid splitter for MoCA ($7 on Amazon) a try, replacing that gray block of coax ports in your junction box. Since your junction box is unlocked, you should be able to implement that change, yourself, unless you're not up for it or just want Comcast to fix *their* mistake. (Note that this hybrid splitter precludes the need for a separate "PoE" MoCA filter, so the MoCA filter pictured in your cable box could be stored for some possible future need.)

An alternative to the single hybrid splitter mentioned above would be using a 2-way splitter (with a "PoE" MoCA filter on its input) to direct the cable signal to the modem/DVR location's coax run and to another splitter within the junction box sized to support just the coax runs that you need connected. (I don't recommend using that gray block of coax ports for your 2nd splitter servicing your MoCA locations, but you could certainly try it.)

As for other recommended "designed for MoCA" splitters, the Holland GHS-PRO-M series and the newer series coming from Amphenol Broadband Solutions (of which Holland is now a part) are preferred, owing to their being explicitly designed for MoCA and readily available (see here). That said, even that not-specifically-designed-for-MoCA 2-way splitter at the modem/DVR location would likely suffice ... once your cables aren't disconnected.

---

In the meantime (while waiting for any new parts to arrive), if you want to identify your critical coax runs (those to your Mini locations), you can use the cable modem test described earlier and connect each currently unused coax run, one at a time, directly to the incoming cable line until the cable modem is able to come online. (And then label that coax line with it's end location!)


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

mdavej said:


> So you're going to have to get professional help on this to figure what wire goes to what room.


Nah, just do the cable modem test as described previously, when you can stomach an Internet outage and have someone else* to assist with the cable dis-/re-connections out in the cable/junction box or monitoring the cable modem status lights as the lines are swapped.

* This test *can* be managed solo, of course, either with a lot of walking back-and-forth, or using a pair of mobile devices to remotely monitor the cable modem status lights via your video chat app of choice. (Though I'm wondering whether any video chat apps will work if/when you have your cable modem disconnected, even if the router remains online.)


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> Mini #1; living room
> Disconnected coax from Mini, plugged into modem, then powered modem up. Second light down continued to blink until I powered the modem off again. According to the SB8200 chart @krkauf linked me to, the modem stayed in a "scanning for a downstream (receive) channel Internet connection.
> 
> Mini #2; master bedroom
> ...


Chuckle, I'd have been exceedingly surprised if these cable modem tests had worked given the photo you posted of your junction box!!


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## mdavej (Aug 13, 2015)

Powerline is super easy. Plug one brick into the wall at each Mini and attach ethernet cable from brick to Mini. Plug another brick into the wall by the router and attach ethernet cable from brick to router. But there is a chance that powerline won't work.

Otherwise you have to replace the distribution block in the box and reconnect everything the cable guy disconnected on his last visit like Kaufman said.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

> As for the splitter, there is a line on the label that says "5-1002 MHz". That top number is important for Moca. It needs to be 1625 or higher. Any 2 GHz (gigahertz) splitter you google should work fine.
> 
> Given the state of your wiring, I personally wouldn't even attempt to get Moca working on your own. Get a couple of power line ethernet adapters and call it a day, if you can't run or use any ethernet cables.


@skid71 , even though they're not explicitly spec'd for MoCA, due to how the MoCA technology was designed, it's quite possible that you do not NEED to replace either that 2-way splitter at the modem/DVR location *or* the gray block 8-way splitter out in your junction box.

If you have a single *spare 2-way splitter *available (spec-d for at least 1002 MHz), you could test the suggested changes out in the junction box and possibly get both your Internet and TiVo setups working again:

label the coax run (to the modem/DVR location), so you know which line it is (for later reconnection);
the orange incoming cable line should remain connected to the "PoE" MoCA filter, as currently pictured;
remove the ground block from the setup, moving the grounding wire from the ground block to the spare 2-way splitter;

install the spare 2-way splitter at the "PoE" MoCA filter location, with the MoCA filter attached to the 2-way's input port;
connect the modem/DVR coax run to one output of the newly installed 2-way splitter in the junction box;
connect the other output of the new 2-way splitter to the input port of the gray block 8-way splitter already in the junction box;
connect all the currently disconnected coax runs to the available output ports of the 8-way splitter. (Note that you'll end up with one output port with nothing connected: 5 coax runs, 2 ports terminated, and 1 port needing a terminator ... but this is just a test, so the termination of that one port isn't critical.)
This test setup would be similar to what previously worked for MoCA, but with the cable modem receiving 4x the signal strength than when it was connected via the 8-way (I'm assuming based on 6 ports of the 8-way being previously used) -- though 1/2 the signal strength of the post-tech-visit direct run.

---

But however you proceed, whether DIY or having Comcast come back out, *MoCA will work fine for you* (since it was working great before!) and is a vastly superior solution to Powerline. That said, Powerline could be a consideration for providing wired network connectivity to some location in your home, but, even then, it'd be a later resort after evaluating whether Ethernet, MoCA or a wireless bridge was possible/suitable.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

mdavej said:


> Otherwise you have to replace the distribution block in the box and reconnect everything the cable guy disconnected on his last visit like Kaufman said.


As the OP noted early on, their MoCA setup worked fine before the tech visit, so that gray 8-way distribution block in the junction box didn't prevent MoCA connectivity, and so should still work for allowing MoCA connectivity. The OP just needs to split the difference and get the maximum signal possible to the cable modem, using a 2-way splitter in the junction box, and then reconnect their other coax lines to the 8-way.

If even the 2-way split of the incoming cable signal puts the cable signal strength at the modem below spec, then the homeowner (@skid71) will need to contact Comcast to provide a MoCA-compatible powered drop amplifier ... to support both the Internet service and the customer's MoCA LAN network -- just as they would for an X1 whole home setup.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

Ummm... one more twist to consider, given that you're using a DOCSIS 3.1 cable modem with an active MoCA network.

DOCSIS 3.1 and MoCA frequencies overlap...

DOCSIS 3.1 (phase 1 rollout): 5-1218 MHz
MOCA: 1125-1675 MHz​... and so some have seen an active MoCA network interfere with their modem's performance. (Theoretically the modem is struggling to interpret the MoCA signals as DOCSIS 3.1, causing failure.) The issue is known:

MoCA vs DOCSIS 3.1: Whose Spectrum Is It?
DOCSIS 3.0/3.1 Cable Modems and MOCA
Comcast Wraps Up DOCSIS 3.1 Rollout | Light Reading

The solutions/workarounds include any one of the following:

Having a *dedicated coax *run to the modem, to keep the DOCSIS 3.1 and MoCA signals separated. This would be preferred but is often not possible, given most homes have just a single coax run to each room/location; however, some homes with Cat*/Ethernet wiring can accomplish the isolation by relocating the main MoCA/Ethernet bridge to another location with both coax connectivity and an Ethernet connection to the router's LAN.

Installing an *additional MoCA filter* (e.g.) on the modem's coax input port -- distinct from the separate MoCA filter required at the home's point-of-entry/PoE -- to block any MoCA signals from reaching the modem. One consideration for this workaround is whether the cable provider is actually using DOCSIS 3.1 frequencies above 1002 MHz for the Internet service, frequencies that would be blocked by installing a MoCA filter on the modem's input port. (Typically, providers are still only using frequencies below 1002 MHz for DOCSIS 3.1, but it's the modem seeing/receiving the MoCA signals that is problematic.)

*NOTE: *Given that your CURRENT setup pictured includes a "PoE" MoCA filter on the incoming cable line, installing another MoCA filter on the cable modem would be the simplest workaround to avoid MoCA signals interfering with your modem. (i.e. Comcast can't be using frequencies above 1002 MHz for the DOCSIS 3.1 Internet connection, since those frequencies would be blocked by the "PoE" MoCA filter as currently installed.) The only roadblock is having a second MoCA filter available -- though you could grab one at the nearest Comcast office for free, or via Amazon.

*Customizing the MoCA network settings* to use a frequency (channel) above the DOCSIS 3.1 frequency range, and so avoiding aggravating the cable modem. Given the following center channel frequencies for each of a Roamio Pro's configurable MoCA 1.1 channels...
15: 1150 MHz (D1)
17: 1200 MHz (D2)
19: 1250 MHz (D3)
21: 1300 MHz (D4)
23: 1350 MHz (D5)
*25: 1400 MHz (D6)*
27: 1450 Mhz (D7)
29: 1500 MHz (D8)​
... I'd suggest configuring your Roamio Pro to try using channel 25 (center channel 1400 MHz) when setting it up as the MoCA bridge, and then either configuring your Minis for the same channel number or "Auto."

One caveat with this approach, adjusting the MoCA frequency upward, is that attenuation/loss increases in coax components as frequencies rise, so use of higher frequencies for a MoCA network begins to increase the importance of using coax components (splitters, primarily) explicitly spec'd for MoCA.​Of course, none of this matters until the Mini locations are again connected.

p.s. It's possible that all your wireless/modem issues you've been experiencing were due to this MoCA/DOCSIS 3.1 conflict, rather than a signal strength issue at the modem location -- and that the modem/wireless instability could return if/when the MoCA network becomes operational again, unless one of the above workaround measures is taken.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

Just to be clear on the components in the junction box (and hoping you can read the annotations)...

"PoE" MoCA filter
ground block
grounding wire


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

Ugh... so I finally took a closer look at the junction box pic, and now see that the 8-way component is not a passive splitter but a powered amplifier, somewhat complicating matters -- at least in terms of using a 2-way splitter in the junction box to feed the modem/DVR coax line *and* then this 8-way. I'm not confident that MoCA signals would successfully pass between the amplfier's input and output ports.

So, the previously suggested workaround of using a 2-way w/ this 8-way to get things working again needs to be amended to instead using an unbalanced 3-way splitter (e.g.), alone, in the junction box, or 2 2-way splitters (allowing reconnection of only the Mini locations with the modem/DVR location). That is, as a test, at least until the Amphenol hybrid splitter could be acquired ... which would allow moving the current MoCA filter from the PoE to the modem.

p.s. Near as I can tell it's a CommScope amp, based on the tiny bit I can see of the label, but I haven't yet found a matching image on the interwebs.

