# Re-Casing the Bolt - ideas for giving the Bolt a proper case



## darklyte (Sep 17, 2003)

I've seen several posts about people considering taking the Bolt's components and putting them into an entirely new case so I'd thought I'd start a thread just for this and get some thoughts on how to do this.

The main purpose to do this is, regardless of what you think of it aesthetically, its a poor quality plastic shell that is inferior quality & design compared to any other TiVo going back to Series 1, or even my cheapo Time Warner Cable standard issue tuner box.

Most egregiously, it lacks proper heat dissipation that could impact the lifespan of the device components. TiVo could have easily put some holes for ventilation in the case or raised up the bottom for basically no cost. But since they didn't and people are raising theirs on bottle caps, using laptop coolers under and putting holes and fans on top of the case I figured maybe there is a more elegant solution.

Ideally there would be a solution that checks these boxes:

Made of off-the-shelf parts widely available

Have better heat control options (ventilation holes, space for case fan(s)

Accommodate a 3.5" HD for better upgrade options
Be as cost effective as possible (i.e. no $300 HTPC cases)
Easy enough to do that someone with some basic tech skills and a screwdriver could accomplish
As I've started thinking about this a few issues that I noticed are that the Bolt motherboard is not a standard size, it may need to also be mounted higher than usual to accommodate the cable card underneath?, some moving/realigning of the IR sensor and LEDs would likely be needed.

Some measurements I took (rough estimates):

Motherboard size = 190mm x 155mm (7 1/2" x 6 1/8")

Back plate = 184mm x 32mm ( 7 1/4" x 1 1/4")

Heatsink = 85mm square (located 1.5" from front of board, 1.25" from back, 2.5" from right, 1.75 from left)
Any thoughts on tackling this and what might work?


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## TexasDVR (Feb 20, 2013)

Um, I may have found a use for the Old Sony DHG-500; but it still works!

Hey look what my Sony can do now; it has Four tuners and can record 4 channels!


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## V7Goose (May 28, 2005)

I was going to retrofit a Bolt into an old S2 or S3 box and share the details of how to do it, but I really did not want to start by tearing apart one of my good working Bolts until I had the details worked out. I put out a request for a donation of any broken/unusable Bolts to serve as the initial doner box, but nobody showed any interest, so my project never got off the ground. It really should be pretty easy to do.

Perhaps the most interesting possibility for this conversion would be the easy switch to a "real" HDD instead of the toy 2.5" thing to which the Bolt is currently limited. If one of my currently upgraded Bolts ever has an HDD failure, perhaps I will then do the conversion. But they are both still working fine after two years.


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## Joe39565 (Mar 19, 2014)

"My Awesome BOLT Cooling Mods" topic already has provided a great solution.

The author; "CIR-Engineering" also mentioned going with an external hard drive enclosure so you could use a 3.5" form factor hard drive.

I've already started modification of a "parts" bolt I purchased on Ebay, and waiting for the rest of the parts I purchased to arrive.

A metal case would be much nicer, but what about RF remote operation?

The metal case would still have to be modified; and it is much easier to work with plastic.


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## JLV03 (Feb 12, 2018)

Joe39565 said:


> A metal case would be much nicer, but what about RF remote operation?


The Roamio Plus/Pro have a metal case and plastic front. No problems with RF remotes in that style box.


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## darklyte (Sep 17, 2003)

Yeah CIR has some awesome ideas/solution for just getting acces to the bigger HD via an extra external enclosure. His work there is one of the things that got me thinking about this!

That Sony DHG case looks really cool, I'd love to figure out a way to get the bolt hooked up to the screen on front. One of the things I miss the most from my older S3 unit is the clock and being able to read off the front panel what's recording which was a killer feature. Unfortunately the ribbon cable from the S3 has nowhere to plug into on the bolt, and even if it did I don't know that it would just work.

One of the most promising cases I've found is this one:
M350 Universal Mini-ITX enclosure

BUT it has a couple of drawbacks which are still fewer than most others I've found so far.

It would require an additional hard drive adapter bracket to fit a 3.5" .. maybe this: 2.5 / 3.5 to 5.25 Drive Bay Computer Case Adapter HDD Mounting Bracket SSD 44276895809 | eBay
The way its set up in front it gives extra room to work but would require some extra wiring creativity to get the leds set up. In fact, the way the LEDs are on the TiVo board I'm not sure how easy it would be to get them functional/seen on any other case without soldering. Would need ideas on this.

The mounting holes aren't aligned with the TiVo mainboard screws, since its not a standard Mini-ITX size this is going to be an issue with all cases, but it has so many vent holes in it you could probably easily fix that.


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## darklyte (Sep 17, 2003)

Here's a pic that shows the issue with the LEDs I mentioned, which would require some creativity to deal with if you wanted them to work on a new case. I'm not sure there is another way besided unsoldering these and attaching new leds via a wire that can be placed at the front of the case.


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## Joe39565 (Mar 19, 2014)

I'm still basically going with CIR's approach. Added more vent holes to the cable card area, and instead of powering the 120 mm fan from the Bolt motherboard, it will be powered by the external hard drive enclosure.

With the Bolt power supply load reduced by relocating the hard drive and fan power to the external HD enclosure, I'm sure that should further reduce the motherboard temperature and reliability while keeping the motherboard itself fully "factory".


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## CaseyJ (Apr 26, 2017)

V7Goose said:


> I was going to retrofit a Bolt into an old S2 or S3 box and share the details of how to do it, but I really did not want to start by tearing apart one of my good working Bolts until I had the details worked out. I put out a request for a donation of any broken/unusable Bolts to serve as the initial doner box, but nobody showed any interest, so my project never got off the ground. It really should be pretty easy to do.
> 
> Perhaps the most interesting possibility for this conversion would be the easy switch to a "real" HDD instead of the toy 2.5" thing to which the Bolt is currently limited. If one of my currently upgraded Bolts ever has an HDD failure, perhaps I will then do the conversion. But they are both still working fine after two years.


