# Phillips DSR704 / Pixelization



## moonchilddave (May 19, 2008)

I have a DSR704 that I've been having pixelization and audio dropout issues with for a while now. The pixelization is only on occasion and happens when watching live TV and during recordings. The first issue was I had a tree limb that was possibly occasionally in the way of the dish... The tree is now gone.

So, I replaced the drive with a new one from DVR Upgrade and I still have the problem.

Also, when watching live tv and things start to pixellate, I switched over to the test signal strength screen to watch it for a bit to see if there was any dropout. Didn't see any, signal seemed to be locked around 92 on both sat 1 & sat 2. My locals are locked at 99.

Connection to TV is by S-video and digital audio out. Also have composite video and audio jacks hooked to a standalone DVD burner. I also run the coax out to a TV in the back bedroom and control things with an IR sender/receiver. Receiver is running 6.4a-01-2-101.

I notice that the system info page notes the IRD Model as DSR7000/17... I am guessing that the software is the same for both the 7000 and the 704?

I'm not sure where to start looking next... Could it be the LNB on the dish (btw, I do not see dropouts on another receiver I have when watching the same programming), one of the cables going to the TiVo, the multiswitch, or is my TiVo shot?

One last thing, I don't think the S-video cable is bad... as if I watch the TiVo through the DVD recorder (which is connected by composite cable), I still see the pixellization and dropouts.


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## weaknees (May 11, 2001)

You may have a bad tuner. Here is some help for diagnosing a bad TiVo tuner:

http://www.wkblog.com/tivo/2008/04/diagnosing-pixelization-hard-drive-or-tuner/


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## moonchilddave (May 19, 2008)

It does seem like this is a bad tuner issue. So I'm looking at buying a replacement...

I have the InstantCake software for the DSR704 - however I have noticed that when I look at the system info it reports it as a DSR7000. I'm looking to be able to swap drives and use the same software... So I am assuming I can buy either a DSR7000 or a DSR704? What about the 708? Is it identical as well?


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## angeluisa (Jul 18, 2010)

weaknees said:


> You may have a bad tuner. Here is some help for diagnosing a bad TiVo tuner:
> 
> thanks for sharing this link. will try.


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## kenr (Dec 26, 1999)

I've also had a DSR-704 with pixelation that ultimately was caused by a failed power supply, with the classic, bulging failed capacitor.


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## moonchilddave (May 19, 2008)

Is there anywhere that lists these common failures? I have no problem wielding a soldering iron and doing circuit board work (including surface mount components). However there seems to be very little info on repairing these things short of sending it off for repair. I may take a look at the power supply and see if I notice any bad caps... Do you know off hand which one typically goes bad?


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## kenr (Dec 26, 1999)

Here are the instructions to repair the power supply, assuming it's the capacitor that typically fails.

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Repair-a-Hughes-HDVR2-Tivo-Power-Supply/

This also applies to DVR40s and DSR704s.


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## moonchilddave (May 19, 2008)

Thanks... I may give this a shot although I'll probably replace all the electrolytic caps in the PS. This is actually common practice when working on old classic arcade game monitors as well - replace all the caps and you've usually fixed the monitor.

In addition to the pixelization, I have also had issue with random rebooting and the "Searching for signal on satellite 2" (which didn't change when I swapped the cables). And from seeing a few PS go in PC's, I know they can cause all kinds of weird issues before they fail completely.

I did manage to pick up another DSR704 off e-bay for $25 shipped, so if I can fix the original one, I'll at least have a backup.


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## Nittany Lioness (Oct 22, 2010)

Aaaand, one more bump for the "Diagnosing a Bad Tuner or Hard Drive" link.


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## moonchilddave (May 19, 2008)

Just an update on my problem... I have BOTH my units working now (DSR704). I ordered a replacement PS from Weaknees, but when I put it in one of the units I was still having problems - although not nearly as bad as previously. A little more research led me to pull the S-Video out connector. After doing that the issue went away completely.

Just a side note - the replacement PS from Weaknees was a pull from another unit or a stock one they still had - it was not one they had repaired.

So at this point I'm convinced it is a PS issue and I am hoping that replacing ALL the caps in the PS will get it back to the point where I can use all the video out connections including the S-Video out. I also would strongly recommend people with this issue do the same although the link in this thread mentions only replacing the one cap - which may or may not fix the problem. If you are going to go to the trouble of pulling the PS and replacing one cap, it's not much of a bigger deal to do them all and be done with it.

For getting up all the white crap that has the consistency of only hardened bubblegum, I used a small screwdriver and pried gently at it in combination with needle nose pliers. This is the worst part of the job.

Here is a list of replacement capacitors for the PS that I selected that seem to be the best match. Original cap manufacturer & series in parentheses, sizes are approximate diameter & height, and replacement cap is after the colon. All are Nichicon manufacturer part numbers.

C9 - 47uf / 50V (Teapo SEK) - 6mm x 12mm : UPW1H470MED
C14 - 2200uf / 10V (Ltec LZG) - 13mm x 20mm : UPW1A222MHD
C15 / C20 / C42 - 470uf / 10V (Ltec LZG) - 8mm x 12mm : UPW1A471MPD
C17 - 2200uf / 10V (Ltec LZG) - 10mm x 30mm : UPW1A222MPD6
C18 - 2200uf / 16V (Teapo SC) - 13mm x 25mm : UPW1C222MHD
C23 - 470uf / 25V (Ltec LZG) - 10mm x 16mm : UPW1E471MPD
C26 - 47uf / 63V (Teapo SEK) - 8mm x 12mm : UPW1J470MPD
C27 - 1uf / 50V (Teapo SEK) - 5mm x 12mm : UPW1H010MDD
C29 - 10uf / 50V (Teapo SEK) - 5mm x 12mm : UPW1H100MDD1TD

C34/35 don't have a series on the cap, but I'm guessing since all the Ltec caps in the original supply are LZG series that the PW series would be fine for them as well.

C34 / C35 - 2.2uf / 50V (Ltec) - 4mm x 6mm : UPW1H2R2MDD

These last two are a bit bigger but where they are located, should have plenty of room. I have ordered enough to put together 3 kits to do a complete repair on both units and have a spare around.

If you want to order a complete kit from Mouser here is my project / order link. Just note that this is for a DSR704 supply - others may be the same though.

I can't comment on if this will really completely fix things so the S-Video and all other outputs can be used together (as some items are backordered and they haven't gotten them in yet) - but it's worth a shot and much cheaper than sending it out and having someone else do it. Just an educated guess from someone who has been working with electronics for years - but I'd say that the tuners being the issue is probably only about a 5 or 10% chance (especially if everything is properly grounded like the dish/multiswitch and you have the unit plugged into a good surge protector/ups). Go the HD route first, then the complete PS cap kit next before sending it out for a tuner repair would be my advice.


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## kenr (Dec 26, 1999)

I have 6 of these series 2 DTivos and every problem capacitor I've seen is either c14 or c18, both of which are 2200 uf but of different voltages. 
Now as a precaution I'm replacing all the 2200 uf capacitors but leaving the rest alone. That's a lot of work to replace all of them.


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## moonchilddave (May 19, 2008)

It's not too bad... Like I said, worst part is getting the white crap up. After that it'll probably take me 30 minutes tops to do the pull and replace of all the caps, and I'm all for preventative maintenance. Of course, I've been doing cap kits on arcade monitors for over 10 years - so I've kinda got it down to a science.


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