A side mystery is where the power adapter for the amplifier is located, and whether the Comcast tech left it plugged-in ... or took it with him.


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

I'm 49, and didn't think my memory was slipping, it's coming back to me.
I installed a PoE filter (a MoCA friendly, specific coax splitter...correct?) in the junction box years ago, probably 2013 when we purchased our Pro and 2 Minis. I would bet the tech replaced that splitter in the junction box with a new one Friday (I cannot see anything in the junction box picture, except for a white, unconnected coax cable) He certainly replaced the 2-way splitter directly after the coax entry in to the house (wall plate)

Forgive my obtuseness @krkaufman but it seems you are suggesting the possibility of fixing this myself/with help, and not need to have Comcast come out and try to explain, etc., with the possibility it doesn't get fixed. I'd prefer to do it myself, but I'd be open to Comcast coming out again.

I'm still trying to wrap my mind around your scenarios, but would this work?:
Is the "gray block" the 8-way splitter in the junction box?
If so, could I replace the gray block with a MoCA friendly, 3-way spitter (PoE filter?) that could provide signal to :
1 Coax entry point as described above (which is then connected to the modem)
2 Coax outlet at Mini location #1
3 Loax outlet at Mini location #2
If this is possible, maybe it would mitigate any loss of signal

I would also need to get a MoCA friendly 2-way splitter for the coax entry point; 1 split to modem, the other to Roamio Pro. If this is possible, my preference would be to get the correct items I need even if it takes some time to receive them. I don't mind running back and forth, and up and down stairs as many times as it takes as long as the job is done right.

I'll stop there, since if this isn't possible, there isn't any point in asking further questions.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

Re: the amplifier...

FWIW, it appears to be a CommScope SVA15158AFRSVP 8-port (passive VOIP) model. Specs >here<.

Images:












​


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

krkaufman said:


> A side mystery is where the power adapter for the amplifier is located, and whether the Comcast tech left it plugged-in ... or took it with him.




I hope quoting etiquette allows me to edit your post.
I can answer the amplifier question. That amplifer was previously plugged into the garage, on the same wall that shares the junction box location. I can no longer remember the "why" of it, but I unpluged it several years ago. I'd like to get rid of it, but that is for another discussion.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> Is the "gray block" the 8-way splitter in the junction box?


Yes, though I now realize that it's a powered amplifier, rather than a simple passive splitter.



skid71 said:


> If so, could I replace the gray block with a MoCA friendly, 3-way spitter (PoE filter?) that could provide signal to :
> 1 Coax entry point as described above (which is then connected to the modem)
> 2 Coax outlet at Mini location #1
> 3 Loax outlet at Mini location #2
> ...


Yes, the configuration you suggest (with a couple tweaks/notes) could work, and is one I just added, on realizing that the 8-way in the junction box is actually an amplifier. It's just a matter of whether halving the signal strength coming to the modem will affect its link.

Tweaks/notes to your suggestion:

Be sure to use an unbalanced 3-way splitter (e.g.) in the junction box, to ensure the maximum signal strength is sent to the modem (connecting the modem/DVR run to the low-loss -3.7dB output).
Sidebar: An unbalanced 3-way is effectively a pair of cascaded 2-ways, allowing one output port to have the loss of a single 2-way split, -3.7dB, and the other 2 outputs having the combined loss of 2 2-way splitters, -7.3dB.​
Connect the grounding wire to the 3-way splitter.

Install the "PoE" MoCA filter on the 3-way splitter's input port. (The MoCA filter is the long metal cylinder currently installed between your orange incoming cable line and your grounding block, to which the green grounding wire is connected.)
Critically, if you have a spare 2-way splitter currently on-hand (or even a 3-way), you can quickly test whether this additional split of the coax, and associated signal loss, will affect your cable modem's connectivity ... even before worrying about MoCA compatibility of the components and getting all those parts ordered and in place. If fact, at this point, with the additional split of the signal in place, be sure to test your modem's connectivity BEFORE reactivating the MoCA network, in case it is the MoCA network, itself, that has been the root of the DOCSIS 3.1 modem's instability.

If your modem can't reliably connect w/ the additional split added, then I see a couple alternatives, but we can address those as needed.


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## ThAbtO (Apr 6, 2000)

skid71 said:


> Yes, I am an Android user (Pixel2XL)


One advantage of using a phone as your eyes, is it can be slipped behind and around tight spaces, behind devices, where you cannot get around to see and only can feel. It can also provide light in those dark places.


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## ThAbtO (Apr 6, 2000)

skid71 said:


> the modem


The pic does not show the bottom light on as that is the internet detection.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

ThAbtO said:


> The pic does not show the bottom light on as that is the internet detection.


For the tests described in the quoted post, the "globe"/Internet light being off is moot, since the modem didn't get beyond the 2nd LED ("Receive") flashing, not having a connection to the ISP signal.







​
That said, I *am* curious as to when the 4th LED becomes lit. If it's like my modem, it only lights-up once the router is powered on and connected to the modem's Ethernet port.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> I installed a PoE filter (a MoCA friendly, specific coax splitter...correct?) in the junction box years ago, probably 2013 when we purchased our Pro and 2 Minis. I would bet the tech replaced that splitter in the junction box with a new one Friday (I cannot see anything in the junction box picture, except for a white, unconnected coax cable)


Your "PoE" MoCA filter (the long, metal cylinder between the incoming cable line and the ground block) remains in place, and it will need to stay in place unless you opt for the Amphenol hybrid splitter in your final solution.

As for what changed in the junction box, it looks like the Comcast tech just bypassed the 8-way amplifier and direct-connected the orange incoming cable line with the single coax run to the modem & DVR, disconnecting all 5 of your other coax runs in the process. Though... not having a pic of the "before times," it's possible that there was some other splitter in the junction box that the Comcast tech removed, as opposed to my assumption that the coax lines were all previously connected to the 8-way amplifier.


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

krkaufman said:


> Yes, though I now realize that it's a powered amplifier, rather than a simple passive splitter.
> 
> Yes, the configuration you suggest (with a couple tweaks/notes) could work, and is one I just added, on realizing that the 8-way in the junction box is actually an amplifier. It's just a matter of whether halving the signal strength coming to the modem will affect its link.
> 
> ...


There is a lot to dissect here.
Question #1: After the tech left Friday, before the Mini revelation, I did several speed tests and all were around 400mbps roughly. Since that time, after enabling the Roamio Pro to act as a MoCA bridge, all speedtests taken are at roughly 90mbps, give or take a few. I know we're dealing with 2 separate issues here, but could enabling the Pro to act as a MoCA bridge be the cause of going from 400mbps to 90-ish mbps? I know it's crazy, but that drastic of a drop has my OCD-ish mind thinking too much.
Guess we should start there first if you don't mind.


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

krkaufman said:


> For the tests described in the quoted post, the "globe"/Internet light being off is moot, since the modem didn't get beyond the 2nd LED ("Receive") flashing, not having a connection to the ISP signal.
> 
> View attachment 52691
> ​
> That said, I *am* curious as to when the 4th LED becomes lit. If it's like my modem, it only lights-up once the router is powered on and connected to the modem's Ethernet port.


On this modem, the bottom light stays on fully (not blinking) whether or not the router is connected.


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## ThAbtO (Apr 6, 2000)

skid71 said:


> There is a lot to dissect here.
> Question #1: After the tech left Friday, before the Mini revelation, I did several speed tests and all were around 400mbps roughly. Since that time, after enabling the Roamio Pro to act as a MoCA bridge, all speedtests taken are at roughly 90mbps, give or take a few. I know we're dealing with 2 separate issues here, but could enabling the Pro to act as a MoCA bridge be the cause of going from 400mbps to 90-ish mbps? I know it's crazy, but that drastic of a drop has my OCD-ish mind thinking too much.
> Guess we should start there first if you don't mind.


Is this speed all from the wifi? Wifi can get interference that will slow down network traffic, even stop it completely. For this, I do not let the router choose the wifi/wireless channel. It would almost always choose the channels with the most interference. I choose channel 11, even though all my neighboring wifi is also on channel 11. It does not have interference even from the other wifi. Perhaps due to WPA2.


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

ThAbtO said:


> Is this speed all from the wifi? Wifi can get interference that will slow down network traffic, even stop it completely. For this, I do not let the router choose the wifi/wireless channel. It would almost always choose the channels with the most interference. I choose channel 11, even though all my neighboring wifi is also on channel 11. It does not have interference even from the other wifi. Perhaps due to WPA2.


Yes, the speedtests were all wifi. It's just odd that Friday all speedtests were between 390mbps - 450mbps and from Saturday until now, all speedtests are consistently 88-95mbps. I'll have to investigate how to change channels on our router. I was just thinking that the DOCSIS 3.1 / MoCA not playing nicely...maybe enabling MoCA bridge on the Roamio Pro could explain that drastic difference. If going through all thiss for MoCA, but at 90mbps, or 3 or 4 times that speed without MoCA, then there is a decision tot be made.


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## ThAbtO (Apr 6, 2000)

Among devices in a typical home that can cause interference on Wifi are Microwaves, cordless landline phones, radios. Mostly anything on the 2.4GHz (5GHz in AC/5G) range. They would need to kept at least 3 feet away from the wifi connecting devices, router, computer, etc. The effects are that you may still get a strong signal, but when the network is access for anything, even the internet, then the traffic drops.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> There is a lot to dissect here.
> Question #1: After the tech left Friday, before the Mini revelation, I did several speed tests and all were around 400mbps roughly. Since that time, after enabling the Roamio Pro to act as a MoCA bridge, all speedtests taken are at roughly 90mbps, give or take a few. I know we're dealing with 2 separate issues here, but could enabling the Pro to act as a MoCA bridge be the cause of going from 400mbps to 90-ish mbps? I know it's crazy, but that drastic of a drop has my OCD-ish mind thinking too much.
> Guess we should start there first if you don't mind.


No question. Nothing should be attempted until the cable modem & router connection is stable.