Now that I transferred my last TiVo HD lifetime to a new Bolt, I'm going to sell the HDs' recapped power supplies, fans, and hard drives. That left me wondering what to do with the cases (and motherboards). Using them as Bolt enclosures is one option I'm considering, with a CIR style fan blowing on the heat sink except mounted inside the enclosure.
One of my Bolts is stock and one has a 3.5" drive in an external enclosure, but I'm not happy with either of these. So I'll probably start tinkering with this idea. But first I'll wait to see if the last HD actually gets deactivated in September.


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## V7Goose (May 28, 2005)

Butchering the Bolt case, and then still having to use another external box with it, just does not score very high on my "intelligent design" test. The Bolt is already ugly enough without subjecting it to something similar to a 2nd grade art project.

An external drive enclosure by itself just to convert the drive to a bigger and more reliable 3.5" model is an OK solution which is quite simple for just about anyone to do, but as far as I am concerned, there are better options. We all get to do what we want with our own devices. Isn't having choices great?


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## Joe39565 (Mar 19, 2014)

V7Goose said:


> Butchering the Bolt case, and then still having to use another external box with it, just does not score very high on my "intelligent design" test. The Bolt is already ugly enough without subjecting it to something similar to a 2nd grade art project.
> 
> An external drive enclosure by itself just to convert the drive to a bigger and more reliable 3.5" model is an OK solution which is quite simple for just about anyone to do, but as far as I am concerned, there are better options. We all get to do what we want with our own devices. Isn't having choices great?


I guess a highly intelligent and motivated individual could program a 3D printer and have it print out a modified state of the art case for the bolt, and have that design incorporate room for a 3.5" hd.

For most normal people, "hacking" a spare bolt case to achieve a much lower operating temperature for the sake of possibly extending the life cycle is the main goal.

I'm sure many of us following this forum would love to see anyone come up with a replacement case that looks to be a piece of art.


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## darklyte (Sep 17, 2003)

If a highly intelligent and motivated individual took the basic specs of the case, removed that horrible arch and mostly just extended the width and height to accommodate a 3.5" HD and a fan or two they could potentially make a few bucks off their creation if they wanted, (not a lot mind you the audience is limited but a few hundred bucks isn't out of the question), but more importantly and valuable, they'd receive the love and admiration of the Tivo forums lol

The 3D printing route would also provide an opportunity to make the case in a way that it follows the current design of the front of the Bolt case where needed to fit the layout of the RF sensor and LEDs.. so moving everything over could be pretty darn easy!


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## gthassell (Apr 22, 2003)

Instead of traditional 3D printing, if someone comes up with a good design in SVG format (for cuts of acrylic or plywood) I might be willing to attempt to create one with my favorite piece of technology (since the TiVo).... A Glowforge 3D Laser "printer" - which is really a 3D laser cutter and engraver. www.glowforge.com (there is an amazing promotional video of the unit in action on the wbesite home page)

While they were delayed several years from the product concept launch and crowdfunding (they raised almost $28 Million in the first 30 days), they have now delivered to most countries where they have received orders.

If anyone is interested in getting one for a discount, I do have a referral code I'll share. - Glowforge - the 3D laser printer (full disclosure - you get a discount, and I get an equivalent credit) - just go to the page using this link (rather than the main website) and go the the "Buy Now" section. PM me if you want to ask any questions about it or see some of the things I've created.


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## Luke M (Nov 5, 2002)

If you want to be a bit lazy, you could keep the motherboard in the existing case when installing it into a new case. Just remove the top.


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## My Cape is a Recliner (Oct 5, 2019)

I'm bumping this thread in stead of creating a new one, in hopes that someone who posted in here came up with something over the last year they forgot to contribute. It also sounds like OP started it with the same thread intentions I have.

It sounds like this threads was trying to come up with an entirely new (to the bolt) design. I like the CIR Engineering Bolt case mod with the fan, but my problems with that are the Rosewill external enclosure states it is limited to a 6TB. Not sure why, but before I limit my HD options, I'd rather try to expand my case options. Also, that external is about $60 for just an enclosure that you need to modify too.

*Here are the options I came up with hoping for some thoughts on any of it: *

* An older Tivo model case. Did anyone ever try this out?

* A computer case. The problems I'm noticing are that unless you can find a used one, or DIY, I can't justify the price of what I'm seeing is $50-$100. Its difficult to find one that is long enough to fit the drive on the side. I'm having better luck finding smaller ones that are about 10x10x what would probably have to be about 5-6" tall, to mount the HD over the motherboard. This would easily allow for larger fans.

* A DVR case (security system style). Is about the size, mostly hoping someone looked into this and has done some of the legwork of finding the right one.

* An old VCR. This is supposed to be slightly comical, but it would be the right size case, and would only look out of place because of how old they are now (, and that I wouldn't have any tapes in the house). I would either seal the VHS opening or make that as the display. Use a Dremel to cut out what was needed. Then a drill with a tap and use spacer standoffs to mount. With where it sits in my setup the back and one side would not be visible. I would drill many smaller holes on the visible side to try to keep it looking stock. The big bonus to this one, is out of all the other options, I think If someone were to ever burglarize my house, this is the only option that would probably get left behind. I could probably find one at goodwill for $5.

* A custom made, one off plexiglass/acrylic case in smoke or transparent black. Based off of one 5 minute video
( how to build acrylic computer case - Bing video )
I think I know everything I need to, to make it right. I still haven't figured out my dimensions yet, but I think I would personally rather mount the 3.5" HDD partially over the motherboard as opposed to next to it. My thought is that I would rather use a larger fan 120/140/150mm fan that can be mounted on the size, and that I know would blow a serious amount of air (triple digit CFM) as opposed to the single digit CFM that the factory fan does. Possibly a thinner 150mm fan over the heatsink, and a 120/140mm fan (maybe even two on the side) then another fan helping blow out. All in, this should be about $50-$70.