Obviously, you should test your network thoroughly with MoCA disabled on the Roamio Pro, then see if performance changes with MoCA enabled. If performance *is* affected by simply enabling MoCA, you could see if the performance stabilizes by installing a MoCA filter on the modem's coax input port. (You could *temporarily* move your MoCA filter from the junction box if you only have the one.)


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

krkaufman said:


> No question. Nothing should be attempted until the cable modem & router connection is stable.
> 
> Obviously, you should test your network thoroughly with MoCA disabled on the Roamio Pro, then see if performance changes with MoCA enabled. If performance *is* affected by simply enabling MoCA, you could see if the performance stabilizes by installing a MoCA filter on the modem's coax input port. (You could *temporarily* move your MoCA filter from the junction box if you only have the one.)


I'll test disabling MoCA on the Pro, to see if there is any effect, and also try the PoE filter.
Guess depending on those results, rolling back to the Arris SB6183 (DO SIS 3.0) is an option.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> I'll test disabling MoCA on the Pro, to see if there is any effect, and also try the PoE filter.
> Guess depending on those results, rolling back to the Arris SB6183 (DO SIS 3.0) is an option.


Rolling back to your prior modem shouldn't be necessary, at least not permanently*; though, it's worth noting that the DOCSIS 3.0 SB6183 includes a built-in "MoCA reject filter," to protect the modem from MoCA signals. (specs here)

The SB6183's built-in "MoCA reject filter" performs the same function as installing an actual MoCA filter on the coax input.

* If you only have the one MoCA filter, at present, it might make sense to temporarily rollback to the SB6183, then swap back to the SB8200 once you can get a MoCA filter installed on its input (without stealing the filter from the PoE).


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> Yes, the speedtests were all wifi.


I agree that the speed diffs seem odd, but I *would* recommend trying to test via a PC or laptop hard-wired via Ethernet to the router, to eliminate wireless variance.


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

krkaufman said:


> Rolling back to your prior modem shouldn't be necessary, at least not permanently*; though, it's worth noting that the DOCSIS 3.0 SB6183 includes a built-in "MoCA reject filter," to protect the modem from MoCA signals. (specs here)
> 
> The SB6183's built-in "MoCA reject filter" performs the same function as installing an actual MoCA filter on the coax input.
> 
> * If you only have the one MoCA filter, at present, it might make sense to temporarily rollback to the SB6183, then swap back to the SB8200 once you can get a MoCA filter installed on its input (without stealing the filter from the PoE).


Any chance you have a link for a PoE filter?


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

krkaufman said:


> I agree that the speed diffs seem odd, but I *would* recommend trying to test via a PC or laptop hard-wired via Ethernet to the router, to eliminate wireless variance.


Copy, hardwired to the router, not the modern. More testing tomorrow.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> Copy, hardwired to the router, not the modern. More testing tomorrow.


Well, being connected via Ethernet wired to the router's LAN, rather than a wireless connection to the router, is the key difference. You just don't want some other possible undiagnosed wireless issue confusing the results.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> Any chance you have a link for a PoE filter?


Sure. But if rolling back to the SB6183, temporarily, you may want to hold off on ordering the MoCA filter until you know just what parts you need. (As mentioned above, if you opted for the Amphenol hybrid splitter for your junction box, $6.95 via Amazon, you wouldn't need to buy a second MoCA filter. If it wasn't clear, I'm leaning towards this hybrid splitter being all you need.)

Some "PoE" MoCA filters... $5.45 via Amazon, various via TechToolSupply.

MoCA splitters:

Amphenol 7-port hybrid (3 mixed, 4 MoCA-only): $6.95 via Amazon
2-way: $2.29 via TechToolSupply, $8.99 via Amazon, $7.21 via Amazon, $6.25 via Amazon
3-way unbalanced: $4.79 via TechToolSupply, $3.49 via TTS, $7.89 via Amazon
p.s. It never hurts to have some spare 75-ohm terminators about, to clean-up those unused coax ports. (29c per via TechToolSupply, $7-9 for 10-25 via Amazon)


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

Laptop (Win7) connected to the router via ethernet:
89.8 mbps
Pixel 2 XL connected to wifi, same location, same time:
90.5 mbps

This was after disabling MoCA on the Roamio Pro, followed by 2 service connections and a reboot (through the HELP menu, not an unplug.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> Laptop (Win7) connected to the router via ethernet:
> 89.8 mbps


So well short of the 400 Mbps seen before...


skid71 said:


> I did several speed tests and all were around 400mbps roughly.



Can you say what you're paying Comcast to provide? (Their web page indicates plans of 100, 200, 300, 600 and 1000 Mbps.)



skid71 said:


> This was after disabling MoCA on the Roamio Pro, followed by 2 service connections and a reboot (through the HELP menu, not an unplug.


I'd reboot the modem & router after the Roamio change, just to be sure. Full power-cycle for max effect; and you could even power-down the DVR entirely during the speed test to remove it from the equation.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> Laptop (Win7) connected to the router via ethernet:
> 89.8 mbps


Just to be sure, does your laptop have a Gigabit Ethernet interface, or is it just Fast Ethernet?

When things just aren't making sense, you can also roll back to the simplest configuration to test your cable modem's connection speed, connecting the laptop directly to the modem -- temporarily killing your Internet service for the rest of the house whilst the router remains disconnected.

edit: p.s. Have you made any configuration changes to your coax plant at this point, or is it still as the Comcast tech left it, with the incoming cable making a direct connection to the 2-way splitter at the modem/DVR location?


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

krkaufman said:


> So well short of the 400 Mbps seen before...
> ​
> Can you say what you're paying Comcast to provide? (Their web page indicates plans of 100, 200, 300, 600 and 1000 Mbps.)
> 
> I'd reboot the modem & router after the Roamio change, just to be sure. Full power-cycle for max effect; and you could even power-down the DVR entirely during the speed test to remove it from the equation.


Will do full power cycle as you described. I thought we were paying for 300mb, but a Comcast rep I spoke with on Saturday said we were in the 600 tier.


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

krkaufman said:


> Just to be sure, does your laptop have a Gigabit Ethernet interface, or is it just Fast Ethernet?
> 
> When things just aren't making sense, you can also roll back to the simplest configuration to test your cable modem's connection speed, connecting the laptop directly to the modem -- temporarily killing your Internet service for the rest of the house whilst the router remains disconnected.
> 
> edit: p.s. Have you made any configuration changes to your coax plant at this point, or is it still as the Comcast tech left it, with the incoming cable making a direct connection to the 2-way splitter at the modem/DVR location?


Have changed nothing to the coax plant.
Regarding connecting to the modem...that would be connecting the laptop directly to the modem via ethernet to run the speedtest correct?
The laptop is many years old, my assumption would be non-gigabit. I don't think I can see to dig through the hardware list (can't think of the proper name) to see what kind of adapter it is.


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

No change via ethernet > router (85.8), or wifi after unplugging Pro, power cycling modem and router. unplug router, unplug modem....waited about 10 minutes, powered up moedem, waited about 5 minutes, powered up router. Pro still unplugged.

I didn't think I could connect the laptop to the modem via ethernet and get online. Both Pro and Hue hub could not get online via this connection (tried Friday, before the tech arrived)


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

Ok, maybe we're getting somewhere.
Speedtest ran via ethernet cable to modem. Router unplugged.
First test was about 425mbps, the second about 320mbps.
I guess it's time to speak with Google Nest WiFi support. Am I correct in assuming it is now a router issue?


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> Will do full power cycle as you described. I thought we were paying for 300mb, but a Comcast rep I spoke with on Saturday said we were in the 600 tier.


Heh, so even the 400 Mbps would be well shy of the goal line.



skid71 said:


> Ok, maybe we're getting somewhere.
> Speedtest ran via ethernet cable to modem. Router unplugged.
> First test was about 425mbps, the second about 320mbps.
> I guess it's time to speak with Google Nest WiFi support. Am I correct in assuming it is now a router issue?


Maybe a bit of both, given those modem test results - *IF* you're paying for 600 Mbps. I'd run a few more tests direct via the modem to see if you get consistent numbers, and check your Comcast bill to see what Internet plan you're paying for. If the tests don't match the plan rates, then Comcast has some work to do - so long as you're confident in the laptop's NIC and choice of Internet speed test site. (Maybe try a few different sites or targets.)

As for the speed tests via the router, I'd start by trying a different Ethernet cable between the router and modem, in case it's somehow limiting the connection to Fast Ethernet. But the router tests should give the same results as the modem tests, since both the modem and router have Gigabit ports (right?); and a call to Google Support would be needed if the Nest is falling short.

(Until the modem results stabilize, you couldn't be certain that the router results weren't due to modem connection variance.)


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

krkaufman said:


> (Until the modem results stabilize, you couldn't be certain that the router results weren't due to modem connection variance.)


I don't know that your numbers, being a cable customer, would be as consistent as I just measured (local fiber provider), but here are the results of 4 speed tests I just ran (down/up):

229.11 216.02
229.25 215.95
229.02 215.89
229.47 216.07​We're paying for 200 symmetrical.

p.s. Ironically, one test registered around 95 Mbps in both directions ... because the RJ45 jack on the cable has gone bad, fitting loosely, and the laptop had dropped down to a Fast Ethernet link (100 Mbps) as I shifted the laptop about on my lap.


----------



## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

krkaufman said:


> Heh, so even the 400 Mbps would be well shy of the goal line.
> 
> Maybe a bit of both, given those modem test results - *IF* you're paying for 600 Mbps. I'd run a few more tests direct via the modem to see if you get consistent numbers, and check your Comcast bill to see what Internet plan you're paying for. If the tests don't match the plan rates, then Comcast has some work to do - so long as you're confident in the laptop's NIC and choice of Internet speed test site. (Maybe try a few different sites or targets.)
> 
> ...


Sorry for the late reply. Yes, both modem & router have gigabit ports. I have found (nest wifi support & reddit) that a lot of people with Google Nest WiFi have had this problem (largely anecdotal)
Nailing down the laptop's NIC details will be problematic, may have to wait until my wife can look at it. I'll have to change the laptop's DPI settings and run more tests with a direct connection to the modem. I'm working on getting the internet tier confirmed.

For poops and giggles, I'm going to hook up my previous router to see if there is any difference between it and what the Google Nest WiFi is putting out (Netgear Nighthawk R7000)
More testing to do.
Huge thanks for keeping in touch on this bonkers 2020 journey.


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

Would this NIC be able to measure speed up to 600MB if connected via ethernet to modem? Assuming connected with the correct ethernet cable. I'm going to use the cable that was included in the Google Nest WiFi router box. (for sure the newest ethernet cable I've got)


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

Sounds like a plan. Here as needed. (There w/ mileage. )


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> Would this NIC be able to measure speed up to 600MB if connected via ethernet to modem?


Yes, presuming there isn't something amiss in the configuration.









"Realtek PCIe GBE Family Controller" ("GBE" == Gigabit Ethernet)

Once I'm back at the computer, I'll see what the command is for reporting the current link rate for a given interface. (It should read "1.0 Gbps" when connected to another Gigabit port.)

p.s. in the meantime, here's a how-to for checking link rate via the Windows 10 UI:

Don't know the speed of network card? Here's how to find out on Windows 10.

(This is how I confirmed my bad RJ45 terminator earlier, when I was seeing sub-100 Mbps test speeds.)


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

Update; Wednesday, 09.30
Unplugged switch
Unplugged router
Unplugged modem
Connected ethernet cable that came with Google Nest WiFi to pc (powered off), and the other end to the modem (still powered off)
Powered up modem, after full boot, reset (using tiny pin hole in the back)
After modem booted up, powered on pc, ran several speed tests between speedtestdotnet and the (applet?) that appears when you type in speedtest in google search
Speedtestdotnet was slower, but both fluctuated (possible background processes?), but no other apps open on pc, and no other browser windows (used firefox by the way)
Anywhere from 325-ish to some around 560; again, quite a bit of fluctuation

Powered down pc
Powered down modem
Removed ethernet cable from pc and connected it to the Google Nest WiFi (still unplugged)
Powered up modem; after full boot, reset connection with pin-hole in the back
Modem fully booted
Plugged in Google Nest WiFi (no problems booting, no flashing connection light)
After about 5 mintues ran speed tests on speedtest app, google home app and comcast speedtest web page (vivaldi browser on Pixel 2 XL)
All were around 90MB again.
Ran another speedtest with Google Home app - 668MB
Ran speedtest app again (twie); 460 & 470
Comcast speedtest web page via Vivaldi browser on phone - 332

Have to leave now but I will test again after return home tonight.
this is a good sign no?


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

krkaufman said:


> Just to be clear on the components in the junction box (and hoping you can read the annotations)...
> 
> "PoE" MoCA filter
> ground block
> ...


Forgive my question; the annotations you mention are on the picture you posted, correct? If so, although I cannot see them, I can get assistance with that.

sidenote: post #44 blew my mind when first read, after several re-reads, it's making complete sense.
Many, many thanks
Jeff


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> Forgive my question; the annotations you mention are on the picture you posted, correct? If so, although I cannot see them, I can get assistance with that.


Yes, the components listed are what was annotated in the image.



skid71 said:


> sidenote: post #44 blew my mind when first read, after several re-reads, it's making complete sense.


Good deal. As detailed, I believe you just need a MoCA filter installed on the SB8200 to protect it from MoCA signals, but I wanted to make sure you were aware of the options, as the choice is your's.


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

krkaufman said:


> Yes, the components listed are what was annotated in the image.
> 
> Good deal. As detailed, I believe you just need a MoCA filter installed on the SB8200 to protect it from MoCA signals, but I wanted to make sure you were aware of the options, as the choice is your's.


Question concerning the choice of splitters for the junction box.
1. Would you go with the Amphenol, or the unbalanced 3-way splitter? If I'm understanding correctly, the hurdle here is hopefully obtaining proper levels on the SB8200 with the addition of the coax splits for the 2 Mini locations.
1a. Safe to assume if it's the Amphenol, I would need the terminators for the unused ports?

I'm pleased with the stability and performance of the WiFi network to this point. A little further testing tomorrow, swapping out the Google Nest WiFi with the Netgear Nighthawk R7000 to see if there is any differene in WiFi performance.

Plan is to order parts tomorrow.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> If I'm understanding correctly, the hurdle here is hopefully obtaining proper levels on the SB8200 with the addition of the coax splits for the 2 Mini locations.


Entirely correct. But, as far as the modem/DVR run is concerned, you'll really just be adding, effectively, a 2-way split (-4 dB relative to the direct run that you were left with by the technician) if employing any of a 2-way splitter, an unbalanced 3-way or the Amphenol hybrid splitter. _(So fingers crossed..!)_

There *is* a means to check the signal levels of the modem, if you're interested.



skid71 said:


> Question concerning the choice of splitters for the junction box.
> 1. Would you go with the Amphenol, or the unbalanced 3-way splitter? ...
> 1a. Safe to assume if it's the Amphenol, I would need the terminators for the unused ports?


EITHER. But the Amphenol simplifies things if you want any more than 3 coax runs connected in the junction box (e.g. for more Minis or expanding your wired networking) ... along with obviating the need for a MoCA filter at the PoE, letting you repurpose the on-hand MoCA filter to the SB8200.

If you check the specs on the Amphenol hybrid splitter, you'll see that the run to the modem/DVR location would have the same loss in either case (Amphenol vs unbalanced 3-way).

-4.0 -7.5 -7.5 -12 -12 -12 -12 (Amphenol)
... vs ...
-3.9 -7.7 -7.7 (3-way unbalanced)
... vs ...
-3.7 -3.7 (2-way)​
And, yes, you'd want to cap any unused ports with 75-ohm terminators.



skid71 said:


> I'm pleased with the stability and performance of the WiFi network to this point. A little further testing tomorrow, swapping out the Google Nest WiFi with the Netgear Nighthawk R7000 to see if there is any differene in WiFi performance.


Roger. Sounds like you're ready to get the MoCA going, then, as well.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> Connected ethernet cable...to pc (powered off), and the other end to the modem (still powered off)
> ... ran several speed tests ...
> Speedtestdotnet was slower, but both fluctuated (possible background processes?), ...
> Anywhere from 325-ish to some around 560; again, quite a bit of fluctuation


That degree of fluctuation, at least from speedtest.net, *is* confusing ... BUT at least in terms of the original focus of the thread -- getting your MoCA setup working -- we'll now know not to attribute that same variation to the MoCA setup.

Here's some resources Re: the SB8200, for troubleshooting the Internet connection:

SB8200: Troubleshooting Internet Connectivity
SB8200: Cable Signal Levels

Separately, when it comes to evaluating and troubleshooting changes to the LAN, it can be helpful (though not required) to use LAN speed testing utilities -- such as iPerf or LAN Speed Test -- to evaluate the performance of LAN connections, to eliminate the Internet variance (and likely bottleneck) from the equation. Unless one's router has a speed testing server built-in (do any?), LAN testing typically requires a pair of PCs/laptops with network interfaces at least as fast as the spec of the network medium to be evaluated.

See also: 6 Free Tools to Test and Benchmark Your Network Speed • Raymond.CC


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## JoeKustra (Dec 7, 2012)

krkaufman said:


> Unless one's router has a speed testing server built-in (do any?), LAN testing typically requires a pair of PCs/laptops with network interfaces at least as fast as the spec of the network medium to be evaluated.


Starting with the R8000 series, Netgear has the Ookla test built in. I have an SB8200 also. It has two RJ-45 connections. Handy to bypass the router for speed test. Earlier versions of the router had problems when QoS was enabled. It could cause wide variations in speed. I always leave it off.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

JoeKustra said:


> Starting with the R8000 series, Netgear has the Ookla test built in.


Is this just an Ookla client/applet built-in to the R8000's web UI, or is it a server process towards which one could target an Ookla client on a PC/laptop, to measure actual LAN speeds?


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

krkaufman said:


> There *is* a means to check the signal levels of the modem, if you're interested.



This isn't elegant, but I'm not sure how to go about linking pics. Maybe G Photos...anywho, here are the modem numbers from about a half hour ago.


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

JoeKustra said:


> Starting with the R8000 series, Netgear has the Ookla test built in. I have an SB8200 also. It has two RJ-45 connections. Handy to bypass the router for speed test. Earlier versions of the router had problems when QoS was enabled. It could cause wide variations in speed. I always leave it off.


Joe, Do you know of a way I could find out if my model of SB8200 has this issue, or perhaps a way to disable QoS?


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

krkaufman said:


> -- to evaluate the performance of LAN connections, to eliminate the Internet variance (and likely bottleneck) from the equation. Unless one's router has a speed testing server built-in (do any?)



This may not be answering your question, however, using the Google Nest WiFi, the Google "Home" app has a built-in speedtest. Interestingly (or not) the speeds in the Home app's speedtests are greatly higher than that of speedtest app or the Comcast speedtest webpage. Since stabilizing the network, speeds in the Home app are always between 620-668MB. The app also allows you to test the mesh connection (we have 1 GNW access point)

The Netgear Nighthawk provided much less coverage and much lower speeds (upstairs) than GNW. It was worth a shot.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> Joe, Do you know of a way I could find out if my model of SB8200 has this issue, or perhaps a way to disable QoS?


Joe was referring to the router, not the modem; he was citing a justification for bypassing the router when troubleshooting Re: Internet issues and speed testing:


JoeKustra said:


> Handy to bypass the router for speed test. Earlier versions of the router had problems when QoS was enabled. It could cause wide variations in speed. I always leave it off.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> This may not be answering your question, however, using the Google Nest WiFi, the Google "Home" app has a built-in speedtest


No, I was wondering about the router acting as the server/target endpoint for LAN speed testing, rather than a speed test client function, allowing use of a compatible client program on the LAN to measure strictly LAN speeds -- as opposed to testing out to some Internet target. For example, using an Internet testing app won't help me diagnose a Gigabit segment's maximum throughput if I'm only paying for 200 Mbps Internet service.



skid71 said:


> Interestingly (or not) the speeds in the Home app's speedtests are greatly higher than that of speedtest app or the Comcast speedtest webpage. Since stabilizing the network, speeds in the Home app are always between 620-668MB. The app also allows you to test the mesh connection (we have 1 GNW access point)


I expect that this would be because the "Home" app tests are being run directly from the main Nest unit, rather than from some other device you're using to connect to the LAN (tablet, PC) -- though there really shouldn't be a difference between the "Home" app result and that of a device with a Gigabit Ethernet connection to the Nest router.