Can anyone help with any reasons to why any of these would work better, or not as well, or any thoughts? Thanks.


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## shwru980r (Jun 22, 2008)

My Cape is a Recliner said:


> I'm bumping this thread in stead of creating a new one, in hopes that someone who posted in here came up with something over the last year they forgot to contribute. It also sounds like OP started it with the same thread intentions I have.
> 
> It sounds like this threads was trying to come up with an entirely new (to the bolt) design. I like the CIR Engineering Bolt case mod with the fan, but my problems with that are the Rosewill external enclosure states it is limited to a 6TB. Not sure why, but before I limit my HD options, I'd rather try to expand my case options. Also, that external is about $60 for just an enclosure that you need to modify too.
> 
> ...


It might be easier to upgrade the the new Tivo Edge model. You could transfer your shows with Tivo online and then sell your bolt.


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## My Cape is a Recliner (Oct 5, 2019)

shwru980r said:


> It might be easier to upgrade the the new Tivo Edge model. You could transfer your shows with Tivo online and then sell your bolt.


Your answer is to spend $400 on a new edge (that's currently out of stock on TiVo.com), + $550 for lifetime, to get a 2TB drive (that probably won't be big enough), AND IS STILL A 2.5" DRIVE, then sell what I have to get back half of that is your suggestion?


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## Slumpert (Oct 18, 2019)

Project - Bolt into a Roamio chassis.

Still work in progress but it's up and running. Ordered some new cables to be able to remount the hard drive.
I bought that Roamio for under $25 as a functional unit missing remote and power.


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## shwru980r (Jun 22, 2008)

My Cape is a Recliner said:


> Your answer is to spend $400 on a new edge (that's currently out of stock on TiVo.com), + $550 for lifetime, to get a 2TB drive (that probably won't be big enough), AND IS STILL A 2.5" DRIVE, then sell what I have to get back half of that is your suggestion?


Yes. Seems like this project requires significant time a resources. How much time have you spent on this? How much is your time worth to you?


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## My Cape is a Recliner (Oct 5, 2019)

shwru980r said:


> Yes. Seems like this project requires significant time a resources. How much time have you spent on this? How much is your time worth to you?


That's relative. The engineers had parameters in which they designed this.. Sounds like size was important and it compromised it in other ways. I want to personalize this. I'm not someone who needs to pay someone to get me out all the work I want done. Heck, I still change my own oil and buy my own groceries, and sometimes I cook my own meals instead of eating twenty some mcdonalds meals a week. I wash my own clothes, my own pickup with a sponge, and I even like to go visit national parks, when I could always just google them, and save me all that time....

Did you realize that an edge still has the same 2.5" drive that is the entire point of trying this, in order to fix that?


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## UCLABB (May 29, 2012)

My Cape is a Recliner said:


> That's relative. The engineers had parameters in which they designed this.. Sounds like size was important and it compromised it in other ways. I want to personalize this. I'm not someone who needs to pay someone to get me out all the work I want done. Heck, I still change my own oil and buy my own groceries, and sometimes I cook my own meals instead of eating twenty some mcdonalds meals a week. I wash my own clothes, my own pickup with a sponge, and I even like to go visit national parks, when I could always just google them, and save me all that time....
> 
> Did you realize that an edge still has the same 2.5" drive that is the entire point of trying this, in order to fix that?


Hey Cape, I admire the elegance of your project. But, my simple external 3.5" hdd connected via sata cable and powered by a separate power supply works perfect. Not elegant because I had to cut a small slit in the back of the case, but....


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## My Cape is a Recliner (Oct 5, 2019)

UCLABB said:


> Hey Cape, I admire the elegance of your project. But, my simple external 3.5" hdd connected via sata cable and powered by a separate power supply works perfect. Not elegant because I had to cut a small slit in the back of the case, but....


The only reason I started looking deeper was because I couldn't find an external for a reasonable price that would work. I have no problem drilling a small hole in the back and using a grommet to make it look good. I even picked up a black one so it wouldn't stand out no matter what. The only problem I had with just using an external was, the one that CIR-engineering talks about says that its only good for 6TB. I have NO CLUE why, or if that's true, but that's what I read on its description. I wanted to use the WD82PURZ drive. 8TB western digital surveillance drive. It better be bigger than I need, but its also a step up in reliability compared to the 6TB. The 2.5" drives (that have all been listed anywhere in this forum) are all 600K mtbf. The 3.5" drives WD81PURZ (other 8TB WD Surveillance drive), and smaller were 1 mil mtbf. The drive I plan on using is 1.5 mil mtbf. I know its not exact, but the smart thing to do is to play the odds.

Did you use a different external then the common rosewill model? The only ones that I could find that would even work were clone stands. I didn't even bother looking at the cases that were closer to $100 or more.


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## shwru980r (Jun 22, 2008)

My Cape is a Recliner said:


> That's relative. The engineers had parameters in which they designed this.. Sounds like size was important and it compromised it in other ways. I want to personalize this. I'm not someone who needs to pay someone to get me out all the work I want done. Heck, I still change my own oil and buy my own groceries, and sometimes I cook my own meals instead of eating twenty some mcdonalds meals a week. I wash my own clothes, my own pickup with a sponge, and I even like to go visit national parks, when I could always just google them, and save me all that time....
> 
> Did you realize that an edge still has the same 2.5" drive that is the entire point of trying this, in order to fix that?


I thought there were issues with the Bolt case other than drive size.