And I remain baffled as to how the "Home" tests could be consistently in the mid-600s when your direct-to-modem testing was so varied. (It makes me question the quality of the testing unit, the PC/laptop.)

Critically, as long as the "Home" tests remain consistent in the mid-600s, you should be good.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> This isn't elegant, but I'm not sure how to go about linking pics. Maybe G Photos...anywho, here are the modem numbers from about a half hour ago.


Though moot if everything's working, Re: upstream levels...








My reading of the FAQ from above...


krkaufman said:


> Here's some resources Re: the SB8200, for troubleshooting the Internet connection:
> 
> SB8200: Troubleshooting Internet Connectivity
> SB8200: Cable Signal Levels


... indicates the upstream power levels slightly below spec. Should ideally be in the 45-51 dBmV range, right?

"Acceptable Power Levels" Summary Table from FAQ:


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

Ok @krkaufman I hate to sound like a cheapskate (long story about a medical emergency in this, the worst of years), but I'm going with the cheaper, techtoolsupply cart:
3-way unbalanced splitter (junction box)
2-way MoCA splitter (modem/DVR split)
MoCA PoE filter (connecting to modem coax input)
6x 75ohm terminator caps

Unless you feel like the Amphenol would be the better solution?


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

p.s. Ironically, note the the upstream power levels in the example screenshot from the FAQ document are pretty much in line with your current readings:








​Note that the FAQ does say to refresh the stats page a few times to verify consistent figures.

'gist: I wouldn't worry about the numbers, right now. Just make sure that you have consistent readings and then pocket the info for comparison after you've implemented the additional split of the signal.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> Ok @krkaufman I hate to sound like a cheapskate (long story about a medical emergency in this, the worst of years), but I'm going with the cheaper, techtoolsupply cart:
> 3-way unbalanced splitter (junction box)
> 2-way MoCA splitter (modem/DVR split)
> MoCA PoE filter (connecting to modem coax input)
> ...


No worries. You're the driver.

I'd have thought that the Amphenol was the cheaper solution, though ... given the cost of a 3-way unbalanced splitter + MoCA filter versus just the Amphenol hybrid splitter ... though whether you're an Amazon Prime member may tip the scale one way or the other (or if you have someone who could proxy the Prime purchase on your behalf). I also don't know what Tech Tool Supply's shipping times are.

p.s. On the "cheapskate" front, I was still figuring that you could skip replacing the 2-way splitter at the modem/DVR location, for now, since it may not be an impediment to a working setup -- though if shipping costs are a factor, then getting a MoCA-friendly splitter now would make sense.


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

krkaufman said:


> Though moot if everything's working, Re: upstream levels...
> indicates the upstream power levels slightly below spec. Should ideally be in the 45-51 dBmV range, right?



Take this with a grain of salt, I spoke with a long time Comcast representative (Comcast Community forums) who told me that the levels (at least for the SB8200) should be between 35-49dBmV. I know, I know, it's odd. I've been in touch with Arris, and reviewed the power level chart months ago (original reason for tech visit last Friday)

Now I'm a bit more concerned about the levels, and what that splitter (3-way unbalanced in junction box) will do to the signal.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> Take this with a grain of salt, I spoke with a long time Comcast representative (Comcast Community forums) who told me that the levels (at least for the SB8200) should be between 35-49dBmV. I know, I know, it's odd. I've been in touch with Arris, and reviewed the power level chart months ago (original reason for tech visit last Friday)
> 
> Now I'm a bit more concerned about the levels, and what that splitter (3-way unbalanced in junction box) will do to the signal.


Do you not have a spare 2-way splitter lying around (rated up to 1002 MHz), to allow you to test the effect of splitting the signal in the junction box?

As an aside, is the modem/router location your *preferred* location for the Roamio Pro (i.e. where you watch the most TV), or is the DVR located there because that's where you need it to be to effect the MoCA/Ethernet bridge?


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

Sorry for the wildly off-topic question:
I use Edge (it's the most Jeff-vision-friendly browser. How in the H-E-double hockey sticks can I get rid of all of these ads that are putting me into an epileptic seizure?


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> Sorry for the wildly off-topic question:
> I use Edge (it's the most Jeff-vision-friendly browser. How in the H-E-double hockey sticks can I get rid of all of these ads that are putting me into an epileptic seizure?


Not being a user, I dunno.


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

krkaufman said:


> Do you not have a spare 2-way splitter lying around (rated up to 1002 MHz), to allow you to test the effect of splitting the signal in the junction box?
> 
> As an aside, is the modem/router location your *preferred* location for the Roamio Pro (i.e. where you watch the most TV), or is the DVR located there because that's where you need it to be to effect the MoCA/Ethernet bridge?


Roamio Pro is downstairs, the "theater", connected to 7.1 speakers/AVR, etc. The TV we watch the most is in the living room, upstairs, with a soundbar/sub. I like the RP being downstairs.

I'm not against testing the split, as I'm sure I have a splitter around. #1 issue currently is that I've zero time this weekend to do it. But hey, why rush things. As of now, I'm not ordering anything. You're right, going with Prime, and no PoE filter, it's slightly more expensive, but I'll get the order much quicker.

Let me dig for a splitter and try to take pics. I'm afraid that is all I have time for until Monday. (family obligations)


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

Splitters, 01-04


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

krkaufman said:


> Not being a user, I dunno.


Tapatalk?


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> Tapatalk?


I just don't use the Edge browser. Am using Chrome.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> Splitters, 01-04


Avoid the 4-way and "T" 900 MHz 2-way splitters.

For the purposes of testing the effect that splitting the coax in the junction box has on your signal at the modem, either of the other 2 splitters would suffice. You can connect one of the Mini runs to the other output of the 2-way if you don't have a 75-ohm terminator on-hand. (Mini could be connected but left powered-off.)



skid71 said:


> I'm afraid that is all I have time for until Monday. (family obligations)


No worries. See you on the other side.


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## mdavej (Aug 13, 2015)

krkaufman said:


> I just don't use the Edge browser. Am using Chrome.


The new Edge is essentially identical to Chrome. It even uses the same extensions. Since uBlock Origin works pretty well for blocking ads in Chrome, it works just as well in Edge.


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

krkaufman said:


> Avoid the 4-way and "T" 900 MHz 2-way splitters.
> 
> For the purposes of testing the effect that splitting the coax in the junction box has on your signal at the modem, either of the other 2 splitters would suffice. You can connect one of the Mini runs to the other output of the 2-way if you don't have a 75-ohm terminator on-hand. (Mini could be connected but left powered-off.)
> 
> No worries. See you on the other side.


In a post, you detailed how I could test/find the 2 Mini locations in the junction box.


krkaufman said:


> Avoid the 4-way and "T" 900 MHz 2-way splitters.
> 
> For the purposes of testing the effect that splitting the coax in the junction box has on your signal at the modem, either of the other 2 splitters would suffice. You can connect one of the Mini runs to the other output of the 2-way if you don't have a 75-ohm terminator on-hand. (Mini could be connected but left powered-off.)
> 
> No worries. See you on the other side.


(testing signal loss)
Finding the Mini coax connections in the junction box (I can't find your post)
Connect orange coax from TAP to one of the 2-way splitters I posted earlier, connect modem/dvr coax line to one of the outputs.
At this point, connect one of the disconnected coax lines in the junction box to the other output on the splitter. Using the modem, connect to a Mini coax outlet until the modem "sees" the connection?
Is this correct?


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> Finding the Mini coax connections in the junction box (I can't find your post)
> Connect orange coax from TAP to one of the 2-way splitters I posted earlier, connect modem/dvr coax line to one of the outputs.
> At this point, connect one of the disconnected coax lines in the junction box to the other output on the splitter. Using the modem, connect to a Mini coax outlet until the modem "sees" the connection?
> Is this correct?


Re: finding the Mini coax runs out in the junction box...

Yes, you can do it one of two ways, depending on the resources available. Either:

Connect the modem to a single wall outlet and then try connecting the different coax runs in the junction box until the modem is able to establish a connection with the ISP; or

Connect a single cable in the junction box and then try the modem at each wall outlet until the modem connects to the ISP.

The second approach is perhaps easier to accomplish with a single person; but the first approach would be quickest in identifying a specific Mini coax run, provided you have someone who can monitor the modem whilst the other person is trying the different coax runs in the junction box.

p.s. An alternative is available, that wouldn't require the modem. Use a coax tester, such as >this<, to identify which coax runs go to which rooms. This approach might be preferable if this isn't a one-off effort and the money spent could be averaged out over multiple uses.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> Connect orange coax from TAP to one of the 2-way splitters I posted earlier, connect modem/dvr coax line to one of the outputs.
> At this point, connect one of the disconnected coax lines in the junction box to the other output on the splitter.


And, yes, this is what you can do to test the effect of splitting the signal on the modem's connectivity.

Getting the second coax line of the splitter connected may be optional. I'm not sure how significantly leaving it open would affect the signal reception at the modem. You may just want to install the splitter, with just the run to the modem/DVR connected, and then power-up the modem to see if it connects, and check its signal levels.

One caveat, though, to your connection description, above. I'd recommend the following in the junction box for the test:

INCOMING LINE > *MoCA filter* > 2-way splitter (*w/ ground wire connected*)
2-way[OUT 1] > to 2-way splitter at modem/DVR coax location
2-way[OUT 2] > disconnected, terminated or a Mini run

The goal of this setup is just to see if the modem can establish and maintain a connection with the signal being split, with a loss around 4dB.


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

The Amphenol MoCA splitter will be arriving tomorrow, along with several terminators and a MoCA friendly 2-way splitter you were kind enough to link me to earlier. At his point, may as well test with the actual pieces.