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## My Cape is a Recliner (Oct 5, 2019)

shwru980r said:


> I thought there were issues with the Bolt case other than drive size.


The issue is the hard drive is 2.5". Which is not as reliable, doesn't give as many options, and extremely limited on storage size options, (and therefor overpriced for what few options there are) when compared to a 3.5" drive. The bolt uses a 2.5" drive, and the bolt case is too small to fit a 3.5" HD internally. So if you want a better built HD, that is more reliable, and has more storage then "should be good enough", you need to spend about a thousand bucks on a good sized SSD or use a 3.5" drive.

A 2.5" drive is good enough to get your TiVo to last through the warranty period, but if you're willing to put in a little effort and use a new HD, then you should last 2-3 times as long or more (without downtime, and losing all your recordings), and have more storage then you will need.

Somewhere along the bolt design, somebody thought the TiVo should be smaller than every other box you have in your entertainment center, and were willing to compromise quality to do so. (Maybe someone saw the size of a vcr go to the size of a blu ray player?? ) For myself and some others here we believe quality should take a higher priority over size, and aesthetics. Just trying to fix what I/we think they didn't make the right way for us.


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## UCLABB (May 29, 2012)

My Cape is a Recliner said:


> The only reason I started looking deeper was because I couldn't find an external for a reasonable price that would work. I have no problem drilling a small hole in the back and using a grommet to make it look good. I even picked up a black one so it wouldn't stand out no matter what. The only problem I had with just using an external was, the one that CIR-engineering talks about says that its only good for 6TB. I have NO CLUE why, or if that's true, but that's what I read on its description. I wanted to use the WD82PURZ drive. 8TB western digital surveillance drive. It better be bigger than I need, but its also a step up in reliability compared to the 6TB. The 2.5" drives (that have all been listed anywhere in this forum) are all 600K mtbf. The 3.5" drives WD81PURZ (other 8TB WD Surveillance drive), and smaller were 1 mil mtbf. The drive I plan on using is 1.5 mil mtbf. I know its not exact, but the smart thing to do is to play the odds.
> 
> Did you use a different external then the common rosewill model? The only ones that I could find that would even work were clone stands. I didn't even bother looking at the cases that were closer to $100 or more.


I didn't use an enclosure. Just a bare drive. I had a power supply and I think it's called a molex to sata connector. I've had it around the house for years. So, the point is, any drive you can put into the TiVo box modified, you can use in the set up I have. The only limitation is the tool to expand the drive. I used a 3tb drive so I didn't need to expand.


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## ggieseke (May 30, 2008)

My Cape is a Recliner said:


> The only problem I had with just using an external was, the one that CIR-engineering talks about says that its only good for 6TB.


That shouldn't matter if you run a SATA cable directly to the drive.


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## My Cape is a Recliner (Oct 5, 2019)

ggieseke said:


> That shouldn't matter if you run a SATA cable directly to the drive.


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## My Cape is a Recliner (Oct 5, 2019)

UCLABB said:


> I didn't use an enclosure. Just a bare drive. I had a power supply and I think it's called a molex to sata connector. I've had it around the house for years. So, the point is, any drive you can put into the TiVo box modified, you can use in the set up I have. The only limitation is the tool to expand the drive. I used a 3tb drive so I didn't need to expand.


I would be concerned with noise from the hard drive itself. That seems like you would hear it. I can't stand little distractions like that if it were to happen.


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## pl1 (Jan 18, 2007)

My Cape is a Recliner said:


> I would be concerned with noise from the hard drive itself. That seems like you would hear it. I can't stand little distractions like that if it were to happen.


I am using this case and fan. I turned the drive upside down to allow me the room to connect the SATA power plug to the PATA power with an SATA to Molex adapter. The cable fits without any cutting of either the case or the Bolt, by not screwing in anything. The price has increased but is still cheap at $26.

Here is the manual EC-UEIS7 | Sabrent


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## UCLABB (May 29, 2012)

My Cape is a Recliner said:


> I would be concerned with noise from the hard drive itself. That seems like you would hear it. I can't stand little distractions like that if it were to happen.


My hearing isn't that great so not a problem, plus it is inside a cabinet. Years ago when I used a similar setup with a cable co. dvr, I set the drive on a mouse pad and that helped.


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## My Cape is a Recliner (Oct 5, 2019)

UCLABB said:


> My hearing isn't that great so not a problem, plus it is inside a cabinet. Years ago when I used a similar setup with a cable co. dvr, I set the drive on a mouse pad and that helped.


Fair enough. Mine is normally not so great, but if I lower the volume my hearing will adjust in 10-15minutes. If it stays quiet enough around me, I will hear the lightest of noises and can even get distracted by them.

I just ordered a wall mount and plan on putting my electronics on floating shelf below it once its installed. So it will definitely be open air. I'm about convinced I will need some kind of enclosure. I really don't think it will be that difficult to make something for the same price as just adding an enclosure, or slightly more.

If doing a separate enclosure I would still want to add a fan to the case too.


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## CIR-Engineering (Sep 24, 2017)

Instructions: Adding eSATAp connector to BOLT (tech)

I've thrown this link around and it's not quite what you are looking for but I think my external bare 3.5" drive is quieter than the 2.5" drive inside my BOLT.

Also, you don't need to spend the kind of money you are talking about on a drive. I've literally used hundreds of shucked western digital drives. Just look for the 8TB WD external drives when they are on sale at BestBuy, B&H, Newegg... they contain a RED or WHITE drive. The WHITEs are just as good as the REDs. I've had literally only two fail after six years. The 8TB can easily be had for $149~$125. The WHITEs are just rebadged REDs even with the same firmware. About 1/3 of them are even HGST server drives. Every drive I have ever gotten has been a helium drive.

Best,
craigr


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## My Cape is a Recliner (Oct 5, 2019)

CIR-Engineering said:


> Instructions: Adding eSATAp connector to BOLT (tech)
> 
> I've thrown this link around and it's not quite what you are looking for but I think my external bare 3.5" drive is quieter than the 2.5" drive inside my BOLT.
> 
> ...


I appreciate you thinking I have the skill and understanding to do what you did there, but I've got some bad news for ya... I'll try reading that thread again after I've gotten some sleep.

My used bolt+ that just came in is a 6 tuner that came with the factory 3TB. I still have to wait for the cable card to come in before I can start trying it out. I'm going to start by running all six constantly until its filled. I will keep an active eye on the temps, and get a good baseline. I want to make sure its good before I open it up to clean it and measure to plan the layout if I go that route. At the least, I will probably wait until black Friday to see if I can save on a good HD.


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## jby114 (Jan 3, 2016)

Luke M said:


> If you want to be a bit lazy, you could keep the motherboard in the existing case when installing it into a new case. Just remove the top.


That's what I did, put my Bolt Vox in a MATX case. It runs nice and cool now(between 35 and 39 odt).
I also hooked up WD 8tb purple drive, with it's own power supply. I used a 1u server power supply which I got on Ebay.

I used MFSR to format the drive(donation on the way, Thank you Ggeiseke)


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## SNJpage1 (May 25, 2006)

jby114 said:


> That's what I did, put my Bolt Vox in a MATX case.


That would be my choice, pc cases are very cheap for your basic case. I am in the process of making my own PC case using aluminum channel and plexiglass.
https://www.amazon.com/80-20-40-404...n&qid=1572455788&sprefix=8020,aps,157&sr=8-43


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## ldue2541 (Apr 25, 2016)

My Cape is a Recliner said:


> That's relative. The engineers had parameters in which they designed this.. Sounds like size was important and it compromised it in other ways. I want to personalize this. I'm not someone who needs to pay someone to get me out all the work I want done. Heck, I still change my own oil and buy my own groceries, and sometimes I cook my own meals instead of eating twenty some mcdonalds meals a week. I wash my own clothes, my own pickup with a sponge, and I even like to go visit national parks, when I could always just google them, and save me all that time....
> 
> Did you realize that an edge still has the same 2.5" drive that is the entire point of trying this, in order to fix that?


you are correct.. it is about taking a bad design and making it work... i transfer shows off and it seems heat is what affects the transfers... i have an edge and even with a laptop drive it still must be getting hot as i keep having stream errors... i have looked and will continue to look for something i can move the bolt and edge into that has better ventilation...


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

Still disappointing that a 3D-printed case replacement isn't available.


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## tommiet (Oct 28, 2005)

I think Sony went to the TiVo school of case design. Have you seen the new PS5? Also, my next case for my Bolt will probably be the trash can. Plenty of space and won't overheat.

But to be honest... If someone made a case with a larger silent fan on top, I do believe it would sell.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

tommiet said:


> my next case for my Bolt will probably be the trash can. Plenty of space and won't overheat.


Plenty of people looking for donor shells, I expect.


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## tommiet (Oct 28, 2005)

krkaufman said:


> Plenty of people looking for donor shells, I expect.


Good idea...


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## CaymanS (Jul 8, 2019)

I think instead of creating a new box if someone with the skill and equipment to print a new FLAT bottom that made the case 2-3 inches taller you could easily add a 3.5 hd and probably the power supply too. Might look kinda cool too. I just wish I had the skill to design it.


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## Idol (Sep 23, 2010)

CaymanS said:


> I think instead of creating a new box if someone with the skill and equipment to print a new FLAT bottom that made the case 2-3 inches taller you could easily add a 3.5 hd and probably the power supply too. Might look kinda cool too. I just wish I had the skill to design it.


I've been working on one, but it's slow going. Designing around the cable card slot is messy and difficult. My plan is to have a couple versions: 1- standard size Bolt case for direct replacement of a standard machine with 2.5" drive. 2- similar case as #1 except expanded to hold a 3.5" drive. This one may have a separate internal or external power supply for the larger drive.


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## My Cape is a Recliner (Oct 5, 2019)

Idol said:


> I've been working on one, but it's slow going. Designing around the cable card slot is messy and difficult. My plan is to have a couple versions: *1- standard size Bolt case for direct replacement of a standard machine with 2.5" drive. * 2- similar case as #1 except expanded to hold a 3.5" drive. This one may have a separate internal or external power supply for the larger drive.
> 
> View attachment 57177


What would be the point of that?


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## WVZR1 (Jul 31, 2008)

I decided last evening on stuffing a Bolt into an early Philips 20HR HDR112 I'm quite sure I have. It still shows on my Tivo account and if it's there I should have it. Putting 'hands on' might be difficult. I located a HIDEit for the Bolt and that should secure it easily. The HIDEit won't find it's way to me until late March so I've time. There should certainly be space for a 3.5" HDD likely just added to a free standing caddy. I believe the early product had capabilities of 2 3.5 HDD internal. Mine ain't.

I'd be interested in thoughts for a power supply that I could use for 12V, 5V and maybe 3.3V for multiple fan selections. To just power the 3.5HDD separately and a fan or two I thought a PICOpsu would do but then there's the multiple 12V converters. I'd like to avoid that. I believe there's likely room for an ATV4K internally also. Mine's a 002 TSN and maybe that just designates DOM.

TiVopedia - Philips HDR112


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## Idol (Sep 23, 2010)

My Cape is a Recliner said:


> What would be the point of that?


Mostly for adding better cooling to the components. Notice the top mounted fan that is similar to other mods that have been competed on stock cases, except it's mounted inside and not external. Please remember this is a work in progress.


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## spiderpumpkin (Dec 1, 2017)

Remove Bolt from casing and put it all in a cheap emptied out Roamio case.