Question on the Amphenol: I remember that 4 of the outputs are designed for MoCA; just want to make sure I'll be using 3 of those 4 outputs in my specific setup?
a - modem/dvr
b - Mini #1
c - Mini #2


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> Question on the Amphenol: I remember that 4 of the outputs are designed for MoCA; just want to make sure I'll be using 3 of those 4 outputs in my specific setup?
> a - modem/dvr
> b - Mini #1
> c - Mini #2


Yes, that's good - with the critical bit being getting the modem/DVR coax line connected to the lowest-loss output, #1.

(And cap the unused ports with terminators, or connect your other coax runs and then terminate those lines at their coax wall outlets.)


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

krkaufman said:


> Yes, that's good - with the critical bit being getting the modem/DVR coax line connected to the lowest-loss output, #1.
> 
> (And cap the unused ports with terminators, or connect your other coax runs and then terminate those lines at their coax wall outlets.)


Received hardware yesterday. A friend is coming over tonight to remove the grounding wire from the amplified splitter and move it to the Amphenol.

A question about the Amphenol splitter:
Using a special CCTV, I can see the layout of the splitter, with the top left connection being the input, and the layout of the 3 hyprid ports, and the MoCA ports. You had mentioned earlier in the thread that I needed to connect the modem/dvr coax to the MoCA port that had a (either) -3.3db or -3.4db. I see the db numbers for the 3 hyprid ports, however, the 4 MoCA ports are not (at least as I can see) labelled with the db infor that the hybrid ports are.
How can I tell which one of those 4 MoCA ports is the -3.3/-3.4db?

As always, sincere thanks


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> You had mentioned earlier in the thread that I needed to connect the modem/dvr coax to the MoCA port that had a (either) -3.3db or -3.4db. I see the db numbers for the 3 hyprid ports, however, the 4 MoCA ports are not (at least as I can see) labelled with the db infor that the hybrid ports are.
> How can I tell which one of those 4 MoCA ports is the -3.3/-3.4db?


If I said that, it was in error. The modem/DVR must be connected to the lowest loss "hybrid" port, *output port "H1"*; you could connect the Mini-only coax runs to any of the remaining ports (hybrid H2 or H3, or the MoCA-only ports M1-M4.

As for the loss associated with the hybrid splitter, I'm annoyed to find that I may have misled you due to outdated information on the Amazon listing, relative to what is currently reported on Amphenol Broadband Solution's website, here: DOCSIS Passive - 100% Passive Broadband Installation

Comparing the images between the Amazon and ABS pages, the ABS image indicates slightly higher loss:

-4.0 -7.5 -7.5 -12 -12 -12 -12 (Amazon)
-5.5 -9.0 -9.0 -?? -?? -?? -?? (Amphenol)

Amazon ...vs... Amphenol












​... though, given that the Amphenol hybrid includes built-in "PoE" MoCA protection (eliminating the need for a separate MoCA filter at the PoE), the hybrid splitter's loss is about equivalent to that of a MoCA 2-way splitter with a "PoE" MoCA filter installed on its input.

p.s. Additional documentation for the Amphenol hybrid splitter (aka "DOCSIS Passive"):

Data Sheet (specs)
Brochure


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

krkaufman said:


> If I said that, it was in error. The modem/DVR must be connected to the lowest loss "hybrid" port, *output port "H1"*; you could connect the Mini-only coax runs to any of the remaining ports (hybrid H2 or H3, or the MoCA-only ports M1-M4.
> 
> As for the loss associated with the hybrid splitter, I'm annoyed to find that I may have misled you due to outdated information on the Amazon listing, relative to what is currently reported on Amphenol Broadband Solution's website, here: DOCSIS Passive - 100% Passive Broadband Installation
> 
> ...


Yup, the "H1" output on the Amphenol is showing -5.5dB

With this "revelation", would you suggest using the 3-way splitter you linked to in post #66, with an additional PoE filter? Or going with the Amphenol and check modem levels to see where they're at?
(btw...copy on modem/dvr coax line to H1)


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

Just a possible data point:
Only change made to network: Change out Comcast 2-way splitter installed on 09.25.20, with MoCA friendly "Starburst" 2-way splitter linked in post #66.
Nominal wifi download speed difference using built-in Google Home app speedtest.
And comparing upstream signal levels on the Arris SB8200 modem.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> Just a possible data point:
> Only change made to network: Change out Comcast 2-way splitter installed on 09.25.20, with MoCA friendly "Starburst" 2-way splitter linked in post #66.
> Nominal wifi download speed difference using built-in Google Home app speedtest.
> And comparing upstream signal levels on the Arris SB8200 modem.


Yeah, changing one 2-way splitter for another 2-way shouldn't affect your cable signal strength since they likely have the same specs within the 5-1002 MHz frequency range. Good to have that data point after the change, though, for comparison when you add the additional split in the junction box.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> Yup, the "H1" output on the Amphenol is showing -5.5dB


I edited my previous post to correct the -5.0 I'd posted.


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

Interestingly (or not) my friend came over last night to move the ground wire from the amplified splitter to the Amphenol and discovered it wasn't connected to the grounding rod. Now, it is connected to the Amphenol splitter and connected properly to the grounding rod.
Off work tomorrow, here is the plan. Please advise if you have time.
#1 Connect coax from TAP (orange) to Amphenol input
#2 Remove Poe filter
#3 Connect coax line (modem/DVR) to "H1"
#4 Check modem upstream signal levels
#5 Post results here
ps the unused ports on the Amphenol have been terminated


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> Interestingly (or not) my friend came over last night to move the ground wire from the amplified splitter to the Amphenol and discovered it wasn't connected to the grounding rod. Now, it is connected to the Amphenol splitter and connected properly to the grounding rod.


Good work by your friend. (You'd think the Comcast tech would check such things.)



skid71 said:


> Off work tomorrow, here is the plan. Please advise if you have time.
> #1 Connect coax from TAP (orange) to Amphenol input
> #2 Remove Poe filter
> #3 Connect coax line (modem/DVR) to "H1"
> ...


Sounds sound. Though, also, once you've removed the MoCA filter at the PoE, you may want to get it installed on the SB8200's input.

#2(edited): move MoCA filter from PoE to modem input (possible due to built-in MoCA block in Amphenol hybrid splitter, but needed to protect SB8200 from MoCA signals).


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> ps the unused ports on the Amphenol have been terminated


Are the Mini coax runs already connected to the Amphenol?


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

krkaufman said:


> Are the Mini coax runs already connected to the Amphenol?


Negative; I was going to check on the modem signal levels before I proceed with "finding" the 2 Mini outlets.
I suppose it doesn't make much/any difference. I can certainly proceed with finding and connecting the 2 Mini outlets to the Amphenol before logging onto the modem to check levels.

Either way, I'll also add the MoCA filter to the SB8200 before plugging the modem back in.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> Either way, I'll also add the MoCA filter to the SB8200 before plugging the modem back in.


This is more important than finding/connecting the Mini lines, short-term, in terms of the "actual setup" approach. It makes sense to get a determination, as soon as possible, on whether the cable signal can be passively split in the junction box.

p.s. I failed to directly answer this previous question:


skid71 said:


> With this "revelation", would you suggest using the 3-way splitter you linked to in post #66, with an additional PoE filter? Or going with the Amphenol and check modem levels to see where they're at?


Per my earlier reply:


krkaufman said:


> ... though, given that the Amphenol hybrid includes built-in "PoE" MoCA protection (eliminating the need for a separate MoCA filter at the PoE), the hybrid splitter's loss is about equivalent to that of a MoCA 2-way splitter with a "PoE" MoCA filter installed on its input.


... I believe the Amphenol should still be preferred over separate components, given similar aggregate stats and fewer points of failure.


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

Good morning @krkaufman 
Status update:
1 Disconnected power to Google Nest WiFi router
2 Disconnected coax from modem (SB8200) & disconnected power 
3 Removed PoE filter from junction box and connected it to modem input
4 Connected (orange - TAP) coax to Amphenol input
5 Connected (black - modem/dvr) coax to "H1" on Amphenol
6 Powered up modem
7 Waited a couple of minutes and powered up Google Nest WiFi
8 No blinking light on WiFi, so no need to reset modem; wifi signal back up
9 Powered up PC, opened Edge browser, and logged into modem diagnostics
I *think* I'm delighted to post the upstream signal level values.

Do I proceed with finding the Mini locations?
If so, I would like to discuss specific methodology.
I'm solo, so I'm going to the following:
> (modem powered off) connect Mini coax into modem (no Poe filter installed on input?)
> Connect 1st (of 5 or 6) coax lines in junction box to M1 port on Amphenol
> Power up modem and see if the light below the power light comes on solid
Does this sound correct? Suggestions or advice?


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> I *think* I'm delighted to post the upstream signal level values.


The modem upstream levels are the same as before, basically (even 1dBmV higher on one channel)?

Might as well try an Internet speed test or three.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> Do I proceed with finding the Mini locations?
> If so, I would like to discuss specific methodology.
> I'm solo, so I'm going to the following:
> > (modem powered off) connect Mini coax into modem (no Poe filter installed on input?)
> ...


Sounds correct for the in-room test setup: just connect the modem directly to the wall outlet for the location/run you're trying to identify. No need for the MoCA filter to travel with the modem, but it shouldn't matter - so long as the MoCA filter is back on the modem when it's returned to its permanent location, post-testing.

As for the junction box, you definitely would NOT want to use any of the M* ports for linking the coax runs, when using the modem for testing, since those output ports have the most loss and could themselves prevent the modem from syncing, even when the correct coax line is connected.

Either use a barrel connector (such as the now unused ground block) to directly connect the incoming coax line to each line to be tested, or, keeping the orange incoming line connected to the Amphenol, connect the coax line being tested to one of the hybrid ports, H1-H3.


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

krkaufman said:


> The modem upstream levels are the same as before, basically (even 1dBmv higher on one channel)?
> 
> Might as well try an Internet speed test or three.