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## My Cape is a Recliner (Oct 5, 2019)

spiderpumpkin said:


> Remove Bolt from casing and put it all in a cheap emptied out Roamio case.


I'm still considering putting it in a older VHS case. At least then I KNOW nobody would ever bother with it.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

My Cape is a Recliner said:


> I'm still considering putting it in a older VHS case. At least then I KNOW nobody would ever bother with it.


Too bad drives can't be easily swapped in the BOLT series; the VHS tape slot would offer a nice drive caddy option.


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## krkaufman (Nov 25, 2003)

Idol said:


> I've been working on one, but it's slow going. Designing around the cable card slot is messy and difficult. My plan is to have a couple versions: 1- standard size Bolt case for direct replacement of a standard machine with 2.5" drive. 2- similar case as #1 except expanded to hold a 3.5" drive. This one may have a separate internal or external power supply for the larger drive.
> 
> View attachment 57177


If looking for aesthetic tweaks, you could include the original BOLT wedge profile on the front of the unit, slightly raised, as though the BOLT is pushing against the front of the unit. (Or just the raised edge outlining the top of the BOLT.)

If considering multiple designs, one using side or rear fans would be welcome.


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## Idol (Sep 23, 2010)

krkaufman said:


> If looking for aesthetic tweaks, you could include the original BOLT wedge profile on the front of the unit, slightly raised, as though the BOLT is pushing against the front of the unit. (Or just the raised edge outlining the top of the BOLT.)
> 
> If considering multiple designs, one using side or rear fans would be welcome.


There are a lot of options! I'm worried about cooling issues with side or rear fans because they would need to be small diameter like in the current Bolt fan (50mm). The 70mm Premiere fan wont work because my current case design shown above is only 50mm (2") high. It's been proven that the 120mm fan over the main board and components keeps the temps around 40C or less.

Another difficulty is trying to integrate the LED lights on the front of the bolt. I'm going to try to use the original light assembly and mount it into the new case so the appearance is similar.

I also have an old Tivo Series 2 case that I've considered using as a replacement case including a 3.5 drive, but again, the integration of the lights and remote control receiver are problematic (the whole front is masked by sheet metal).


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## keithg1964 (Feb 2, 2006)

@Idol l Looking forward to this being available. I am hoping it would be available for the end-user to print. I like the current design you posted with the large fan on top, with an option to have either an 2.5 or 3.5 drive.


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## Idol (Sep 23, 2010)

keithg1964 said:


> @Idol l Looking forward to this being available. I am hoping it would be available for the end-user to print. I like the current design you posted with the large fan on top, with an option to have either an 2.5 or 3.5 drive.


Glad you like it. I guess I'd better get to working harder on finishing it. It's designed in CATIA V5 but should be exportable to many other formats for 3D printing.


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## WVZR1 (Jul 31, 2008)

I've the cover off my Tivo Bolt and I'm trying to ID a component that I've never seen discussed. I ain't a photographer or an image editor but I think these should do. It's directly behind the TiVo badge on the cover. I tried to snapshot the related component on the motherboard that faces it.





















The indicator device(also on the cover) that filters the light I believe I understand and will try to use 'fiber optic' to direct those to an appropriate place on the Series 1 cabinet.


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## ggieseke (May 30, 2008)

IR receiver.


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## WVZR1 (Jul 31, 2008)

ggieseke said:


> IR receiver.


Thank You!! The case/cover is transparent enough to do IR through it? Amazing

Well since the Bolt doesn't have an IR port I guess maybe a 'repeater' inside of the cabinet? Would maybe a 'fiber optic' work for an IR operation?


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## WVZR1 (Jul 31, 2008)

I believe I'm ready to start accumulating things for my attempt to stuff a Bolt into a Philips 20 HDR Cabinet. I'll use a Bolt HIDEit for the Bolt mounting. HDD should be free standing in the Philips already. HIDEit for the Bolt will arrive late March from Florida.

TiVopedia - Philips HDR112

This PICOpsu is a 160W that they say the 12V rail will supply 8A. They also offer a 16A 192W 4 PIN DIN for a AC/DC supply.
This is a kit of the three pieces. There's links in the web offering. There's detailed specifications also for the PICOpsu.

picoPSU-160-XT with 192W Adapter Power Kit

I'd be interested in the thoughts regarding using this 'break-out' to distribute voltages internally. I thought the HDD, the Tivo and maybe a 50X50X15 fan mounted to the HDD caddy blowing down/out of the Bolt to help cooling. If I wanted to add other fans etc I'd think it easy. Opinions? Some have mentioned they felt maybe the fan on the 'heat-sink' was maybe overkill for cooling. Thoughts?

No link for the break-out box - Bezos seems to be a potential seller but I don't buy from Bezos. I'd hate for this to be an exception. I've never used a 'break-out box'. I've always done ATX to mother board. 12V, 5V etc to Tivo, HDD, Fans etc. from lugs on the 'break-out.









Thoughts?

Thanks


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## WVZR1 (Jul 31, 2008)

Does anyone have snapshots of a Black Bolt w CableCARD 'motherboard' after removal from the Bolt base? I'd be interested in some snapshots before removing mine from it's base or maybe actually decide to leave it attached to the base and stuff it inside of the cabinet using a HIDEit mount as I had planned. If it's a very straight forward removal maybe mounting it to the HDR 112 chassis using standoffs might be a better decision. Thoughts?


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## kpeters59 (Jun 19, 2007)

I was surprised you weren't intending that already...

-KP


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## WVZR1 (Jul 31, 2008)

kpeters59 said:


> I was surprised you weren't intending that already...
> 
> -KP


I'd just like to know exactly how the CableCARD is configured to the 'motherboard' before removing mine. Right now the Black Bolt I have decided to use for the assembly is functioning with appropriate/low temps and only needs a subscription. When I'm done with a mount of my 'Lifetime/ALL-IN' Bolt I have a new (EC-UEIS7) Enclosure with correct 'slim SATA' that will enter through the bottom using a 9/16" grommet and likely a 50mm fan attached to the HDD caddy blowing down/out. This would have no visible hacks of the Bolt case and only a 30 - 50cm long cable.

Mounting the Bolt CableCARD motherboard using standoffs might create an issue inserting CableCARD. For me inserting the CableCARD then attaching to chassis using standoffs likely isn't an issue but I'd like to be able to anticipate the issue in advance. Snapshots of a CableCARD 'motherboard' - both top and bottom I believe answers that.

One last question - If I were to activate this Bolt with an annual plan when I sold it, DOES balance of the annual subscription go with the Bolt? I don't speak so I can't call & debate Tivo CSR and in CHAT they just say 'must call'.

TIA - Motherboard w/CableCARD snapshots!


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## Idol (Sep 23, 2010)

WVZR1 said:


> I'd just like to know exactly how the CableCARD is configured to the 'motherboard' before removing mine. Right now the Black Bolt I have decided to use for the assembly is functioning with appropriate/low temps and only needs a subscription. When I'm done with a mount of my 'Lifetime/ALL-IN' Bolt I have a new (EC-UEIS7) Enclosure with correct 'slim SATA' that will enter through the bottom using a 9/16" grommet and likely a 50mm fan attached to the HDD caddy blowing down/out. This would have no visible hacks of the Bolt case and only a 30 - 50cm long cable.
> 
> Mounting the Bolt CableCARD motherboard using standoffs might create an issue inserting CableCARD. For me inserting the CableCARD then attaching to chassis using standoffs likely isn't an issue but I'd like to be able to anticipate the issue in advance. Snapshots of a CableCARD 'motherboard' - both top and bottom I believe answers that.
> 
> ...


Here is a picture of the cable card interface to the main board on my eBay test Bolt. Its a multi pin plug similar to an old ATA cable. The cable card bracket is shown above the interfaces and flipped over so you can see the pins. Four screws hold the bracket into the board. There isn't much to see on the top of the main board, but if you want a picture let me know and I'll get you one. I can also completely remove the case if you want to see the bottom of the main board around the cable card.


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## WVZR1 (Jul 31, 2008)

Idol said:


> Here is a picture of the cable card interface to the main board on my eBay test Bolt. Its a multi pin plug similar to an old ATA cable. The cable card bracket is shown above the interfaces and flipped over so you can see the pins. Four screws hold the bracket into the board. There isn't much to see on the top of the main board, but if you want a picture let me know and I'll get you one. I can also completely remove the case if you want to see the bottom of the main board around the cable card.]


I'd certainly like to have snapshots of a separated motherboard from the case bottom. This snapshot just posted is what I expected but if you don't mind it would be great. I'm trying to decide whether 'standoffs' or maybe just using the HIDEit would work better. i actually have the HDR 212 out of the closet and I'll likely empty it tomorrow or Sunday.

There's certainly a good bit of space, it's 3 inches deeper(front to rear) than my Premieres and Roamios. I'll have a large power supply inside to power everything inside.

I appreciate what you've attached! Thanks!

The Bolt 'tray' just lifts from around the header where the card would make connection?

Does the 'break-out board' seem to make sense and using maybe 16AWG or 18AWG fine stranded wire from the lugs to all of the components for power?

I watched the video of the enclosure modification that @weaknees does for the Bolt. They deliver a new small cover with a rectangular slot for their cable to pass through.

TiVo Superstore | Upgraded TiVo DVRs, Remotes, Parts, Repairs

I had only seen the Edge video before today. Mine won't be visible at all. Imagine a 50mm fan blowing down and out attached to that HDD Caddy and powered from the External Drive housing.


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## Idol (Sep 23, 2010)

WVZR1 said:


> I'd certainly like to have snapshots of a separated motherboard from the case bottom. This snapshot just posted is what I expected but if you don't mind it would be great. I'm trying to decide whether 'standoffs' or maybe just using the HIDEit would work better. i actually have the HDR 112 out of the closet and I'll likely empty it tomorrow or Sunday.
> 
> There's certainly a good bit of space, it's 3 inches deeper(front to rear) than my Premieres and Roamios. I'll have a large power supply inside to power everything inside.
> 
> ...


The requested pictures are attached. I circled the 4 screw locations in red on the main board. The cable card bracket does lift off with gentle prying. You should be able to put a piece of plastic or some other insulator between the main board and the cable card brackets and then just screw it back on. The close up pictures show the header in detail. Note the last picture shows the height of the black header.

I'm not sure what break-out board you are talking about. The wires that run to the hard drive interface are not marked by gage, but are around 0.065" diameter. The wires that run to the antennas are 0.045" diameter.


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## WVZR1 (Jul 31, 2008)

Got it - Thanks for the snapshots!!

The black plastic retainers that the antenna wires are attached to are removed how? The first snapshot seems to show them hanging (black plastic) in a White Bolt. I assumed I could use some nylon washers to sub for 'tray thickness' when reattaching the CableCARD bracket. I hate to start just 'prying' without an ask. LOL

Break-out board' is in post #56 and that was intended to plug an ATX Cable into using either a PICOpsu that I've mentioned or using any ATX type power supply internally to power fans, HDD and actually power the Bolt.

I asked a custom PC builder in an email yesterday his thoughts and his comment sorta surprised me but I believe I understand after some thought. He mentioned that he though that 'breaker-board' would likely do well *'TO START'* the PSU. If you glance at it you'll see a Stand By indicator. I've changed my mind on a Power Supply for it I believe. I guess the 'breaker-board' SPOOFS maybe a motherboard. I ain't a PC guy. It was maybe just dumb luck.