Speedtests
#1 downstairs, within a yard give-or-take from the router, via built-in speedtest in Google Home app
612MB
#2 upstairs, about 15 feet away from GNW access point
642MB
PC is on, no idea if it's using any bandwidth
Roku streaming live tv via Xfinity Stream app (I'm sure that has to be taking a decent chunk of bandwidth)


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

krkaufman said:


> Sounds correct for the in-room test setup: just connect the modem directly to the wall outlet for the location/run you're trying to identify. No need for the MoCA filter to travel with the modem, but it shouldn't matter - so long as the MoCA filter is back on the modem when it's returned to its permanent location, post-testing.
> *10-4*
> 
> As for the junction box, you definitely would NOT want to use any of the M* ports for linking the coax runs, when using the modem for testing, since those output ports have the most loss and could themselves prevent the modem from syncing, even when the correct coax line is connected.
> ...


*Ok, I'm a bit fuzzy on the first part of this paragraph. However, my plan is to leave the "orange/TAP" line connected to the Amphenol, and one-by-one, connecting the coax lines in the junction box to either "H2 or H3" on the Amphenol.

Edit: apologies, I replied to each of your paragraphs within your quote. I hope it's no trouble reading them.*


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

H1/H2 finding Mini locations only (using modem)
"M" ports - use to connect coax lines after locating the Mini locations.
Correct?


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> my plan is to leave the "orange/TAP" line connected to the Amphenol, and one-by-one, connecting the coax lines in the junction box to either "H2 or H3" on the Amphenol.


That will work - with the added bonus that you can leave the found line connected, for the permanent setup, then use the other hybrid port to find the remaining Mini coax run.



skid71 said:


> Edit: apologies, I replied to each of your paragraphs within your quote. I hope it's no trouble reading them.


No worries, same thing I often do. (Just have to train oneself to scroll backwards in the thread, a bit, to make sure all unseen posts are read.)


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> H1/H2 finding Mini locations only (using modem)
> "M" ports - use to connect coax lines after locating the Mini locations.
> Correct?


Typo there, of course. H2 & H3 for locating the Mini coax lines.

And you can keep the Minis connected to H2 & H3 permanently, so long as you don't have any other devices requiring the raw cable signal - say, such as if you were you to relocate the DVR or buy a second. (At present, your cable signal is only needed down the modem/DVR run.)

That said, the Minis should work connected via any of the remaining ports, H2-H3, M1-M4.


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

Status update; 10.09, 1650hrs
Mini locations found
Used H2 & H3 on the Amphenol, and left them connected after finding.
"Finding" was confirmed with all modem (SB8200) lights solid.
When not connected to the correct coax line, the modem blinked (2nd light down)
When connected to the correct coax line, the modem had no blinking lights.
Many, many connects & disconnects. Ho Li Fook, manufacturers don't think of large-handed men when designing junction boxes, splitters, etc.

After finding the 2 Mini locations, the network was placed back together.
Amphenol splitter:
Input: orange/TAP line
H1: modem/dvr line
H2: Mini location #1 (upstairs above fireplace)
H3: Mini location #2 (upstairs master bedroom)
M1-M4: termindated

PoE filter connected to modem coax input
Modem connected to Google Nest WiFi router via proper (GB) ethernet cable
Router connected to GB switch;
a - ethernet to TiVo Roamio Pro
b - ethernet to Hue bridge

Hue lights are working, have not yet tried TiVo.
Speedtest (just 1 so far....I'm excited) 642MB downstairs, appox. 1 yard from router (wifi)

I *think* it's time to enable the Roamio Pro as a MoCA bridge.
There is no way I'm doing that at this point (I mean, c'mon, things are working) until @krkaufman or someone else chimes in.
I remember that the MoCA channel used to "create" the MoCA network may be important. Was it channel 15? (no encryption)

I sincerely thank every person that has read or contributed posts to this thread. There is no way this blind TiVo user could have done this without the help of the comminity. Seriously

Jeff


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> Amphenol splitter:
> Input: orange/TAP line
> H1: modem/dvr line
> H2: Mini location #1 (upstairs above fireplace)
> ...


If the Roamio Pro is successfully networked via Ethernet, able to make a successful connection to the TiVo service, yeah, seems like you should be ready to try the MoCA setup.

You should be able to just let the channel ride as "Auto" and skip encryption/privacy (since you have a MoCA block at the PoE).


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

krkaufman said:


> If the Roamio Pro is successfully networked via Ethernet, able to make a successful connection to the TiVo service, yeah, seems like you should be ready to try the MoCA setup.
> 
> You should be able to just let the channel ride as "Auto" and skip encryption/privacy (since you have a MoCA block at the PoE).


Yes, Roamio Pro just made a successful TiVo service connection.
Just want to make sure:
Roamio Pro (network settings)
Ethernet is currently on (leave it on)
MoCA is currently off (turn it on)
Any need to reboot the Pro after making these changes, before trying the Minis out?


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> Yes, Roamio Pro just made a successful TiVo service connection.
> Just want to make sure:
> Roamio Pro (network settings)
> Ethernet is currently on (leave it on)
> ...


No, no need to reboot the Pro after enabling MoCA.

Also, Pro should be set to "Bridge" (or "create a MoCA network") when enabling MoCA.


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

All thread viewers, contributors, & @krkaufman 
Roamio and Mini's operating just like they did before the tech arrived on Friday, 09.25.
When I first saw the Mini's not working, I just thought, there is no way I'm going to get this working again. There has been a significant amount of vision loss (and memory) since 2013.
There is no way I could have done this without your help. Even the most mundane daily tasks can be monumentally challenging for a blind person. I truly can't thank you enough. If you're ever in the KC area, I hope you'll allow my wife and I to take you to dinner, or some other expression of my gratitude and appreciation.
Yeah, yeah, it's just TV, but TV is at least as a big deal for me now, when I cannot see what's on the screen, as it was when I could see.
Thank you,
Jeff Skidmore


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

Most excellent to hear, and give yourself a bit of credit, for persistence getting over hurdles that would have stymied others.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

Next question is what your current Internet download/upload rates are, and whether your reported wireless hiccups, which necessitated the tech visit, recur.


skid71 said:


> I spoke about the Xfinity tech fixing WiFi issues yesterday... wihtout another lengthy post, our download speed would go from around 300mbps to 0/1/2 every few days. This resulted in a ton of router reboots (Google Nest WiFI) through the Home app, and other reboots via power cable disconnect. Never had an issue with either Mini coming back online.


p.s. It might be worthwhile documenting your current modem download/upload signal levels (e.g.), with things working properly. And screenshots of the MoCA statistics pages from one of your Minis would be interesting to see (e.g.), to gauge the effectiveness of the Amphenol hybrid splitter. Or just enjoy the setup, now that it's all working again.


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

krkaufman said:


> Next question is what your current Internet download/upload rates are, and whether your reported wireless hiccups, which necessitated the tech visit, recur.
> ​p.s. It might be worthwhile documenting your current modem download/upload signal levels (e.g.), with things working properly. And screenshots of the MoCA statistics pages from one of your Minis would be interesting to see (e.g.), to gauge the effectiveness of the Amphenol hybrid splitter. Or just enjoy the setup, now that it's all working again.


What necessitated the tech to come out was wifi download speed dropping to 0-2mb. I feel these drastic speed reductions were random, although no evidence, I now feel they weren't. I put this off for many months, dreading the thought of a tech coming to the house. We now see what happened with that.

Since the tech came out, the original wifi issue has been resolved. We haven't had any kind of drop since. Not even once, and not even close. Upsteam modem levels were 57-54.

I will most certainly follow up with posting some speedtests, and looking/reporting the MoCA info you linked to. I'll enjoy the working system tonight though.


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## ThAbtO (Apr 6, 2000)

skid71 said:


> wifi download speed dropping to 0-2mb. I feel these drastic speed reductions were random,


It is interference that slowed down your transfer speeds and no tech can fix with another equipment. It is also random. I had previously told you how you can fix it, by going into your router settings, wireless, wireless settings, change the wireless channel to 11. (for B/G/N, AC is different frequency)


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

ThAbtO said:


> It is interference that slowed down your transfer speeds and no tech can fix with another equipment. It is also random. I had previously told you how you can fix it, by going into your router settings, wireless, wireless settings, change the wireless channel to 11. (for B/G/N, AC is different frequency)


Sure, but it could also have been MoCA affecting the DOCSIS 3.1 modem's performance ... which seems at least just as likely given, as you cite, that nothing in particular was done to address any "interference" ... yet the wireless performance is now markedly better *and* more consistent. But time will tell.

Or ...


skid71 said:


> Since the tech came out, the original wifi issue has been resolved. We haven't had any kind of drop since. Not even once, and not even close. Upsteam modem levels were 57-54.


... the OP could pull the MoCA filter off the SB8200's coax input and see if the "wireless" issues recur.  (Or, wisely, just enjoy the setup now that it's working.)


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## skid71 (Mar 20, 2013)

krkaufman said:


> Next question is what your current Internet download/upload rates are, and whether your reported wireless hiccups, which necessitated the tech visit, recur.
> ​p.s. It might be worthwhile documenting your current modem download/upload signal levels (e.g.), with things working properly. And screenshots of the MoCA statistics pages from one of your Minis would be interesting to see (e.g.), to gauge the effectiveness of the Amphenol hybrid splitter. Or just enjoy the setup, now that it's all working again.


Here are the 5 MoCA related pages from the Roamio Pro this morning.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid71 said:


> Here are the 5 MoCA related pages from the Roamio Pro this morning.


PHY rates look great. I'd prefer TX power estimate be lower (range: -30 to +3; current = 0) but it's fine. (Makes me wonder if the Amphenol hybrid is designed for installation simplicity, rather than peak performance - and will likely be ordering one for comparison.)