The black antenna wire brackets are maybe supports for the motherboard and after removal/loosening of mother board they become 'hangers'?


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## Idol (Sep 23, 2010)

WVZR1 said:


> Got it - Thanks for the snapshots!!
> 
> The black plastic retainers that the antenna wires are attached to are removed how? The first snapshot seems to show them hanging (black olastic) in a White Bolt. I assumed I could use some nylon washers to sub for 'tray thickness' when reattaching the CableCARD bracket. I hate to start just 'prying' without an ask. LOL
> 
> ...


All of the items at the end of the black, grey and white wires are normally held on to the case or main board with adhesive foam strips. They are not supports. I had to pop them off to flip the main board over. The adhesive doesn't stick very well in this old Bolt and are easy to remove. Just so you know, there aren't any significant differences in the internal parts of a black Bolt vs. a white one.

Nylon washer would work well as a standoff for the cable card.


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## WVZR1 (Jul 31, 2008)

Idol said:


> All of the items at the end of the black, grey and white wires are normally held on to the case or main board with adhesive foam strips. They are not supports. I had to pop them off to flip the main board over. The adhesive doesn't stick very well in this old Bolt and are easy to remove. Just so you know, there aren't any significant differences in the internal parts of a black Bolt vs. a white one.
> 
> Nylon washer would work well as a standoff for the cable card.


SERB (Single Edge Razor Blade) separated the antenna wires. I've a couple snapshots of the HDR 212 for later. In the CableCARD slot there's this 'green thingy'. What is it? I posted 2 images, 1st is the one I'm using for HDR212 assembly and the other is a Bolt that I just removed the cover on.


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## WVZR1 (Jul 31, 2008)

These snapshots are the rear (OOTC 'out of the closet'), front bezel (OOTC), innards original cabinet, Bolt (dropped in for visual), Bolt on a 45mm block in empty cabinet, Bezel w/IR lens, indicator lenses(2). I'll have a HIDEit first of the week and see how that might aid mounting. I believe I can use 'Light Pipes' (a friend's description for fiber optics) to move indicators to the HDR212 Bezel. I don't know if the 2 lenses might polish or maybe I substitute, they appear white in the snapshot but when I powered the HDR212 yesterday the IR responses were quite visible, as bright as a Bolt through the translucent case.
I need to add a C14 outlet for the new 'power supply, add a panel mount for HDMI, RJ45 and a 'barrel connector' for tuner. I'll likely use short cables from Bolt 'motherboard' header to the new connections on cabinet. I haven't found a HDMI 2.0 panel mount yet.
I believe I can suspend a fan over the 'motherboard' to blow down onto the 'heat-sink'.


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## bbesta (Mar 6, 2021)

I'm thinking about designing a 3-d printable case for the tivo bolt that would house a 3.5" hard drive and a larger quieter fan. But before going through the effort I'd like to know if the power supply on the bolt circuit board can support a 3.5" hard drive long term. I've looked through many of the community threads and have yet to locate any info on plugging in a 3.5" hard drive into the circuit board molex power connector. I know it can be done but will it shorten the life expectancy of the power supply built into the circuit board? Once the tivo is turned on the drive will continue to spin until the tivo is turned off, it's the initial turn on power demand that is of concern. What's the turn on power demand of a 3.5" hard drive vs a 2.5" hard drive? Bigger disk will require more energy to get spinning.


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## PSU_Sudzi (Jun 4, 2015)

bbesta said:


> I'm thinking about designing a 3-d printable case for the tivo bolt that would house a 3.5" hard drive and a larger quieter fan. But before going through the effort I'd like to know if the power supply on the bolt circuit board can support a 3.5" hard drive long term. I've looked through many of the community threads and have yet to locate any info on plugging in a 3.5" hard drive into the circuit board molex power connector. I know it can be done but will it shorten the life expectancy of the power supply built into the circuit board? Once the tivo is turned on the drive will continue to spin until the tivo is turned off, it's the initial turn on power demand that is of concern. What's the turn on power demand of a 3.5" hard drive vs a 2.5" hard drive? Bigger disk will require more energy to get spinning.


It's been so long since I tried to do it but can't you look at the specs of the power supply and the same on the hard drive to see if it has the power by wattage?


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## bbesta (Mar 6, 2021)

Thanks for pointing out the power adapter specs. I hadn't considered the power adapter itself, I was more concerned with the 5 volts created by a power supply on the circuit board itself. That said, I've discovered that the 2.5" hard drive only run on 5V. A 3.5" hard drive uses both 5V and 12V, 5V for logic and 12V for the motor. The power adapter will handle the extra 12V current demand no problem and the 5V current demand should drop when a 3.5" drive is attached.


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## Endymion_ (Sep 9, 2011)

Well this is as good a place as any to put these.













































No, not finished yet, but pretty close.


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## shwru980r (Jun 22, 2008)

bbesta said:


> Thanks for pointing out the power adapter specs. I hadn't considered the power adapter itself, I was more concerned with the 5 volts created by a power supply on the circuit board itself. That said, I've discovered that the 2.5" hard drive only run on 5V. A 3.5" hard drive uses both 5V and 12V, 5V for logic and 12V for the motor. The power adapter will handle the extra 12V current demand no problem and the 5V current demand should drop when a 3.5" drive is attached.


The posts for using an external drive with a Bolt state to use the power supply from the external hard drive enclosure, so I think the Bolt power supply might be insufficient to power a 3.5" drive.


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## WVZR1 (Jul 31, 2008)

My power supply and ATX has shipped and I'd like to think by end of week I'll be doing something. I'd seriously doubt there's a 'wall-wort' that could likely handle power required for HDD, the Tivo and fans. I believe the correct approach is 'ADD' no additional requirements to the Bolt mother-board. My intention is to leave the original fan 'as is' - the Bolt is likely looking for it so there's no need to change things.


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