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## skid7101 (Mar 17, 2015)

Good evening @krkaufman . How has life been treating you? Are you still watching content in the TiVo realm? How have you been?
Our network has been stable for the most part. Our Roamio Pro & Minis have been showing their age a bit I suspect. Lots of sluggish UI & remote response lagginess, but nothing too irritating. I was thinking of making some network changes and had many posts on this thread saved to help point me in the right direction.
Hope you're doing well and maybe I can hit you up for a few pointers if you're up to it.
Jeff


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid7101 said:


> Good evening @krkaufman . How has life been treating you? Are you still watching content in the TiVo realm? How have you been?
> Our network has been stable for the most part. Our Roamio Pro & Minis have been showing their age a bit I suspect. Lots of sluggish UI & remote response lagginess, but nothing too irritating. I was thinking of making some network changes and had many posts on this thread saved to help point me in the right direction.
> Hope you're doing well and maybe I can hit you up for a few pointers if you're up to it.
> Jeff


Still around, though TiVo usage has dropped considerably. Post what questions you may have; somebody will hopefully be able to answer.


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## skid7101 (Mar 17, 2015)

krkaufman said:


> Still around, though TiVo usage has dropped considerably. Post what questions you may have; somebody will hopefully be able to answer.


Will be moving away from TiVo, removing the Pro from downstairs and moving our PoE from that downstairs location to our office upstairs where most of our living takes place.
Cancelling my questions, inatead, relying upon your instruction previously on using a cable modem to find the correct coax line in the junction box.

Enjoy your content, no matter where it comes from and have an outstanding holiday season!

Jeff


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid7101 said:


> Enjoy your content, no matter where it comes from and have an outstanding holiday season


Same; and good luck…


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## skid7101 (Mar 17, 2015)

@krkaufman may I seek some of your knowledge once again?

Welp, I have ran in to a chin-scratcher.
Attempting to locate the office coax connection in the junction box.
Using the H3 connection on the Amphenol splitter, I used a backup modem (SB6183) to confirm the connection and the 4 modem lights eventually become solid.

There are 3 remaining unconnected coax lines in the junction box.
Using the M4 connection on the Amphenol splitter in the junction box, I connected each of the 3 remaining coax lines, one at a time. After connecting the coax line, I went inside the house to the backup modem and plugged in power. All four lights flash, then after approximately 30 seconds, only the top 2 lights flash...telling me there is no connection like there was when connected to H3 (bedroom Mini)

Same behavior when connecting the other 2 coax lines in the junction box.

Am I missing something obvious or perhaps not-so obvious?


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid7101 said:


> Am I missing something obvious or perhaps not-so obvious?


I think so, yes … the difference between the “H” (hybrid) and “M” (MoCA) ports on the Amphenol hybrid splitter; that is, the raw cable signal is only passed to the 3 hybrid ports. The 4 MoCA-only ports are intended only for devices not requiring the raw cable signal, so trying to connect a cable modem via the “M” ports will fail.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid7101 said:


> I used a backup modem (SB6183) to confirm the connection and the 4 modem lights eventually become solid.


If you have them available, a pair of MoCA adapters might make the line identification a bit easier. A coax tester even more. 

See the “identify coax lines” section of the following reddit post:

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/HomeNetworking/comments/ume670/_/i88pl1n


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## skid7101 (Mar 17, 2015)

krkaufman said:


> I think so, yes … the difference between the “H” (hybrid) and “M” (MoCA) ports on the Amphenol hybrid splitter; that is, the raw cable signal is only passed to the 3 hybrid ports. The 4 MoCA-only ports are intended only for devices not requiring the raw cable signal, so trying to connect a cable modem via the “M” ports will fail.


Ah, yes, of course I missed something obvious. I most certainly should have looked over the posts in this thread when you described the ports on the Amphenol splitter.
Many, many thanks for sharing your time and knowledge.


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## skid7101 (Mar 17, 2015)

krkaufman said:


> If you have them available, a pair of MoCA adapters might make the line identification a bit easier. A coax tester even more.
> 
> See the “identify coax lines” section of the following reddit post:
> 
> ...


I'm kicking myself for getting rid of the MoCA adapters.
This has to be a function of my blindness, but I'm not seeing the "identify coax lines" section. I'll keep at it.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid7101 said:


> I'm kicking myself for getting rid of the MoCA adapters.
> 
> This has to be a function of my blindness, but I'm not seeing the "identify coax lines" section. I'll keep at it.


Moot if you have no MoCA adapters, but it’s just a link to a Reddit post describing how to use them for coax line identification. You have to click on the “view the current version on reddit” link to see the post. (Or see below.)

You could just keep using the spare modem, but rotating the unidentified lines through one of the splitter’s “H” ports.

- - -
Reddit post:


> Recommendations….
> 
> *Test the adapters*
> 
> ...


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## skid7101 (Mar 17, 2015)

krkaufman said:


> Moot if you have no MoCA adapters, but it’s just a link to a Reddit post describing how to use them for coax line identification. You have to click on the “view the current version on reddit” link to see the post. (Or see below.)
> 
> You could just keep using the spare modem, but rotating the unidentified lines through one of the splitter’s “H” ports.
> 
> ...


Absolutely! I went to bed last night defeated. Thanks to you, I woke this morning with renewed excitement. The only thing holding me back now are the frigid temps here in Blue Springs.
The older I get, the more I hate the cold.

Plan now is to use the H3 port (currently the master bedroom Mini location) to identify the office coax line. The junction box is much cleaner than what we were dealing with last time. I should probably take a picture.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid7101 said:


> The only thing holding me back now are the frigid temps here in Blue Springs.


Understandable. Reminds me of another thread from a few weeks back, where the poster has a mess out in their junction box … but Minnesota says the project is on hold.


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## skid7101 (Mar 17, 2015)

krkaufman said:


> Understandable. Reminds me of another thread from a few weeks back, where the poster has a mess out in their junction box … but Minnesota says the project is on hold.


Ok, We've got nothing on Minnesota when it comes to frigidity.

The good new is that the junction box is looking much better than when I started a few years back.
I am a bit dejected that using the H3 port today did not provide coax identification. I feel certain I did things right.
I'll try a diferent coax cable next time and while I"m at it, I'l try to identify the coax outlet in the guest bedroom next door.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

Worst case, just take the short term hit (i.e. Internet outage) and bypass the hybrid splitter entirely, and use a barrel connector to link the incoming provider line (currently connected to the IN port on the hybrid splitter) to each of the unidentified lines until you have them all identified.


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## skid7101 (Mar 17, 2015)

krkaufman said:


> Worst case, just take the short term hit (i.e. Internet outage) and bypass the hybrid splitter entirely, and use a barrel connector to link the incoming provider line (currently connected to the IN port on the hybrid splitter) to each of the unidentified lines until you have them all identified.


10-4; follow you completely here.
Is there any reason why the coax outlet would not work? For example; perhaps a loose connection on the backside of the outlet? Just trying to think of any possible reason.
I'll certainly take your suggestion and use the xfinity IN line to test. Just have to grab a barrel connector.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid7101 said:


> Is there any reason why the coax outlet would not work?


Yes, all the possible reasons in the world, as you began to enumerate. 

So when _none_ of the lines produce a connection, yeah, deeper troubleshooting is required, starting with removing the wallplate and actually checking that the coax outlet is connected to the coax line behind the plate; eventually getting to the point of replacing F-connector terminations and even using a tone tracer to verify the line identity.


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## skid7101 (Mar 17, 2015)

krkaufman said:


> Yes, all the possible reasons in the world, as you began to enumerate.
> 
> So when _none_ of the lines produce a connection, yeah, deeper troubleshooting is required, starting with removing the wallplate and actually checking that the coax outlet is connected to the coax line behind the plate; eventually getting to the point of replacing F-connector terminations and even using a tone tracer to verify the line identity.


More tales of coax identification fun in the burbs:
Since I didn't have a barrel connector, and the rain hit this morning, I tried to identify the coax outlet in our guest bedroom.
Using the same H3 port on the Amphenol, and a different coax cable from the outlet to the modem, I identified the guest bedroom outlet on the first try.

So, excluding the Xfinity "In" coming in to the junction box, there are 6 coax (out) lines:
H1 > Current PoE into downstairs (Roamio Pro & modem connection)
H2 > Coax outlet above living room mantle (most-used Mini location)
H3 > Coax outlet in master bedroom (2nd Mini location)
Marked 4th cable > guest bedroom

Tried cable #5 & #6 again in H3 & office coax outlet (this is the location I want to make the PoE) no dice
As you stated above, methinks there is an issue with the coax outlet in the office. Not exactly sure of what I"m looking for, but I'll ask the Mrs. for some photographic assistance.

Side note: I did find the MoCA adapters

Hope you don't mind me sounding like a broken record, but I am very thankful for your time and help. Your patience, kindness, and guidance is extremely appreciated.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid7101 said:


> Side note: I did find the MoCA adapters


You can start using them for the line identification task, then, rather than the spare modem. (Though best to first confirm that they work via a quick direct-connection test using a short coax cable between them.)


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## skid7101 (Mar 17, 2015)

Copy
Going to get the coax outlet dianosed and repaired (if necessary) before refreshing my memory on the adapters.
I really hope something will be visible with the coax outlets. Haha, I'm also a bit confounded with where the last coax outlet is. I've got to track that down too.
I should have taken the time a few years ago to do it right when I had some better sight.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

Seems like you'll get it done, eventually. Solid persistence. Hang in there...


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## skid7101 (Mar 17, 2015)

krkaufman said:


> Seems like you'll get it done, eventually. Solid persistence. Hang in there...


All those trips to the junction box swapping out cables. Hilarious! I removed the coax outlet and.... the coax cable wasn't connected. Guess I'll call up Xfinity since the eyeballs are useless.
I'll report back after it gets terminated properly.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

skid7101 said:


> I removed the coax outlet and.... the coax cable wasn't connected.


That can be aggravating.


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## skid7101 (Mar 17, 2015)

krkaufman said:


> That can be aggravating.


We are up and running. Xfinity tech came out and terminated the outlet. Quickly identified the correct line. Now it's just some planning, trying to make the new network location look as good as possible.
Have a Merry Christmas & Happy New Year.
If Christmas isn't your thing, Happy Holidays to you & yours.

Jeff


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

Glad you got everything working, Jeff. 

Merry Happys to you and yours, as well. ; ) 

Karl


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